Stripped Out Look.
#1
Posted 17 March 2008 - 05:46 PM
#2
Posted 17 March 2008 - 05:50 PM
#3
Posted 17 March 2008 - 05:59 PM
grind the welds flat? use a decent welder to do decent "runs" if it is naff welding, seam sealers quite good
Well im not actually doing thw welding.... someone else is and iv never used him so i dont no what to expect really, i mentioned it to him about wanting it to look tidy and he said grinding the welds flat would take all of the strengh out of it? Dont wna get it back and then me butcher it and have to have it redone
#4
Posted 17 March 2008 - 06:04 PM
#5
Posted 17 March 2008 - 06:25 PM
what a load of bolox!! thats untrue if its been welded corrently, u went the parent materials(floor and repare panel) and not the surfaces and such grinding down shouldnt matter if adiquate penitration has been made
Ok he said something about overlapping and welding the top and the bottom? do you think i will be able to get a good enough finish by grinding and filling then?
#6
Posted 17 March 2008 - 06:28 PM
If the person doing the welding isn't getting sufficient penetration, then he is correct. Grinding down the welds will reduce strength.
If he's getting sufficient penetration, then you should be able to completely grind the weld away and you should not be able to see any join, this is because the two surfaces have been melted together properly.
Take a look at the welding I did yesterday CLICK. I ground back the weld to leave an invisible repair. It does take time though.
Edited by edi57, 17 March 2008 - 06:30 PM.
#7
Posted 17 March 2008 - 07:40 PM
Phil
#8
Posted 17 March 2008 - 07:47 PM
If he has welded it correctly it shouldnt matter and if he is welding both sides like he says he is then it should be 100% no problem. If his welding is a load of pooh then yess if ya grind it down then it will be a problem.
Phil
I have a rough idea but..
When you change floor pans do you leave a lip from the old floor pan then place the new floor pan on-top of the lip then weld?
Or do you cut it all off and support the new floor pan to it then just weld round it?
The reason i am asking is im going to do this at the week end and want to do it correctly
#9
Posted 17 March 2008 - 07:54 PM
If he has welded it correctly it shouldnt matter and if he is welding both sides like he says he is then it should be 100% no problem. If his welding is a load of pooh then yess if ya grind it down then it will be a problem.
Phil
I have a rough idea but..
When you change floor pans do you leave a lip from the old floor pan then place the new floor pan on-top of the lip then weld?
Or do you cut it all off and support the new floor pan to it then just weld round it?
The reason i am asking is im going to do this at the week end and want to do it correctly
you can do it either way,i replaced my passenger floor using the over lap.but it was a right pain to weld up under the car.welding upside down isnt easy and all the sparks go in your ears,hair, neck ,im sure i must of looked like i was having a fit most of the time when the hot sparks ran down my sleeves and neck.
im doing the drivers side with the but join because u can weld it from inside the car and it will be much easier i think.
#10
Posted 17 March 2008 - 07:56 PM
#11
Posted 21 March 2008 - 10:00 AM
#12
Posted 21 March 2008 - 10:01 AM
With my current project 2ltr redtop i am going for stripped out look,cage,no carpets,roof lining etc,what i intend to do is get sum ally chequer plate cut and bent to match the floor pan,i already have some that im using in my other mini as floor mats.
ur so cheap xx
#13
Posted 22 March 2008 - 05:35 PM
With my current project 2ltr redtop i am going for stripped out look,cage,no carpets,roof lining etc,what i intend to do is get sum ally chequer plate cut and bent to match the floor pan,i already have some that im using in my other mini as floor mats.
ur so cheap xx
less of your cheek
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