32 replies to this topic

[wobblybob]

sorry more questions, when you buy a shell and an engine what would it count as on your insurance, kit car??

[Jammy]

Well you could easily achieve that with a slightly modified 1275, but then its more on insurance. To be honest, with power to weight ratio, even a tuned 998 will beat most of the 1.4 corsas and novas, altho they'll go back past ya at 60-70mph!

As everyone has said your gonna need to sort out brakes and suspension. If you can get an early 90s mini most of these came with 8.4" disc brakes as standard, and then just get some up-rated dampers and you should be sorted for everything except serious (120bhp+) power!

[Purple Tom]

Hmmm, i'm not sure on that one.

I don't think it would be a kit car though. Are you referring to a brand new shell or a restored shell?

If its brand new then I believe it would have to go through an SVA test and would usually be assigned with a 'Q' plate. Don't quote me on that though - one of the more experienced Minidocs will tell you for sure.

If its a restored shell, that was maybe originally registered as, say, a 1983 City, then it will always be a City on the logbook and registration. Whatever engine you put in or modifications you make will not make a difference to its classification, just insurance. Obviously you'd need to inform the DVLA of any changes to engine numbers/size, body colours etc.

Tom

[Jammy]

sorry more questions, when you buy a shell and an engine what would it count as on your insurance, kit car??

Not really, if you buy or change just a shell you get in the realms of either ringing the car (illegal) or Q plates and certain rules with the DVLA, depending on what you do.

If you buy a shell with a engine and then change to a different engine, I believe you just need to inform the DVLA or the different engine number and the capacity of the new engine.

[wobblybob]

r right ok cheers guys, helpfull in shooting me down :nugget: , nah only messin got a better understanding of what to get now, cheers :wink:

[Guess-Works.com]

Dont think anyones shooting you down, but there is this supposedly grey area when it comes to 'reshelling', basically unless you retain enough of the original vehicle you will require an SVA test, which will result in a "Q" plate, UNLESS you can prove that all the componenets in the vehicle ( including the shell ) are brand spankers new, in which case you will date a current plate, and not much change out of 10K.

Taking all that into consideration, a mini's a mini whether it has a Q plate or not, and also a car which has gone through an SVA is probably in better shape than a one which has been rebuilt and MOT'ed..

The best advice I can give you is to talk to an insurance broker and see what you may or maynot be able to get away with for what premium, and then use that as the guide to you mini, admittedly it may not be your ideal, but is will be a start.

ps, 1330's a solid engines !!

[nag1_uk]

19, no no claims bonus - first year of driving, 1425, uprated suspension, disc brakes, roll cage, non-standard dash. £1800 with mini world.

Just thought I would say, I am 21 first poilcy under my name so no no claims etc.

Car is a V modified pickup with a 1400 K series engine in her.
Fully comp, £6000 agreed value etc, only £600 ish :grin:

Thats with HIC so they might be worth a look.

the engine is only standard, but the car does 0-60 in just over 7 seconds so it can not be bad!

Mike

[Madmax]

as your 18 i'd go for a hot 1275 or a mild 1330, the best insurance to power ratio there is really

im 18 and im quoted £450 on a road/trackday 1275, deseamed with cage and recaro seats

thats with CIS by the way, oh and before on my 1275 clubby i was paying £128 a year on my dads insurance

[Oldskoolbaby]

Id personnaly go for a hot 998 as they are a bit of a hoot to play about with.
I had a 998 A-plus with a modded 12G295 head, stage 1 kit, MG cam, 3.44 diff, quickshift and it could easily play with the 1300s.

Also its nice when someone says "you must have something good under the bonnet" cause you just pasted their 2ltr shed. Then you say " yeah, its a 1ltr 40 year old engine alrite"lol :grin: Trust me, they go even redder

Im buiding up a 1400 and im 19 but my biggest concern in terms of driving it is fuel consumption and general maintanance. For obvious reasons more power=more wear and tear hence youll start spending on stronger parts as I have and then it starts to get pricey with out realising. I recon you should go for something mild that will start every day, be relativly civilised around town and wont break your wallet ever time you go to the local Shell garage.

Most inportantly at your age is STICK TO YOUR BUDGET or else there may be another unfinished project on EBay

[miniman5]

well, originaly teh stage one kit was designed for the 998, i have a funny feeling there is now a 1275 stage one kit avalible bot sure though. if your after about 80 bhp then i would recoment

1293 or 1380

kent cam

roller rockers

performance air filter (K&N or piper cross are the best)

bigger carb needle or bigger carb. i read in minimag that some twin carbs if set up right can be just as good as a webber! so might be an idea to get some big twin carbs and even bigger needles in them!


with this i would guess at about 90 maybe 100 bhp and it would still be very reliable. i would recomend you use a carb mini, not spi or mpi as the tuning will be thrown right out if you go for a bigger bore etc... once youve fitted al lthe bits get it on a rollign road and get it realy well tuned!

also it might be an idea to go for an electronic ignition so theres no distributor! anyt one here got one?

[Jordie]

the best engine is......


ONE THAT WORKS


and maybe doesnt leak oil.

[Jammy]

...then i would recoment

1293 or 1380

Why would you recommend just these tho engine sizes? A 1275 or anything above will be well capable of achieving 80bhp and still be reliable! In fact any size engine that is kept well mantained will be just as reliable as any modern car.

[miniman5]

thats a dam good point actualy, i think the 1275 had 60 or 65 bhp to start with! sowith what i said above youle have well over 100 bhp

[Madmax]

no no noooo not entirely so

ive seen 1380's with more than what youve specified and they only reach about 90bhp at the fly

it depends on how the engines built, how its run in, and how its driven afterwards

performance parts dont make up for the entire final power produced

[TimS]

i started at 17 with a 1275 with a stg3 head roller tip rockers and electrronic igntition at that produced 74bhp ish depending on the day which was more than enough power. Now im going to be turning 19 and im buuilding something a little quicker as iv got a bit more driving experience and knowlege. a morspeed 1330. 1330 is ideal ad its a std engeers over bore sizes which means it wont effect your insurance but will give a little more torque. over bore to 1380 and you will be charged more thoes 50cc's.

The most important thing iv found is to have a well built engine(and a central oil pickup pipe) for £2500 you could build youself and engine and strat to get a mini looking tidy, thats if you have it already?