1604 replies to this topic

[ToM 2012]

yes they are but i dont no what to weld in first lol by the time i have finished with it it will have all new panels on so might aswell get a solid shell ino its not nice to reuse the original. even a qualified welder that needs money wouldnt touch this lol

[rally515]

Send it to meeeeeee then i'l do it

[ToM 2012]

hi steve yep i gatherd that when i removed the carpet

[ToM 2012]

if you can weld this mini shell up solid then let me no a price.

[steven]

I think if you just focus on a bit at a time you will get there in the end

[ToM 2012]

I think if you just focus on a bit at a time you will get there in the end

i think its a gonna. looks good on pics lol

[steven]

was an expensive log book then

[rally515]

I think if you just focus on a bit at a time you will get there in the end

Yeah this is the correct method to use tom,
Basically get some roof rack bars for halfords cheap or wherever then stick it upside down & focus on for example the flitch bottoms with new sheet steel & work your way round.

Be sure to leave extra sheel on then when you're mating the new floor up weld in & trim your work back to suit.

[ToM 2012]

wont it cave in if i put it on it roof? the rear subframe has gone threw the floor an seat. how would i get this lined up nice with out the look of crabbing?

[rally515]

Buying a new floor with heelboard,sills ect would mean bracing wouldnt be needed as the reference points are or is the new floor assembly.

Im 90% sure the roof racks would hold it if not add a few more (just a money saving idea).

Also new boot floor comes complete as a boot floor/back seat piece.

[ToM 2012]

Buying a new floor with heelboard,sills ect would mean bracing wouldnt be needed as the reference points are or is the new floor assembly.

Im 90% sure the roof racks would hold it if not add a few more (just a money saving idea).

Also new boot floor comes complete as a boot floor/back seat piece.

right then you are going to hate me now mate. as i am going to annoy you with questions
the way this shell is now there is no floor init so to get the subframes of i need to jack get the shell up. how would you do this with out the body bending in half? ones the subframes are of. i will then remove the front end. then could i put to brace bars each side half way up? and then spin it over and put the roof on top of a wooden pallet with wheels on to move around?

[rally515]

To get the subby's out/off best bet is to get help with tipping it to the left as the right hand side looks the weakest.

Were do you want to put brace bars & why ?

Yes putting it on its roof on a pallet is a good option but the roof bars would protect the roof & keep the shell flat, sturdy & level.

[ToM 2012]

ok well i was thinking of lifting the front to get the subframe and engine out in one? the brace bars are just to stop the movement and to strengthen it more so we can lift it?

[rally515]

Ahh you mean brace the door ways ?
yeah the lower the better but something is better than nothing.

could just chop the slam/front panel out & almost mearly slide the subby/engine out with minimal lifting ?.

[1984mini25]

Personally id set the doors so the top window frames sit right and the back edges of the doors line up with the quarter panels, then weld bracing across the insides of the doors and across from each bin with maybe a few extra cross pieces.

Then once the shell is braced with a sort of square frame you can then use it to take measurements as a reference point for the new floor etc.