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Wide Ratio Gearbox And 1380 Engine Build


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#1 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 10:58 PM

I have NOT done this before but im going to give it a go. Do NOT take this info as the diffinitive guide because it isnt. Just me and a desire to have a go. Will post pictures with every step and will let you know if it works..

So we start with a stripped out and chemicaly cleaned box.

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By the way all the bits are standard and in no way modified.. I just like taking things apart and rebuilding them..

These bits are the selectors and shafts. In the order I removed them. When putting back in work from top to bottom

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Will post next bit next weekend..

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 27 February 2011 - 04:13 PM.


#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 07:12 AM

This'll be interesting, go for it, and if you need any tips/pointers don't be afraid to ask !

One thing I have noticed, if you haven't already, remove the old gaskets from the case first ( you still have the one for the oil feed attached on the inside ) if you leave this to the end you end up with bits of gasket in the bottom of your gearbox.

#3 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 10:46 AM

Thanks Guess-works Ill start again with the gasket removed. Just so every one knows im not tightening stuff up on this build for exactly the reason guess-works says. I am not going to use this box after the build but am just having a go before attempting to build a (special box) for my 1380 project.

This one.

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I will start a new thread on that build once the block and head come back from the workshops.

Glad you are watching this Guess-works because im gonna need some bits.

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 01 August 2011 - 03:41 PM.


#4 evansisgreat

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 01:18 PM

Good luck with this, I'll be watching with interest, but not enough bravery to do it.

Mini world had a 3 part feature on a gearbox rebuild a few months ago which may be of some use to you if you've not got it already.

#5 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 04:21 PM

Here we go then..
I have cleaned the gasket off now so can start again.
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The selector shafts.
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One insde the other.
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Once the shafts are in the box i started building up the selector forks. the bottom one is for the reverse gear and should engage with the key at the end of the shaft.
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Then I built up the other selector forks in the order shown before.
once done you should be able to move the shaft in and out and see the forks moving you can twist the shaft to engage the individual forks.
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The next bit is to insert the sleave, spring and ball bearing. these bits stop the shaft from moving more than is required when engaging the gears. also provide the positive feel of the engagement when selecting. These bits will fall out of there housing as you move the box about so i just put a bit of masking tape over to hold them in.
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Dont really know what the proper name of these bits are but I am calling them the selectors.
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The shaft goes in from this end and its important to put the end with the hole in first. Place the first selector on the shaft and make sure the groove at the bottom engages with the selector fork.
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Then place the last selector on and line up the hole with the hole in the shaft. It also needs to engage with the selector fork.
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Once its all lined up insert the roll pin through the selector and shaft, its a tight fit!!
I have been cleaning each part as I am fitting them with a good quality degreaser. the bits might look clean but its amazing how much dirt you remove.
Then a bit of oil and in the bits go.
Thats it for this week.

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 01 August 2011 - 03:42 PM.


#6 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 05:17 PM

Another day at work!! Mondays Eh, Never mind only 4 more days till the weekend.. Oh if any ones interested this is where the gearbox came from.
Posted Image
It didnt look to bad when i bought it, paid £250 eight years ago.
Started to strip it down thinking it was gonna be a quick restoration. OHHHH BOY was i wrong.
Posted Image
Oh time for tea.
Back with more later......

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Edited by AndyMiniMad., 01 August 2011 - 03:52 PM.


#7 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 06:01 PM

Any way back to the box. These bits are next.
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Reverse idler gear and shaft.
When installing the idler make sure the peg on the selector engages in the deep slot in the gear.
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Im going to build this shaft next, I think its going to be quite fiddely to get the springs and pegs to locate on this bit, well it was a (female dog) to take apart.
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Any one know what its called?? something motion shaft, or lay shaft??

Im off to watch the footy now. Will post more pictures tomorrow.

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 01 August 2011 - 03:53 PM.


#8 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 12:51 PM

Back to the gear box build today, I placed the fine roller bearing on the shaft and then the 3rd gear over the bearing as shown here.
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I should say that its important that all the bits are totally clean. Any grit or dirt in the bearings at this stage could cause an expensive failure.
Next its time for the spring and retaining pin. You might find it easyer to put the spring and pin into the shaft before sliding 3rd gear onto the bearing.
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Then I slid the retaining ring down and lined up the groove on the ring with the pin. I used a very small bladed screwdriver to push the pin into the shaft which then allowed the retaining ring to slide fully home. Once its down as far as it can go simply turn it untill you here the click of the pin locking it into place.
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Now its time for 2nd gear, all these bits go on from the other end of the shaft. So fine needle bearing first then the spring in the hole with the two pins on the ends of the spring. Notice the hole goes right through the shaft at this gear.
Next slide 2nd gear on to the shaft and over the pins, I found it quite fiddly to hold the shaft and squish the pins in far enough to slide the gear over. Would be easyer if I had a vice to hold the shaft. ( Are you listening WIFE I need a vice!!!)
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And now for the worst bit, the retaining ring goes on the same as before but this time there ars no grooves to worry about. just line up the two holes in the gear with the pins then use a thin rod of some sort, (I used two very small allen keys), to press the pins back into the shaft allowing you to slide the ring over as before and turn untill you here the clicks. ( Did i mention that a vice would be really handy at this stage).
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Edited by AndyMiniMad., 17 June 2010 - 07:21 PM.


#9 evansisgreat

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 01:50 PM

Good work mate, I'm impressed with your progress. I think I'd of given up already and sent it to guessworks.

Keep up the good work!

#10 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 08:31 PM

Sorry had to remove pictures of the car restoration because I need the memory space to show the gearbox pictures

Will post more gearbox pictures tomorrow. Synchro hub build. springs and ball bearings. OOoo cant wait. :blink:

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 17 June 2010 - 07:28 PM.


#11 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 03:37 PM

Good work mate, I'm impressed with your progress. I think I'd of given up already and sent it to guessworks.

Keep up the good work!

Guess works is a gearbox building GOD. :thumbsup: And I would not have even attempted this without looking at some of his previous posts and advice. (BIG RESPECT)

#12 leadly

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 04:12 PM

Good effort so far mate, really interesting read so far!

#13 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 05:41 PM

So here we go with the synchro bits.
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As before all the bits are cleaned and oiled before fitting. I placed the three springs into the holes in the hub and then fitted the hub into the outer housing, make sure to line up the slots for the baulk rings. The ball bearings will sit in the small countersunk ends of the spring holes, see the picture below.
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Once all three ball bearings are in place it is possible to gently squeeze them into the holes while pushing the two housings together. It will go in all of a sudden so be prepared. dont stop pushing or let go of the ball bearings just be confident and press it home. Then place one of the baulk rings in the gear as shown in the bellow picture.
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Now slide the whole assembly onto the shaft.
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Next its time to install 1st gear. First place the gear bearing carrier onto the shaft. Note in the picture that I have placed the baulk ring into the syncro hub.
Then place the needle bearing and 1st gear on the carrier, you can see on the picture that the carrier is not all the way down the shaft. this is because its a really tight fit and you need 1st gear on to give you the leverage to push it home.
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#14 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 07:56 PM

So the next bit is to build the syncro hub for 3rd/4th gears which goes on the other end of the shaft to the one ive just done. I am not going to post pictures of the 3rd/4th syncro build as its exactly the same to put together as the 1st/2nd syncro.
Anyway here it is all built and on the shaft. (Dont forget the baulk rings)
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And this is how it should look now with the first gear pushed fully down onto the shaft
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I have been useing loads of oil on the parts as ive been putting this together. Now that this bit is complete i will submerge it in a tin of clean oil to keep the moisture off.
Err... i know I shoudnt blow my own trumpet but im really pleased with how its gone so far. :thumbsup: Although i dont think Guess works has anything to worry about.
Next its the 1st motion shaft, but thats me for now.

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 17 June 2010 - 08:09 PM.


#15 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 08:39 PM

Looks good so far, but you'll be removing the detent sleeve, spring and ball later as if you were actually going to torque the box up, you'll need to lock the gears...

but it's funny seeing how other people do it, like the selector shaft I put in from the other end, not that it makes any difference, may be you're left handed ??




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