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How To Fit New Core Plugs


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#1 Goacher65

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 11:39 PM

Having just needed to do this myself to my engine build, I had looked on here to see if I could fins a reference to fitting core plugs and couldn't. I thought it may be helpful to some people if I put up a quick picture guide of the process. This is a job worth doing if you are undertaking an engine build, as although the plugs look pretty from the front, the corrosion on the back could be waiting to burst out with 18p.s.i of pressure when you least expect or want it!

Because the smaller core plugs complete the oil galleries, I am not replacing them as all being well they shouldn't be corroded! (not to mention my local motor factor didn't have them in stock :whistling:)

Firstly, to remove the old core plugs, using a small punch, hammer one side of the core plug in, until the core plug rotates in the block like a throttle butterfly. You should now be able to use a pair of pliers to pull them out of the block. Sorry don't have any pictures of this process as didn't have my camera with me at the time.

Right, the A+ block has 9 core plugs, 4 small 1/4" plugs, and 5, 1 5/16" water gallery plugs. On earlier blocks, i believe they had convex discs and solid brass plugs instead of the cups on the later A+. For fitting, I also bought a tube of 'Hylomar', a reasonably thin silicone gasket sealant.

Firstly, make sure that any corrosion is removed (using light abrasive) and free of any lubricants (using brake cleaner).
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Before putting any sealant on, find a socket, or similar, which is a close fit inside the core plug. I used a short length of bicycle steerer tube (1 1/8"). N.B not too close a fit, or as the core plug enters the block it will pinch the socket and all will become one!

Next, apply a thin film of Hylomar to the outside edge of the core plugs.
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Place on the hole to be filled, and using your socket/drift, hammer the plug into the block, making sure it is going in square and evenly. There is no stop on the plugs, but the plugs should sit just shy of the surface, on the end plugs, there is a slight chamfer which i have stopped at.
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Use a rag to wipe away excess sealant.
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Bob's your uncle!
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Hope this helps, may even make it into the "How to" guides......

If you have any questions let me know, and any feedback welcomed.

Howard

#2 ANON

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 09:05 AM

i've never used sealant on a core plug, you can stick them in the freezer for a bit before you fit them as well.

#3 Goacher65

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 12:07 PM

Sealant was suggested to me by my college tutor so I though't i'd give it a go. Can't do any harm, and incase of corrotion on the seating, gives a definate seal.

#4 Jacks

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:44 PM

Could you give me a link or an image of the sealant please

#5 Cooperman

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 10:43 PM

I always use Loctite Bearing Lock on the core plugs.

 

When doing an engine build it is vital to thoroughly clean and wash out the oil galleries and Loctite Bearing Lock is good for fitting the oil gallery plugs as well. Remember, these take the full oil pressure which can easily be 90 psi at cold.



#6 danie garry

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 07:27 AM

http://www.ebay.co.u...-gasket-sealant



#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 05:17 PM

I use blue for core plugs, and in fact apart from I have a socket which fits perfectly inside the core plug, that could be me fitting a core plug.



#8 Magna-Flash

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 07:17 AM

How about the pre A+ core plugs? How do you fit them?

 

http://minispares.co...ugs/2K8169.aspx



#9 Gr4h4m

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 09:43 PM

Arh they are a bit more fiddle. You put them in with the bulge facing out and wack the bulge flat, bending the disc flat makes it fit tight and seal up

#10 Magna-Flash

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 05:39 AM

Wack with a hammer?! Maybe a big drift in between? Don´t want to miss - and destroy something... <_<



#11 Gr4h4m

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 08:04 AM

Get a suitable sized drift it will have to the hard as it takes a bit of a wack..

#12 Minitrio

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 05:57 PM

Managed to drift mine in with loctite, whilst the engine was still in situ. Took a while and a lot of patience, but they are still in place after 4 years!

#13 Dusky

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 04:58 PM

I need to replace the far left one when standing inf ront of the engine ( Cylinder 4) Is it easy? Or hard?



#14 Dusky

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 03:37 PM

can you knock them too deep,



#15 MRA

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Posted 13 March 2016 - 01:43 PM

Yes they can be knocked in too far.

 

As above leave them level with the inner part of the chamfer...

 

I have a very specific tool for these that only allows them to get to the required depth.

 

The oil galleries need to be brushed through using a 3/8" diameter, long bottle or oil way brush.






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