49 replies to this topic

[thien_is_cool]

It will be cost effective to use an off-shelf twinscroll manifold, however with the extra deck height it will surely run into clearance problems with our rear subframe...have to go custom. My other option is to stay single scroll and use Full-race's FG civic Si bottom mount manifold.

Have you guys had any experience with Laminova intercoolers? My local fab guy has recommended it.

[miniQ]

http://www.k20a.org/...ead.php?t=65309 there is a zcar build with a pwr air to water intercooler as well. Also if you have not already seen it here is a picture of photoguy's custom ti exhaust LOL! its a cracker. he is the guy to ask about clearence etc.

Attached Files

•  hhhh.jpg   144.28K   109 downloads

Edited by miniQ, 24 June 2010 - 11:53 PM.

[thien_is_cool]

I have seen pictures of Lyle's setup - very nice! Clearance will not be an issue with a custom built manifold. Lyle has kindly helped me in the past with advice and referrals regarding the manifold and so has Andy concerning diffsd. Great bunch you are.

I hope I can source some custom work here in Oz as everything so far has come from across the waters. PWR intercoolers are a nice thing however I am being promised that laminova setups are far more superior and is the way to go.

[PhotoguyUSA]

Always here to help guys. Since Ive likely tried it I will surely chime in with a possible solution.

I would have went with a water to air if it were'nt for the shock and awe factor that I needed. They are nice units and well done. There are many people in the mini world for the most part new minis and a few Subarus that I know of using the Laminova intercooler with good results. Thats the one main problem with using a turbo in these rear engined cars is where to put the intercooler. My original plan was to run the pipes from the front through the original firewall then on the floorboard of the passenger side and back. But I found that the front engine bay was too confined to make it work properly.

The Full Race stuff is very nice and very well made. I originally had bought there manifold for my setup. But, it fouled the top bar and couldnt use it. This was there RSX Kseries ProStreet sidewinder version though. But very nice stuff.

Edited by PhotoguyUSA, 25 June 2010 - 01:46 PM.

[thien_is_cool]

Does anyone have a close-up shot or know of the clearance between the motor and trailing arm on the right-hand/pulley side? I was lucky that soon after I ordered a dry-sump set-up, I discovered that the pump and pulley will foul the trailing arm. So now I am trying to see if it is possible to mount the pump directly underneath the sump providing that the overall depth should remain the same as stock. Or perhaps mount it towards the rear but concerned with fouling the driveshafts. I am an able to measure this as the motor is still over at ERL/US. Thanks

[miniQ]

Check out this page of cptkirks build http://www.theminifo...x...02232&st=45
There are 3 clear pictures BUT looking at your kit it seems you may have different/newer trailing arms :/ - Also if you dont mind me asking what dry-sump setup you plan on running

Edited by miniQ, 26 June 2010 - 12:41 AM.

[thien_is_cool]

Nice reference...started reading Andy's build thread again! It is the picture I need...thanks!

I had ordered a morosso pan and peterson pump. That may be no longer. Here is a picture that was sent to me to get a visual of this product.

I may look into Daily Engineering's dry-sump set-up for the K20. From what I have seen, I believe they mount the pump on the driveshaft side as they run these in longitudinally engine mounted cars.

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[miniQ]

This is so nice you really are going for the top quality products. - have you looked into pace products?

Edited by miniQ, 27 June 2010 - 05:02 PM.

[PhotoguyUSA]

I highly doubt that the Peterson pump is going to work as I did a power steering delete which relocates the alternator down where the pump used to reside. It fouled the rear arm by about 4 inches on the standard semi race kit and I could not use it. This "looks" as though it may even be farther out than that. I dont know how much different the full race kit is in the back, but I doubt its that much different. ERL makes some good engines Ive used them before in past projects.

[cosi]

Nice to see someone in Australia getting this kind of mod done. Not sure if this is the first kit sold here but first I have seen on here. I can't wait to see it.

What state are you in? I am in Sydney.
Not sure what type of work you do or if you have connections for parts, but I am more than willing to help with that. I am a dealer of Rocket Industries also another mini place with the cheapest parts for Minis that I know of is Kar Craft.

I am hoping to get a kit of 'any' kind for the mini registered in NSW. I have some more research to do, but it looks like my only option is the Pro-Motive kit.

Good luck and I look forward to the rest of the build.

Con

[thien_is_cool]

Con, I am from Melbourne. I appreciate your offer to help with supplying of parts. Where do you work as a dealer?

Lyle, you are right that there is no way this will fit... looking at alternatives ATM.

[cosi]

I run House of Speed. It's now all about motorbikes but I do have quite a lot of accounts with importers and distributors.

Can't wait to see how this goes. Have you heard of anyone getting this sort of kit registered?

[thien_is_cool]

Nice. I have not heard of any zcars kits in this country or registered. It is something I plan to build whether or not it is fully, club or rod rego'd. Let you know when I get there.

[thien_is_cool]

Does anyone have a horizontal shot of crank pulley and trailing arm? I am trying to figure out the mounting height of the dry sump pump to clear the arm. Here is a shot of another setup...

 sideengine.jpg   96.51K   88 downloads

...this appears to be mounted higher (above where block meets sump). A shot more at eye level with the crank would be perfect!

Also I will be running an electric water pump so there may be some room upwards due to not having the OEM water pump pulley.

Thanks

[thien_is_cool]

Here is a picture of a wheel fitted kind of showing the amount of thread left. There is thin cardboard between the wheel and trailing arm to avoid damages. Fitting spacers will definitely leave less thread. Wheel nuts ATM tightens in less than 2 full turns.
 P1150228.JPG   2.01MB   23 downloads

While we are looking at the lower rear end of the kit here are a couple more:

I have noticed my rear anti-roll bar is different from Andy's
 P1150225.JPG   1.92MB   98 downloads

 P1150236.JPG   1.9MB   55 downloads