12 replies to this topic

[jonbrothwell]

Hi there,
Sorry if this question has been asked before but I couldn't find any answers doing a search. I need to replace both inner and outer sills and also the rear valance (and patch the back of the boot floor). Does it make much of a difference if I use original panels or will pattern parts be fine? Also I see some companies sell combined inner and outer sills - do these make life easier or is it going to cause problems if I chop out the inner and outer sills at the same time -ie the car might get a bit floppy!! Any help or advice will be appreciated, many thanks, Jon

[panelbeaterpeter]

I would always choose genuine panels, the fit is so much better. Often non genuine panels are actually thicker metal, but don't fit so well. I would also buy the inner and outer sills separately.

[midridge2]

you cannot buy original inner sills, inner sills are a one piece pressing that includes the complete floor from front to back and side to side.
you can buy copy inner sill repair panel.
never cut out the floor and inner sill and outer sill as the frame can twist, leave the outer sill or inner sill/floor in place while you replace one at a time.

[jack_marshall]

never cut out the floor and inner sill and outer sill as the frame can twist, leave the outer sill or inner sill/floor in place while you replace one at a time.

Ooops!



LOL!

[GiroUnit]

[midridge2]

did the frame twist????

[jonbrothwell]

Hi, thanks for the advice. From what you've said I guess it's possible to buy original outer sills and rear valance? Also I need to repair/replace the back edge of the boot floor, so I guess it makes sense to do that at the same time I do the rear valance. Is the boot floor, rear valance and back of the body all spot welded at the same place ie the rear seam bit by the bumper? So if I drill out the spot welds will all three hopefully come apart? Sorry for my lack of technical terminology and knowledge but I'm on a bit of learning curve!!
Many thanks, Jon

[panelbeaterpeter]

Yeah the rear panel, boot floor and rear valance are all spot welded together to form the bumper seam. Obviously you'll need to drill out the spot welds around the corners and down the inner edge of the corner panels on the valance, and cut the boot floor out as far as necessary.

[jayare]

Yes - that about covers it - the rear bumper mount seam has the rear panel, boot floor and rear valence all sandwiched together, but due to how the shells were put together there will be one set of spot welds between the boot floor and rear valence and another set that holds the rear panel on - if you look at this video http://www.youtube.c...feature=related at about 2:30 in, you'll see the floor sub-assembly with the rear valence already attached, and the rear panel being attached about 40 seconds later.

It is possible to replace the inner & outer sills in one lot, as long as you brace the shell with steel box or angle before cutting the panels away to make sure it doesn't move when you do so - we did this to my Dad's Cooper last year when we replaced the whole of the N/S floor, inner and outer sill, jacking point, etc. in one hit using the heritage half floor assembly. Once that was in, we had to cut the doorstep out and replace that too.

JR

[jack_marshall]

did the frame twist????

Yes, it just crumpled in the middle into a big 'V' shape.

Lol.

No, its fine, Ive been driving it for 18 months now.

Your just paranoid, like most folk.

[midridge2]

no, not paranoid.
seen to many minis were people have cut out the floor like yours and even before fitting the replacement panels when you try to close the door it shows the frame has twisted.
depending on how rusted the rest of the shell is the body CAN twist.
i did a shell a few year back where the floor had been cut out like yours and new panels welded in and the floor around the handbrake area was in a v shape so we measured it doing a drop check and it was well out (the work had been done by some one else)
is it really worth taking the risk??

i have done many minis with what looks like minor accident damage and out of interest have put them on a jig and the shell has twisted.

[lrostoke]

Just to add to the genuine v pattern argument

I've rebuilt 2 minis in the last 18 month and the only genuine panel we used was the boot hinge repair section (below the rear lights), you can't get a pattern panel for that bit.

So thats

4 wings
4 a panels
2 door skins
4 outer sills
2 inner sills
2 corner repair sections scuttle
2 full rear qtrs
1 boot repair section
4 flitch panel repair sections


out of all those the only ones we had to make fit were the scuttle repair sections, everything else went on a treat and all pattern at a fraction of the cost of genuine.

[jonbrothwell]

Hi again, Just bought some replacement panels from a local garage. They're all pattern panels so hopefully they should be ok to fit - I'll keep you posted on how things go. The replacement outer sills don't have any drain holes in them- how necessary are the drain holes and if I should make some, where should I drill/grind some into the sills? Also what are your opinions on the best rust prevention on the new sills before/after welding etc. aside from getting rid of all the old rust first? And what's the best stuff to paint the inside of the rear valance and under the boot floor with?
Thanks for the advice, Jon