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Spraying At Home


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#1 Pauly

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 07:23 PM

Hi everyone,

Seeing as 2k is toxic im not too keen on spraying it in my garage, so whats the best non-toxic paint to use for good results, I know I wont get results like 2k but I would like it to be close.

Also what price would I be looking at to have a bare bodyshell and doors etc sprayed, the shell will be all preped and would just need primer and paint.

Thanks

Paul.

#2 sway

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 08:03 PM

I concur. 2K is best left alone unless you have quality air fed respiritory equipment.

If it were me, I'd be looking for cellulose. Strictly speaking I believe you shouldn't use it now unless you have an "official" restoration project registered with the local council, but in practice most places will still supply it.

As for having it sprayed professionally, I really wouldn't like to hazard a guess, though I suspect you wouldn't get any change from £600-£700 if you want a decent job.

#3 sway

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 08:05 PM

Just noticed that you are in Wolverhampton. I know that Jawel Paints will still supply cellulose. and they aren't too far from you in Smethwick

Jawel Paints



#4 Pauly

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 08:24 PM

Yeh... thanks mate I use jawels paints cant fault 'em.

I thought there was a new type of paint which replaced celly? I dont think its water based though, dont know if anyone could put any light on the subject??

Also whats the best way to prep the bodywork what grit wet & dry would be best??

Thanks.

Edited by Pauly, 13 April 2008 - 08:36 PM.


#5 jack_marshall

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 10:23 PM

Celly is pretty much gone now. Its all high solids colour and laquer and basecoat for metallics is waterbase.

If you can get hold of celly, that will be your safest option, but will need more love than harder lasting 2k.

As for a price, the only way you will really find out is to visit some local painters or give them a call.

Regarding bodywork prep, you'll find many guides on here, especially in the FAQ's that will give you the basic idea of how and what to do.

Regarding wet and dry, this doesn't really come into play until the shell is primed.

If your stripping paint from the shell you need to use 40 then 80 grit paper on a DA.

If your just keying the old paint for primer to stick too, then I suggest 320 on a DA and a red scotch brite for all the bits you cant get to with paper.

Any areas of filler ideally want to be bare metal, avoid filling on old paint.. this is likely to lead to sinkage in the new paint and make it look like a sore b*llock.

Edited by jack_marshall, 13 April 2008 - 10:24 PM.


#6 Pauly

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Posted 14 April 2008 - 08:41 AM

ahh ok. The colour im going for is a base colour anyway (henley blue).

If I was to spray 2k would full body protection the only thing I will need, or would I need extractors also??

I think I saw paint sprayers advertise saying £180 full respray self preped?? Surely thats not going to be a good job??

Edited by Pauly, 14 April 2008 - 09:22 AM.


#7 G.T.M.

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Posted 14 April 2008 - 09:20 AM

I'd go for solvent based 2k myself, as celly dousent last it fades after a short period, is difficult to work with, with regards to polishing and application celly has a nasty habit of popping and crazing.

In the industry until not long ago solvent basecoat was all we used, only recently has waterbased basecoat come in. If your bothered about health risks and whats in the paint your pretty screwed, painting a car is never going to be good for you (its one of those nasty health and safety filled jobs)

As for prep, do the area you intend to spray in 400 grit paper, if theres any filler to do, as said make sure that area is bare metal you can do that with 80 or w/e. Your primer will cover the 400 grit scratches easy.

#8 jack_marshall

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Posted 14 April 2008 - 09:23 AM

Definately agreed that painting anyway you decide to do it is harmful!

If you can afford it, let the proper folk do it.

Edited by jack_marshall, 14 April 2008 - 09:32 AM.


#9 Ashdesign

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Posted 15 April 2008 - 10:46 AM

Definately agreed that painting anyway you decide to do it is harmful!


A few simple measures will protect you!
[attachment=56249:06042008276.jpg]

#10 midridge2

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Posted 15 April 2008 - 11:21 AM

sorry to disagree but celly is a very good paint to use, it takes years for celly to fade and is easly brought back with t-cut etc.
i think a lot of people have never really worked with celly but just pass on duff info.
regards getting celly, there is many places still selling it, i just did a search and found loads, i bought 3litres a few weeks ago at a hell of a good price with dirt cheap p&p and it came next day from a paint supplier.








this is my opinion and will differ from others.

#11 jack_marshall

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Posted 15 April 2008 - 05:17 PM

I have worked with celly and you can get just as good results, but it is definately not as hard and lasting as 2k.

Celly is the way forward for a home painter >_<




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