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#31 roadhouse

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Posted 20 November 2014 - 03:09 AM

Sportspack (non-genuine, the real ones are $$$$) flares finally showed up from across the pond.

 

7232BFE1-6875-479A-995D-C838580E793D_zps

 

D07D2C06-018A-47F6-9ACB-1A2A3AACFA40_zps

 

Morris mini grill and moustache

 

C8062493-E896-499D-9811-20E820197E2D_zps

 

I'll get this stuff over to the body shop in the next couple days so he can mock them up and make sure we won't have any issues. 



#32 roadhouse

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 04:52 PM

Well it's been about a month since my last update. Not much new to report. We've received almost of all the parts needed to get the body all mocked up. Still waiting on bumper brackets, bootlid license plate lamp housing, and seats (being shipped from Hong Kong  :ohno: ) Once the seats arrive, we will work out some custom seat brackets and figure out where the roll bar needs to go.

 

From this picture it's easy to tell that either the front clip has been pushed in a little or the bonnet is off. My guess is that the clip is pushed in. Once they start fitting all the pieces together we'll be able to find out what's 'going on. 

 

10689425_10102361325726282_6880494285211

 

I was hoping to have already started installing some of the suspension items on the subframes but time has just gotten away from me. I've been working on prepping my mustang for a full roll cage in the next few months and that seems to occupy most of my free time as of late. We are also in the process of buying a new house (3 car garage!!) so once we get moved in during January I should have more space to properly devote to the mini. 



#33 roadhouse

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 02:09 PM

Hello all-

 

Looks like it has been over two months since my last update. Time has gotten away from me. I am happy to report that the seats we ordered finally arrived at our house from Hong Kong yesterday! Shipping took 2 months by boat. I'm just thrilled the seats weren't drenched when they got here  :proud: The seats are great, and more importantly my wife loves them! The driver seat looks a little worn and both seats will need some new foam but there is a great seat upholstery shop here in town that should be able to make these look good as new.

 

92004AF1-991E-4EF5-80C0-4BB733788D9D_zps

 

48206974-3420-4C60-BC87-5E717BE561C7_zps

 

We will be going to the shop this weekend to test fit the seats and mock up where the roll bar needs to be to accommodate both my wife and I. I'll be sure to take more pictures. 

 

We finally got moved into our new space and I'm working on getting everything organized in the garage so I can start working on getting the suspension installed on the sub frames. The extra space in the garage is definitely nice. The third stall is the perfect size for the mini!

 

93957CFC-38DF-4BE0-A5F8-182AEC70021B_zps

 

787704A3-A6C4-4F0A-B210-D4C47F9011C3_zps

 

New floor put down. Should make a great workspace! 

702FB8F5-2359-48A4-960D-B5963D51331C_zps


Edited by roadhouse, 27 January 2015 - 02:10 PM.


#34 LukeH

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 10:24 PM

Wow I'm jealous of that workspace. I could fill that with a lot of toys and tools.

Project is looking good so far.

#35 roadhouse

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 02:54 AM

Wow I'm jealous of that workspace. I could fill that with a lot of toys and tools.

Project is looking good so far.

 

Thanks! We are enjoying it so far. 



#36 roadhouse

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 11:25 PM

Took the seats by the shop to test fit them in the car and mock up where the main hoop of the roll bar needs to be. My wife's not excited at all... 

 

FE007366-F326-4405-A2D9-BDC3CCC3666E_zps

 

F350C068-E1B8-4197-A2E4-649822768587_zps

 

They are definitely making some progress on the car. One door, bonnet, and the boot are all fitted (they need a little adjusting but nothing major). We were informed of one setback yesterday, the RH door skin that I ordered from minidoor.co.uk turned out to be a LH door :( . Not a huge deal but hopefully we can get a new across the pond in a timely manner. 

 

LH door on. Gap needs a little work...

B7E4FDBF-00FE-4EEF-B23E-7DDD407A0A07_zps

 

1A28F7AD-27D2-4AB1-837E-3030A4B4A342_zps

 

These seats are interesting. Bear in mind that this is my only dealing with British cars, but it appears like the rear seat brace just rested against the floor of the car? With some little hook that held it in place? It looks like it would work like that just fine I've just never seen anything like it before. Am I missing something? We also found out that the tabs on the floor for the front seats are not in the appropriate spot after the previous owner put in the new floor. These will need to get moved. 

0F091544-E04C-451E-BF69-F0C897E35C71_zps


Edited by roadhouse, 09 February 2015 - 11:27 PM.


#37 Ben_O

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 11:29 PM

She loves it!



#38 roadhouse

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 11:00 PM

Starting to dive into the subframes/suspension. Last night I dug through most of the parts that came with the shell we purchased. Most of the parts are junk and will be thrown out. Such as these tie rods. Whoa. I included the upgraded heavy duty adjustable rods for comparison. 

D643292A-0245-4C31-9171-DB77BBC89B4B_zps

 

Lower arms looked OK but these new arms will allow for plenty of adjustments 

B9C0044B-14F7-47B5-A5B5-F101AA4707A1_zps

 

Really the only parts that came with the car that might be getting reused are the radius arms (these look to be in great shape!) and the steering column. The shell came with a decent looking steering rack but it is LHD and we will be switching this to RHD. Planning to jump into the assembly of the rear subframe over the next several days so wish me luck.

 

We've also decided to get the repeater cut-outs on the Sportspack flares smoothed since we won't have the lights on this car. I think that will look much better overall as opposed to having the cut-out with no light. 

 

With cut-out

IMGP0481_zpsg4gpbmx9.jpg

 

 

Smoothed cut-out

IMG_4826_zpsywa4ypqm.jpg


Edited by roadhouse, 11 February 2015 - 11:02 PM.


#39 roadhouse

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 01:27 AM

I finally got around to getting the R1 motor mounted on the car engine stand that I have. I made a crude attempt at an adaptor that uses the two rear motor mounts and attached it to the plate on the stand. It's nice to have the engine off the floor and be able to move it around. Now I just need to get around to fitting the baffle and clutch. And clean it up  :proud:

 

4E99B1C2-2A4D-4852-BDBB-843224BD28BF_zps



#40 roadhouse

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Posted 23 February 2015 - 06:49 PM

I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:

 

-R1 ECU (ordered)

-R1 wiring harness (have)

-R6 speedo (have)

-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)

-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)

-Exup eliminator

-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)

-PC3 power commander (have)

-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)

-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)

-Oil pan baffle (have)

-Clutch cable (ordered)

 

I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option? 


Edited by roadhouse, 23 February 2015 - 06:54 PM.


#41 Helldriver

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Posted 23 February 2015 - 10:08 PM

I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:

 

-R1 ECU (ordered)

-R1 wiring harness (have)

-R6 speedo (have)

-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)

-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)

-Exup eliminator

-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)

-PC3 power commander (have)

-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)

-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)

-Oil pan baffle (have)

-Clutch cable (ordered)

 

I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option? 

why you are ordering an R1 Ecu? Sell your PC and get the polestar ecu from Lynx together with a ready made loom for it.

 

Clutch: I strongly recommand to use the Barnett spring conversion with the stiff 55lbs springs. The OEM standard diaprgram springs (or anything uprated from yamaha ) and endplate are hardly capable of the 180kg motorbike, a 500kg car is by far to much for them. They will slip through and ruin your new clutch plates in a very short time. My clutch has only 3000km on so I leave OEM clutch plates but in combination with the barnett spring conversion kit as Jon from lynx recommended. The OEM plates will wear out faster but they are for free :-)

If all the clutch is worn anyhow take the whole barnett clutch kit and save yourself frustration and money with the OEM one and take the full barnett clutch kit incl. spring conversion.

Aribox: the stock air box has an air-pressure sensor fitted, you would need this too. You also need the plastic air trumpets that are fitted in the air box and the opening form of the trumpets are calculated precisely for this engine, so don't mess with these as you will loose significant power. So best to get bottom part of standard air box with the trumpets and sensor mounted and tear it apart. You can also use the air trumpets from Yamaha motorsport which have 2 different length to support middle and high end power but they are rare and very expensive.

Airfilter: Simplest was is to stick BMC foam air filter directly on the end of each trumpet. Look at lynx green R1 miglia and you will see what I mean.

 

fuel pump: I need to look into this too. Most use facet pumps as the r1 needs 2,7bar till 3 bar fuel pressure on high revs. If you plan to use MPI pump it must be in absolute perfect condition as it is capable of only 2,7bar max. And this brings you to the question which fuel tank to use as you need a return pipe....MPI one is suitable here.


Edited by Helldriver, 23 February 2015 - 10:34 PM.


#42 roadhouse

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 04:07 AM

 

I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:

 

-R1 ECU (ordered)

-R1 wiring harness (have)

-R6 speedo (have)

-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)

-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)

-Exup eliminator

-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)

-PC3 power commander (have)

-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)

-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)

-Oil pan baffle (have)

-Clutch cable (ordered)

 

I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option? 

why you are ordering an R1 Ecu? Sell your PC and get the polestar ecu from Lynx together with a ready made loom for it.

 

Clutch: I strongly recommand to use the Barnett spring conversion with the stiff 55lbs springs. The OEM standard diaprgram springs (or anything uprated from yamaha ) and endplate are hardly capable of the 180kg motorbike, a 500kg car is by far to much for them. They will slip through and ruin your new clutch plates in a very short time. My clutch has only 3000km on so I leave OEM clutch plates but in combination with the barnett spring conversion kit as Jon from lynx recommended. The OEM plates will wear out faster but they are for free :-)

If all the clutch is worn anyhow take the whole barnett clutch kit and save yourself frustration and money with the OEM one and take the full barnett clutch kit incl. spring conversion.

Aribox: the stock air box has an air-pressure sensor fitted, you would need this too. You also need the plastic air trumpets that are fitted in the air box and the opening form of the trumpets are calculated precisely for this engine, so don't mess with these as you will loose significant power. So best to get bottom part of standard air box with the trumpets and sensor mounted and tear it apart. You can also use the air trumpets from Yamaha motorsport which have 2 different length to support middle and high end power but they are rare and very expensive.

Airfilter: Simplest was is to stick BMC foam air filter directly on the end of each trumpet. Look at lynx green R1 miglia and you will see what I mean.

 

fuel pump: I need to look into this too. Most use facet pumps as the r1 needs 2,7bar till 3 bar fuel pressure on high revs. If you plan to use MPI pump it must be in absolute perfect condition as it is capable of only 2,7bar max. And this brings you to the question which fuel tank to use as you need a return pipe....MPI one is suitable here.

 

 

-Planning on just using all the R1 electronics and having Lynx modify the R1 wiring harness that I have. The Polestar looks like an awesome setup but I'm happy to go down the R1 ECU path and there are plenty of BEC users that have had success with it, Duds100 being one of them. I know we had chatted a little about it in your build thread and you broke down some prices to where the Polestar would be cheaper but in my case I was able to find many of the needed parts for much cheaper than your proposed prices. And I like the idea of using the R1 speedo (or in my case the R6 speedo cause I'm a cheap bastard lol)

 

-Jealous of your low mileage engine! Definitely just run the stock clutch out until it blows. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on this motor so we'll see what the clutch looks like when I open it up. I've been reading up on clutch options on other BEC and R1 sites and everyone seems to favor OEM clutch plates? I don't know... lots of opinions out there. Same deal on the clutch spring conversion. Either way... I think we can agree that the stock clutch spring alone won't be enough. For the low cost of the diaphragm spring it may be worth a shot to see how well it can hold the clutch. We'll see. I may change my mind. 

 

-Thank you for the info on the airbox. I was under the impresson I needed a few sensors off the stocker so I'll need to source one of those. Easy to find. Good info on the trumpets, too. I will check out the filters on the Miglia...

 

-Like you, I need to look into fuel pumps more and figure out which direction to go. We will be using an aftermarket fuel cell which may changes things a bit. 

 

Thank you for the detailed response. Much appreciated. 



#43 Helldriver

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 06:23 PM

 

 

I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:

 

-R1 ECU (ordered)

-R1 wiring harness (have)

-R6 speedo (have)

-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)

-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)

-Exup eliminator

-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)

-PC3 power commander (have)

-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)

-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)

-Oil pan baffle (have)

-Clutch cable (ordered)

 

I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option? 

why you are ordering an R1 Ecu? Sell your PC and get the polestar ecu from Lynx together with a ready made loom for it.

 

Clutch: I strongly recommand to use the Barnett spring conversion with the stiff 55lbs springs. The OEM standard diaprgram springs (or anything uprated from yamaha ) and endplate are hardly capable of the 180kg motorbike, a 500kg car is by far to much for them. They will slip through and ruin your new clutch plates in a very short time. My clutch has only 3000km on so I leave OEM clutch plates but in combination with the barnett spring conversion kit as Jon from lynx recommended. The OEM plates will wear out faster but they are for free :-)

If all the clutch is worn anyhow take the whole barnett clutch kit and save yourself frustration and money with the OEM one and take the full barnett clutch kit incl. spring conversion.

Aribox: the stock air box has an air-pressure sensor fitted, you would need this too. You also need the plastic air trumpets that are fitted in the air box and the opening form of the trumpets are calculated precisely for this engine, so don't mess with these as you will loose significant power. So best to get bottom part of standard air box with the trumpets and sensor mounted and tear it apart. You can also use the air trumpets from Yamaha motorsport which have 2 different length to support middle and high end power but they are rare and very expensive.

Airfilter: Simplest was is to stick BMC foam air filter directly on the end of each trumpet. Look at lynx green R1 miglia and you will see what I mean.

 

fuel pump: I need to look into this too. Most use facet pumps as the r1 needs 2,7bar till 3 bar fuel pressure on high revs. If you plan to use MPI pump it must be in absolute perfect condition as it is capable of only 2,7bar max. And this brings you to the question which fuel tank to use as you need a return pipe....MPI one is suitable here.

 

 

-Planning on just using all the R1 electronics and having Lynx modify the R1 wiring harness that I have. The Polestar looks like an awesome setup but I'm happy to go down the R1 ECU path and there are plenty of BEC users that have had success with it, Duds100 being one of them. I know we had chatted a little about it in your build thread and you broke down some prices to where the Polestar would be cheaper but in my case I was able to find many of the needed parts for much cheaper than your proposed prices. And I like the idea of using the R1 speedo (or in my case the R6 speedo cause I'm a cheap bastard lol)

 

-Jealous of your low mileage engine! Definitely just run the stock clutch out until it blows. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on this motor so we'll see what the clutch looks like when I open it up. I've been reading up on clutch options on other BEC and R1 sites and everyone seems to favor OEM clutch plates? I don't know... lots of opinions out there. Same deal on the clutch spring conversion. Either way... I think we can agree that the stock clutch spring alone won't be enough. For the low cost of the diaphragm spring it may be worth a shot to see how well it can hold the clutch. We'll see. I may change my mind. 

 

-Thank you for the info on the airbox. I was under the impresson I needed a few sensors off the stocker so I'll need to source one of those. Easy to find. Good info on the trumpets, too. I will check out the filters on the Miglia...

 

-Like you, I need to look into fuel pumps more and figure out which direction to go. We will be using an aftermarket fuel cell which may changes things a bit. 

 

Thank you for the detailed response. Much appreciated. 

 

you are welcome.

I am a cheap bastard too :highfive:

Planned the polestar route but will also go OEM route with rapid bike.

Reasons: 

1) figured out that I have a workshop with a rolling rod around the corner who is also familiar with Rapid Bike modules and can map the R1 in the mini properly on the rod, so a huge problem solved. 

2) in paralell I got a complete Rapid Bike 3 with quick shifter (clutch less upshifts), an R1 5 PW speedo and rapid bike pro software for a huge bargain.

3) 1+2 solves problems and give me the full modifiable electronic setup for under 250bucks,said I am a cheap as too...

 

Rapid Bike can modify

- ignition 

- fuel

- timing

- changes to throttle (adapt gas pedal line to BEC)

- Rev limit

- 2 maps parallel and on-the-fly switchable (e.g. dry and wet setup for track)

Additionally I got the the full master software and quick shifter option with it, means clutch less upshifts which is perfect for my tracktool. 

Try to get this package with power commander, costs you 4 digits sum and you won't get everything. Negative not best support from italian manufacturer (don't care as I have the full software to programme it and someone how knows the rapide bike by heart) and some tuner say chips in it are a bit slower then power commander but both are definitely fast enough for a 12 years old ECU.

I have the "old" model which called Rapide Bike 3, this is now between the Rapide Bike evo (http://www.dimsport....g/rapidbike-evo) and racing module.



#44 LukeH

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 03:40 PM

If you haven't already seen them, these two websites are great source of info;

 

http://www.robcollin...sign/index.html

 

http://www.joe250.co...inirebuild.html

 

hopefully the site owners won't mind me posting links to them. 

 

Keep up the good work on the project. Looking good so far.



#45 roadhouse

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 08:11 PM

If you haven't already seen them, these two websites are great source of info;

 

http://www.robcollin...sign/index.html

 

http://www.joe250.co...inirebuild.html

 

hopefully the site owners won't mind me posting links to them. 

 

Keep up the good work on the project. Looking good so far.

 

Thanks man. And thanks for posting up those links. I've read through the Joe250 build multiple times and just made it over to the other one a few days back. It's been awhile since Joe updated his build... I want to see the finished product!!






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