How To Achieve Complete Rust Removal
Started by
DaveRob
, May 04 2008 08:24 AM
17 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 May 2008 - 08:24 AM
Has anyone seen this clip......
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
This is great for treating all those suspesion arms, hubs etc
if you google electrolytic rust removal and read up...... I tried it...... fantastic results
Think about all the posibilities on a MINI..... their is even a guy did a complete trailer frame.... if you tank is big enough you can do anything, apparently.............
As always DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH......... and most inportant conect the charger the right way round or you just make more rust...........
Mods.... I didnt know where to put this... feel free to relocate .......
DaveRob
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
This is great for treating all those suspesion arms, hubs etc
if you google electrolytic rust removal and read up...... I tried it...... fantastic results
Think about all the posibilities on a MINI..... their is even a guy did a complete trailer frame.... if you tank is big enough you can do anything, apparently.............
As always DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH......... and most inportant conect the charger the right way round or you just make more rust...........
Mods.... I didnt know where to put this... feel free to relocate .......
DaveRob
#2
Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:34 PM
Nice find there DaveRob, might have to try this on a few on my items which need to be free of rust for my rebuild, might be worth doing all the nuts and bolts and things like that.
Whats the black coating left behind like does anyone know?Is it like a powder which will wash off?
Whats the black coating left behind like does anyone know?Is it like a powder which will wash off?
#3
Posted 05 May 2008 - 07:43 AM
I'm guessing that the black stuff left behind is neutralised rust, just like as with rust eater products.
I think the idea is just to leave it there and paint over it.
I could be wrong though...other opinions appreciated!
I think the idea is just to leave it there and paint over it.
I could be wrong though...other opinions appreciated!
#4
Posted 05 May 2008 - 08:18 AM
The material left behind follows this quotation from someone far more qualified than me
"The ferric iron atoms in the rust begin to reduce to ferrous oxide, which initially results in a mixture of ferric and ferrous oxides. This combination is called magnetite and is often written as Fe3O4. Eventually, all the ferric oxide becomes ferrous iron. Under less powerful reducing conditions the product would be ferrous carbonate or ferrous hydroxide. However, under the extreme conditions of reduction powered by a 12 V battery charger, they found that ferrous iron can be reduced all the way to iron metal. So, based on this work, when we see the rust slowly turning black, we are seeing the formation of Fe3O4 which is black and eventually iron metal, which is also black. Finely divided iron is black, not shiny like a solid chunk of iron."
I interprete this as back to something approaching its original material..... its a really easy thing to set up..... I thried it with a plastic beaker, the rusty alternator bracket off my mini and 2 strips of steel I had around ( for the anode).....
Rob
"The ferric iron atoms in the rust begin to reduce to ferrous oxide, which initially results in a mixture of ferric and ferrous oxides. This combination is called magnetite and is often written as Fe3O4. Eventually, all the ferric oxide becomes ferrous iron. Under less powerful reducing conditions the product would be ferrous carbonate or ferrous hydroxide. However, under the extreme conditions of reduction powered by a 12 V battery charger, they found that ferrous iron can be reduced all the way to iron metal. So, based on this work, when we see the rust slowly turning black, we are seeing the formation of Fe3O4 which is black and eventually iron metal, which is also black. Finely divided iron is black, not shiny like a solid chunk of iron."
I interprete this as back to something approaching its original material..... its a really easy thing to set up..... I thried it with a plastic beaker, the rusty alternator bracket off my mini and 2 strips of steel I had around ( for the anode).....
Rob
#5
Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:15 AM
I've read about this before but never seen it demonstrated quite so well. Good find sir!
What did you use for the "washing Soda" shen you tested it? The sound on the clip is quite low and I have bad hearing! Also I don't speak American!! LOL
What did you use for the "washing Soda" shen you tested it? The sound on the clip is quite low and I have bad hearing! Also I don't speak American!! LOL
#6
Posted 05 May 2008 - 02:20 PM
Baking soda.
#7
Posted 06 May 2008 - 12:15 PM
More info on this thread
As they mention on there, steer clear of using stainless!
Been meaning to try this for the radius arms and hubs, when I get to that point!
As they mention on there, steer clear of using stainless!
Been meaning to try this for the radius arms and hubs, when I get to that point!
#8
Posted 10 May 2008 - 12:40 AM
That's quality... anyone got a swiming pool I can park in for a few days?
Would love to see some before/afters of anyone on here that's tried it?
Would love to see some before/afters of anyone on here that's tried it?
#9
Posted 12 May 2008 - 01:52 PM
i'll add some pictures soon, i have a front hub in my tank right now
#10
Posted 12 May 2008 - 01:58 PM
So after you have done do you remove the leftover stuff and paint or do you paint straight over this?
#11
Posted 13 May 2008 - 09:45 AM
some pics
before
after (and a light wire brush/wd40 to remove the black stuff)
i need a better setup, at the mo i only have one anode at one end so the object needs to be rotated during the process, i am going to add some more steel plate
around the perimeter of the tank for better/faster results
i always clean it and then (depending on the part) etch/spray it.
before
after (and a light wire brush/wd40 to remove the black stuff)
i need a better setup, at the mo i only have one anode at one end so the object needs to be rotated during the process, i am going to add some more steel plate
around the perimeter of the tank for better/faster results
i always clean it and then (depending on the part) etch/spray it.
Edited by mr_apples, 13 May 2008 - 09:50 AM.
#12
Posted 13 May 2008 - 10:18 AM
Mr Apples that looks great, could you possibly put some pics of your setup on here too?
very cool!
very cool!
#13
Posted 13 May 2008 - 07:52 PM
So the more anodes placed round the tank the better I suppose?
Wired in series?
How long did you leave your hubs in the tank to achieve the results shown?
Wired in series?
How long did you leave your hubs in the tank to achieve the results shown?
#14
Posted 13 May 2008 - 09:04 PM
That looks great!!
#15
Posted 13 May 2008 - 10:41 PM
seems a faf to set up. but if i could leave it set up permanantly....
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