41 replies to this topic

[T.Harper]

And that would make the bang sound inside the carb and cause it to smoke?

if it's sparking when the inlet valve's open, mixture will be burnt right up into the manifold and carb - smokey time!

[T.Harper]

sort your fuel tank issues first, (new pipe) then syphon or 998Dave method so the fuel pump is receiving fuel, and make sure it is delivering it to the carb. Then sort out timing issues - (may need to check rotor arm position and have rocker cover off).

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

The carb was getting petrol (immediately when the bang and smoke problem began) and was even spurting petrol out of the pipe before I connected it up so I think the fuel pump is ok even though I never actually located it.

It's scary to see smoke coming out of the carb so I think I'm gonna need help from the locals to finally get it going

Gonna sort out the tank tomorrow weather allowing or not - a bit of rain never hurt anyone!

[mk1leg]

It sounds as your timming is out....this is what you have to do .....
1.....remove rocker cover and put it in 1st gear remove spark plugs and roll forward untill nos 1-2 valves at rad end are rocking this means your on a firing stroke .............
2.......remove dizzy cap and put a dot of white paint oppisite rotor arm, replace cap andslaken dizzy clamp bolt and turn dizzy intill no 1 lead is oppisite white dot......
3.........now retighten dizzy clamp and check lead order 1-3-4-2 in anticlockwise order.....
4...........replace rocker cover and spark plugs and you should be ready to start engine this is a an approx timing as you will need to use a strobe light to set it right.................
good luck.....................

Edited by mk1leg, 06 August 2008 - 10:25 PM.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

It sounds as your timming is out....this is what you have to do .....
1.....remove rocker cover and put it in 1st gear remove spark plugs and roll forward untill nos 1-2 valves at rad end are rocking this means your on a firing stroke .............
2.......remove dizzy cap and put a dot of white paint oppisite rotor arm, replace cap andslaken dizzy clamp bolt and turn dizzy intill no 1 lead is oppisite white dot......
3.........now retighten dizzy clamp and check lead order 1-3-4-2 in anticlockwise order.....
4...........replace rocker cover and spark plugs and you should be ready to start engine this is a an approx timing as you will need to use a strobe light to set it right.................
good luck.....................

Thankyou for that quick guide, I also had a member from SWM's give me a severely overly detailed guide via MSN last night.

I got the crankshaft pulley notch to line up with the largest of the spikey things on the timing chain cover, found TDC and then made sure there was no play in the tappets at cylinder 1 and a little play in those at cylinder 4. The guy who has been helping me via MSN is in work right now and I've run into a problem that we didnt discuss. I took the dizzy cap off and found the rotor arm pointing straight up to the sky, just slightly passed where lead 1 connects to the dizzy cap. If I do what you suggested, mark the dizzy casing opposite the rotor arm, put the cap back on and turn the dizzy so that lead 1 is next to the mark on the dizzy casing that should be enough to start it?

I'm taking it up the garage to have it tuned and timed as soon as its running well enough to drive.

Edited by MiNi2iNFiNiTi, 07 August 2008 - 02:00 PM.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

Just tried to start it again, turned the dizzy so the rotor arm was at plug 1. I've got fuel at the carb in pipe and a spark from the ht leads but it still wont go.

The spark is yellow, should it be more of a blue colour? And wouldnt crack like it used to on my 998 until I put some tin foil in the end., so im guessing the spark isnt that strong. I've got a brand new 12v coil.

Edited by MiNi2iNFiNiTi, 07 August 2008 - 04:23 PM.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

Anyone?

[Pauly]

no play in the tappets at cylinder 1 and a little play in those at cylinder 4.

.

The tappets should be loose on cylinder one (valves shut) if you have set them with the tappets tight (valves open) then the timing would be 180 degress out.

Paul.

[mk1leg]

Have you checked leads on cap are 1-3-4-2 anticlockwise...................

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

no play in the tappets at cylinder 1 and a little play in those at cylinder 4.

.

The tappets should be loose on cylinder one (valves shut) if you have set them with the tappets tight (valves open) then the timing would be 180 degress out.

Paul.

I lined up the little notch in the pulley to the largest of the spikes on the timing chain cover and this is how things are :



The rotor arm is in this position :


So I have rotated the dizzy to this position :



Yes I have doubley tripley checked the leads are in the right place on the dizzy cap.

[T.Harper]

If there's no movement at that position, and from the photo, it looks like, the cam is on the overlap period, ie when the exhaust is shutting and the inlet is opening at cylinder number 1 (nearest the rad, the one you've written 'no movement' on). If this is true, then it's quite right that it's at TDC, but at a point where the induction stroke is about to take place.

I'm going by what I see here, but if you move all the leads around two places with the dizzy at its current setting, you may get it to fire. So put #4 lead where #1 was, 2 where 3 was, 1 where 4 was and 3 where 2 was. Doubly check after you've done this that the rotor arm will fire in 1-3-4-2 still to make sure you've done it right.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

Should I turn the dizzy back around so that the vacuum thing is horizontal again (at the top) before or after trying the lead swap?

[T.Harper]

there is no right or wrong orientation of the dizzy, - it's turned to adjust, just as long as no wires are under excess tightness or nothing's fouling. If this is the case then you could try turning the dizzy 180 degrees so that #4 is where #1 is now which would have the same effect as taking off wires and removing them as I mentioned before.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

I will try turning it a few degrees to the left then to the right, if it still wont start I'll take the wires off and turn it around 180' connect them back up and do the same again.

[T.Harper]

just make sure you connect the wires up 180 degrees round too otherwise you won't have achieved anything by turning the dizzy round. (Remember that to rotor arm doesn't move when you turn it, you are effectively moving the position of the wires).