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#31 cptkirk

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:38 AM

T - that anti roll bar looks really wrong, you need to rotate the roll bar so that the drop links go upwards maybe??.

here are a couple of snaps from the early days when I first got mine they show how my setup is, you need to have the lugs in place on the hubs to do it this way:


Posted Image




Posted Image

Edited by cptkirk, 09 July 2010 - 12:16 PM.


#32 cptkirk

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 12:36 PM

Oh and on the wheel studs, yes you defo need longer than you have.

#33 thien_is_cool

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:51 PM

I know what you are thinking... I thought the same! My trailing arms do not have mounts for the end links for the anti roll bar. Also the blades on the bar are at right angles.

I seem to have used up my attachment space to upload pictures. How do you go about this?

#34 cptkirk

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 07:35 AM

T, get a photobucket account (or similar photo storage account) and then copy the direct link from underneath the picture and then use the 'insert image' button when creating a post. As with all these things there is a limit but the pro version is only something like $30 US dollars for two years of storage.

Re you rear ARB can you not swing the bar round abit (to more like my position) and fix the drop link from the same top fixing??Your drop links look to be alot longer than mine and I dont have the room on the bottom supsension bolt to fit anything else to it.

You can turn the blades by loosening the bolt in the thick end of the blade.

#35 miniQ

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 02:43 PM

Here are them pictures with the pwr water to air intercooler from e11evns build you can see pictures of it on pages 6,7,8 and 9 here: http://s656.photobuc...4udo/?start=100

#36 thien_is_cool

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 08:04 AM

It has been a while! I have not had all that much done as I was waiting on a few items. Yesterday I started to prepare the shell by roughly cutting as much out as I could and now have to remove the remaining pieces held in by spot welds.

Can I leave the rear valence in for now and still be able to get the rear frame in?

Where does the floor get cut to? Can anyone please give me some measurements for this?

I am hoping to get the frame and shell together tomorrow and have a rolling shell. Next I plan to remove the floor's sound deadening material...what have you guys found to work well? Dry ice?

Also motor is nearly finished and hope to have it in the next couple of months.


Tn

#37 thien_is_cool

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 10:43 AM

A quick mock-up to get an idea of what it will look like.

Posted Image

Also removed the sound deadening, made the big cut in the rear end and opened up the wheel arches.

Still waiting on a few items before I will get it to a rolling shell stage.

Looking at getting the minisport alloy hubs. Can anyone tell me what size (mm) sockets are used on the top and bottom suspension arms? Apparently Minisport's ball-joint nuts are larger hence requiring a bigger socket and will not be able to tighten it.

Tn

#38 needsresto

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 10:45 AM

Hey mate. How's the build progressing. I'm in wa and looking at a z cars bike build. How are you finding yours

#39 thien_is_cool

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:25 PM

Back to building the mini.

What must be done to the steering column to accept a steering wheel? I have the Z cars supplied collapsible steering column, which appears to be Ford item.

Posted Image

-Thien

#40 cptkirk

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:33 PM

One option is to buy a removable steering wheel adaptor which comes with a piece that you would weld into place, companies like Sparco, Lifeline (mine is lifeline) sell them.

#41 thien_is_cool

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:18 AM

Thanks cptkirk. I've searched and realised there are plenty to choose from. Ok so the only thing to consider is to get the correct diameter piece and weld that in place. Am I correct to assume you would have to cut the steering column down to circular section?

What if a more permanent steering wheel is desired instead of a quick release system? Could the hex section of the column be utilised? I am considering both options.

#42 cptkirk

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 01:36 PM

Thanks cptkirk. I've searched and realised there are plenty to choose from. Ok so the only thing to consider is to get the correct diameter piece and weld that in place. Am I correct to assume you would have to cut the steering column down to circular section?


Theoretically no you wouldnt have to cut back to circular section, you could machine a corner on the weld on part supplied with the quick release to be an interference fit with the smallest width of the inside of the hex and then weld the two together.

What if a more permanent steering wheel is desired instead of a quick release system? Could the hex section of the column be utilised? I am considering both options.


Same as above really but weld a plate that you can fit a steering wheel too or a semi permanent clamp to the hex. Word of advice, before going down this route, consider your seat height and having a door in the way and whether you could get in and out with a fixed steering wheel in place - I cant......

Good luck & let us know how it all came out.

PS got any recent pictures of the build???

#43 thien_is_cool

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 04:21 PM

Theoretically no you wouldnt have to cut back to circular section, you could machine a corner on the weld on part supplied with the quick release to be an interference fit with the smallest width of the inside of the hex and then weld the two together.

Same as above really but weld a plate that you can fit a steering wheel too or a semi permanent clamp to the hex. Word of advice, before going down this route, consider your seat height and having a door in the way and whether you could get in and out with a fixed steering wheel in place - I cant......

Good luck & let us know how it all came out.

PS got any recent pictures of the build???


Thanks. There hasn't been much progress to be honest as I lost motivation somewhere along the way. Pictures will come slowly here on in.

Oh, I did get the top arms machined out to allow the appropriate socket to get in there to tighten the standard balljoint nuts. Was advised to machine down the nuts or hunt around for smaller hex diameter nuts. Glad machining the hole bigger was chosen instead.

Concerns that I have and could do with some help, starting with:

1. Clearance issues between brake pedal and lower u-joint. How much clearance should there be and how much have you got?

Rack is mounted (Z cars' SVA column). Wilwood pedal box is mounted (brackets from dash bar through firewall to tower bolt bar).

Edited by thien_is_cool, 02 March 2013 - 04:22 PM.


#44 edsmini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:54 PM

in your bolt pack from Zcars should have been 4 nuts for the top and bottom arms, im sure they are 15mm heads? but don't quote me on that. but a normal socket fits in there if you use the supplied nuts.


Ed

#45 thien_is_cool

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 02:19 AM

Many items were missing or incorrect from day 1. I've received several parcels with correct items since then. It just gets annoying when further into the project, you realise more was left out.

Do you know if these bolts (15mm heads) are standard over the counter items or are they machined as an afterthought?




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