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Painting, Cutting, Polishing Confusion


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#1 jimmerjammer

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 05:09 PM

Hi all

I have just read the pinned topics above on getting a top shine on new paintwork

However, i am a little confused

There is no mention of using laquer

So if i am using a colour that suggets using a laquer, when do i use the G3 etc to get the really good shine?

Would this be before applying the laquer or after?

Thanks

#2 jack_marshall

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 05:42 PM

You only really need to laquer metallics, as theyre a matt basecoat that needs a shiny top coat.

Non metallic 'flat' colours do not need laquer although you can chose to add it over the top if you really want.

Polishing should only be done once all the coats have applied and had a good 24 hours at least really to be flat back with 800-1500 grade paper, then machine polished with G3.

#3 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 05:42 PM

Cutting and polishing or "colour sanding" should only ever be done to the final stage of paint, eg; lacquer or solid colour. Never polish basecoat! it would react and the lacquer wouldn't stick. Basecoat is just the colour, it's got a matt finish and isn't hard wearing. You apply lacquer to give it depth and shine, and to give a hard durable finish.

#4 dave20046

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 05:58 PM

Cutting and polishing or "colour sanding" should only ever be done to the final stage of paint, eg; lacquer or solid colour. Never polish basecoat! it would react and the lacquer wouldn't stick. Basecoat is just the colour, it's got a matt finish and isn't hard wearing. You apply lacquer to give it depth and shine, and to give a hard durable finish.

So after you've done a base coat you wet and dry it then give it another coat and repeat? And then lacquer it? Some one on here said don't leave longer than 45 minutes after the final coat for laquering as you'll get lacquer peel - I thought you had to leave it over night then finely wet and dry it :thumbsup:

Edited by dave20046, 24 March 2008 - 05:59 PM.


#5 midridge2

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:55 PM

i thought with the waterbase paint if its also a solid colour you still had to laquer it.!

#6 In-a-mini

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 07:09 PM

waterbased paints are a base coat (two stage paint) that requires clear coating you can still have solvent based non metalic base coats too which also require being clear coated. Then pollishing is the same for clear or for solid

#7 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 07:37 PM

i thought with the waterbase paint if its also a solid colour you still had to laquer it.!


You can get basecoat in solid colours and metallics, but you can also legally get solid colours in fully compliant HS 2K, which are a high solid gloss and don't need lacquering, although you can do, which is handy when blending panels or just to give further protection. You can also get waterbase solid colours which require no lacquer, although I've never used them so couldn't comment. You should NEVER flat basecoat unless there is debris in it, and if you do you should re apply more basecoat over the flatted area before lacquering. If you flat basecoat and then lacquer it, the light reflects off the scratches and it looks terrible, especially with lighter colours. With new waterbase paint it's almost impossible to flat the basecoat at all without messing it up.

You should leave lacquer to tack off before applying another coat. This usually takes anything from 5 to 30 minutes depending on temperature. Tacking off basically means it goes sticky, touch an area on the masking and your finger should stick to it slightly. Obviously you shouldn't test it on the panel.

If you just read through this section or do a search all these things have been covered hundreds of times.

#8 jimmerjammer

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:04 PM

i thought with the waterbase paint if its also a solid colour you still had to laquer it.!


You can get basecoat in solid colours and metallics, but you can also legally get solid colours in fully compliant HS 2K, which are a high solid gloss and don't need lacquering, although you can do, which is handy when blending panels or just to give further protection. You can also get waterbase solid colours which require no lacquer, although I've never used them so couldn't comment. You should NEVER flat basecoat unless there is debris in it, and if you do you should re apply more basecoat over the flatted area before lacquering. If you flat basecoat and then lacquer it, the light reflects off the scratches and it looks terrible, especially with lighter colours. With new waterbase paint it's almost impossible to flat the basecoat at all without messing it up.

You should leave lacquer to tack off before applying another coat. This usually takes anything from 5 to 30 minutes depending on temperature. Tacking off basically means it goes sticky, touch an area on the masking and your finger should stick to it slightly. Obviously you shouldn't test it on the panel.

If you just read through this section or do a search all these things have been covered hundreds of times.


Thanks Pete

#9 midridge2

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 10:11 PM

pete do you know the name of this water based solid paint that does not need laquer as i am interested in this?

#10 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 10:20 PM

Sorry I don't know, although I can find out for you if you like. I would guess it varies depending on the manufacturer. You need a special heat lamp to dry it apparently, it can't be dried just with a conventional oven, so a rep told me. The rep is in on wednesdays, I'll ask about it then.




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