I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:
-R1 ECU (ordered)
-R1 wiring harness (have)
-R6 speedo (have)
-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)
-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)
-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)
-PC3 power commander (have)
-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)
-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)
-Oil pan baffle (have)
-Clutch cable (ordered)
I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option?
why you are ordering an R1 Ecu? Sell your PC and get the polestar ecu from Lynx together with a ready made loom for it.
Clutch: I strongly recommand to use the Barnett spring conversion with the stiff 55lbs springs. The OEM standard diaprgram springs (or anything uprated from yamaha ) and endplate are hardly capable of the 180kg motorbike, a 500kg car is by far to much for them. They will slip through and ruin your new clutch plates in a very short time. My clutch has only 3000km on so I leave OEM clutch plates but in combination with the barnett spring conversion kit as Jon from lynx recommended. The OEM plates will wear out faster but they are for free
If all the clutch is worn anyhow take the whole barnett clutch kit and save yourself frustration and money with the OEM one and take the full barnett clutch kit incl. spring conversion.
Aribox: the stock air box has an air-pressure sensor fitted, you would need this too. You also need the plastic air trumpets that are fitted in the air box and the opening form of the trumpets are calculated precisely for this engine, so don't mess with these as you will loose significant power. So best to get bottom part of standard air box with the trumpets and sensor mounted and tear it apart. You can also use the air trumpets from Yamaha motorsport which have 2 different length to support middle and high end power but they are rare and very expensive.
Airfilter: Simplest was is to stick BMC foam air filter directly on the end of each trumpet. Look at lynx green R1 miglia and you will see what I mean.
fuel pump: I need to look into this too. Most use facet pumps as the r1 needs 2,7bar till 3 bar fuel pressure on high revs. If you plan to use MPI pump it must be in absolute perfect condition as it is capable of only 2,7bar max. And this brings you to the question which fuel tank to use as you need a return pipe....MPI one is suitable here.
-Planning on just using all the R1 electronics and having Lynx modify the R1 wiring harness that I have. The Polestar looks like an awesome setup but I'm happy to go down the R1 ECU path and there are plenty of BEC users that have had success with it, Duds100 being one of them. I know we had chatted a little about it in your build thread and you broke down some prices to where the Polestar would be cheaper but in my case I was able to find many of the needed parts for much cheaper than your proposed prices. And I like the idea of using the R1 speedo (or in my case the R6 speedo cause I'm a cheap bastard lol)
-Jealous of your low mileage engine! Definitely just run the stock clutch out until it blows. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on this motor so we'll see what the clutch looks like when I open it up. I've been reading up on clutch options on other BEC and R1 sites and everyone seems to favor OEM clutch plates? I don't know... lots of opinions out there. Same deal on the clutch spring conversion. Either way... I think we can agree that the stock clutch spring alone won't be enough. For the low cost of the diaphragm spring it may be worth a shot to see how well it can hold the clutch. We'll see. I may change my mind.
-Thank you for the info on the airbox. I was under the impresson I needed a few sensors off the stocker so I'll need to source one of those. Easy to find. Good info on the trumpets, too. I will check out the filters on the Miglia...
-Like you, I need to look into fuel pumps more and figure out which direction to go. We will be using an aftermarket fuel cell which may changes things a bit.
Thank you for the detailed response. Much appreciated.
you are welcome.
I am a cheap bastard too
Planned the polestar route but will also go OEM route with rapid bike.
1) figured out that I have a workshop with a rolling rod around the corner who is also familiar with Rapid Bike modules and can map the R1 in the mini properly on the rod, so a huge problem solved.
2) in paralell I got a complete Rapid Bike 3 with quick shifter (clutch less upshifts), an R1 5 PW speedo and rapid bike pro software for a huge bargain.
3) 1+2 solves problems and give me the full modifiable electronic setup for under 250bucks,said I am a cheap as too...
Rapid Bike can modify
- changes to throttle (adapt gas pedal line to BEC)
- Rev limit
- 2 maps parallel and on-the-fly switchable (e.g. dry and wet setup for track)
Additionally I got the the full master software and quick shifter option with it, means clutch less upshifts which is perfect for my tracktool.
Try to get this package with power commander, costs you 4 digits sum and you won't get everything. Negative not best support from italian manufacturer (don't care as I have the full software to programme it and someone how knows the rapide bike by heart) and some tuner say chips in it are a bit slower then power commander but both are definitely fast enough for a 12 years old ECU.
I have the "old" model which called Rapide Bike 3, this is now between the Rapide Bike evo (http://www.dimsport....g/rapidbike-evo) and racing module.