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Drum To Disc Conversion Hints And Tips Please


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#31 nicklouse

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 10:50 PM

 

 

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?

How does it compare to the drive flange?

 

Good question, I'll check that next time.

 

Guessing they are the S type. Often people do not get the drive flanges seated fully. So you can also compare the edge of the disc flange that is just outside of the drive flange. They should have the same runout.



#32 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:04 PM

 

 

 

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?

How does it compare to the drive flange?

 

Good question, I'll check that next time.

 

Guessing they are the S type. Often people do not get the drive flanges seated fully. So you can also compare the edge of the disc flange that is just outside of the drive flange. They should have the same runout.

 

Yes they are the S type. 

 

Okay so there's 4 thou runout at the outer edge of the disc, 3 thou runout on the disc flange next to the driver flange and 3 thou on the drive flange itself. 

 

So the disc is fitted to the drive flange correctly.  You say people often don't get the drive flanges seated fully and it seems I haven't so how do I get them to seat properly?



#33 Moke Spider

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 07:24 PM

If you are running with the standard split type Tapered Washers (the one behind the CV Nut), then those runout figures, while not ideal, are about what to expect and I wouldn't loose too much sleep over them.

 

I think what Nick mentioned is getting the Disc to fully seat over the Drive Flange. There's only the 4 x Phillips Head Screws here to retain them and usually, they are not enough to pull the Disc up to the Flange. If you haven't already, I'd suggest separating them and being sure there's no crud between them, then I like to fit them together in the Press, but using a couple of washers and a Nut on the Wheel studs will also work OK.



#34 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 08:47 PM

So the 4 thou runout I'm seeing is quite normal even though the manual says 2 thou maximum?



#35 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 12:27 PM

Caliper to hub bolts:  spring washers or thread lock?  No spring washers supplied with kit.  Parts manual doesn't show spring washers but the workshop manual does.



#36 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 05:27 PM

If you are running with the standard split type Tapered Washers (the one behind the CV Nut), then those runout figures, while not ideal, are about what to expect and I wouldn't loose too much sleep over them.

 

What other type of tapered washers are available?



#37 Moke Spider

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 05:56 PM

So the 4 thou runout I'm seeing is quite normal even though the manual says 2 thou maximum?

 

Again, not ideal, but I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it. I wouldn't want anymore that that.

 

 

Caliper to hub bolts:  spring washers or thread lock?  No spring washers supplied with kit.  Parts manual doesn't show spring washers but the workshop manual does.

 

On these, a Spring Washer for sure !   item 14 in the diagram below

 

XpLc6gg.jpg

 

It maybe that the diagram you are looking at is only showing the Caliper 1/2 bolts , item 3 ?
 

 

 

If you are running with the standard split type Tapered Washers (the one behind the CV Nut), then those runout figures, while not ideal, are about what to expect and I wouldn't loose too much sleep over them.

 

What other type of tapered washers are available?

 

 

I think it was Graeme C (?) who recently put me on to the KAD type

 

https://kentautodeve...cv-taper-washer

I was actually going to make these when I was referred to them.



#38 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 07:00 PM

 

So the 4 thou runout I'm seeing is quite normal even though the manual says 2 thou maximum?

 

Again, not ideal, but I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it. I wouldn't want anymore that that.

 

As long as I don't end up with a pulsating pedal.

 

It maybe that the diagram you are looking at is only showing the Caliper 1/2 bolts , item 3 ?
 

 

 

Bolt is item 8 on this one but no washer shown.

 


 

If you are running with the standard split type Tapered Washers (the one behind the CV Nut), then those runout figures, while not ideal, are about what to expect and I wouldn't loose too much sleep over them.

 

What other type of tapered washers are available?

 

 

I think it was Graeme C (?) who recently put me on to the KAD type

 

https://kentautodeve...cv-taper-washer

I was actually going to make these when I was referred to them.

 

Do you think it's worth fitting the KAD type on road cars?



#39 Moke Spider

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 07:30 PM

Just to save this getting to a long line of quotes,,,,,

 

Pulsating Pedal - I hear you but it won't with 0.004" runout.

 

Parts Book - mmm,,, this is yet another example why I prefer to work from factory documents. They are not perfect or infalable, but usually, what might be missed in one is picked up in another.

 

KAD Washers - hard call if worthwhile on a Road Car. I must say, my experience with Minis running 10 and 12" wheels, the wheel bearings and hubs etc if assembled right, don't give a lot of trouble, so maybe not. On our big wheel Mokes, the rolling diameter is pretty huge compared to a Mini, so all hub and steering parts are rather 'pushed' before we get too far out of the box !  I now run them, so far, so good, but haven't done enough miles yet to make a full call on them.

 

One thing though, because they are not split, they do pull up the flange square, so there is less on no runout from this cause.



#40 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 09:02 PM


Parts Book - mmm,,, this is yet another example why I prefer to work from factory documents. They are not perfect or infalable, but usually, what might be missed in one is picked up in another.

 

How did you get your factory documents?
 



#41 nicklouse

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 09:06 PM

KAD washers never used them in the past but had brand new Rover made ones. as i was at KAD earlier i picked a pair up.



#42 Moke Spider

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 11:37 PM

 


Parts Book - mmm,,, this is yet another example why I prefer to work from factory documents. They are not perfect or infalable, but usually, what might be missed in one is picked up in another.

 

How did you get your factory documents?
 

 

 

I was lucky enough (if you could call it that !) to work for an authorised Leyland and then JRA (as it was here at that time) workshop, a very very long time ago and when they eventually closed, they kindly passed all their Factory info to me. I've also since had a few bits and pieced along the way, given to me too.

 

(Leyland Australia, in it's many incarnations eventually became JRA - Jaguar Rover Australia)



#43 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 03:02 PM

Fitted other side, 5 thou runout on this one, grrr.

 

Kit comes without anti-rattle springs or shims as shown in workshop manual, is it normal not to fit them now?



#44 nicklouse

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 04:49 PM

Fitted other side, 5 thou runout on this one, grrr.

 

Kit comes without anti-rattle springs or shims as shown in workshop manual, is it normal not to fit them now?

never were any on the 7.5s only on the 8.4s.



#45 Moke Spider

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 05:35 PM

 

Fitted other side, 5 thou runout on this one, grrr.

 

Kit comes without anti-rattle springs or shims as shown in workshop manual, is it normal not to fit them now?

never were any on the 7.5s only on the 8.4s.

 

 

There was no anti-rattle spring, but there was an anti-squeal shim. Item 12 in the above drawing.






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