6 replies to this topic

[zeroasylum]

Ok my shell is arriving next Tuesday and after sealing it I am going to put dinitrol stone chip protection on the bottom and all under the arches. I assume I can put this straight on the body medal with no underoat. Going to be putting 5 -6 coats on. It dries to a thick hard plastic like finish. Any advice welcome on the rest of the prep fr the shell. Also in other peoples reshelling experience how well do things like subframes etc fit.

Thanks

Zeroasylum

[panelbeaterpeter]

I assume the shell will be primed underneath? if so, I'd rub it down with 320 paper, dusting etch over any bare metal areas. Then I'd apply a good rust preventative primer, and then the stonechip. Do a test on a scarp bit of metal to make sure the products work together, sometimes stonechip can have a bit of a "chemical beef" with some primers, and it could crack. If you apply the stonechip in several thin coats allowing each to dry, it should be fine. As for the rest of the shell, I'd use 500 on a DA, using red scotchbrite in any corners, hard to reach bits, then as above, apply etch primer to any areas you may have gone through, then it would be up to you whether you primed it or not before topcoat, It would be a good idea, especially on the outside, for corrosion protection.

[jack_marshall]

Having been sent a few BMH shells brand new at work for prep and paint...

Dont assume theyre ready to rub down and paint!

Theres little dings and wobbles and un-even panel gaps and very little seam sealer on them.

From what I remember, 2 of us spent a good day sorting out all these little niggles before they were good to re-prime and paint... Although you could just spot prime the little bits and just paint the shell in its production primer.

Quick edit... just thought, being a mini, might be a good idea to pop the seam covers off and paint these separate for more rustio protectio!

Edited by jack_marshall, 21 February 2008 - 07:20 PM.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Yeah completely agree. Most panels that come from manufacturers have some kind of dings or damage of some kind! Had to send back 4 bonnets for a Fiat until we got one that wasn't damaged!

[zeroasylum]

I assume the shell will be primed underneath? if so, I'd rub it down with 320 paper, dusting etch over any bare metal areas. Then I'd apply a good rust preventative primer, and then the stonechip. Do a test on a scarp bit of metal to make sure the products work together, sometimes stonechip can have a bit of a "chemical beef" with some primers, and it could crack. If you apply the stonechip in several thin coats allowing each to dry, it should be fine. As for the rest of the shell, I'd use 500 on a DA, using red scotchbrite in any corners, hard to reach bits, then as above, apply etch primer to any areas you may have gone through, then it would be up to you whether you primed it or not before topcoat, It would be a good idea, especially on the outside, for corrosion protection.

What primer would you recommend and can I brush paint the underneath. i Assume it will come with the primer after the dip process. However would the dinitrol not be mor effective straight on top of that.

Thanks

Zeroasylum

[panelbeaterpeter]

Any 2K primer, I personally like lechler green Ti, but whatever. The only reason I say prime it before stonechip is extra corrosion resistance. You could brush the underneath, it's just not as neat, would take longer, and would be a bit messy. Plus with a gun you can spray it right into crooks and nannies. Also brushing on etch primer isn't ideal, although no reason why it wouldn't work, just ask whoever you buy it off that it's possible, I think David's do a brushable one.

[Sam Walters]

ive had the dings in the panel problem, had it on a whole rear end!