76 replies to this topic

[AP2020]

 

Thats interesting because the split is there for a reason and the KAD ones don't have a split   
 
Alsoi the ROVER manual states to use a large flat washer as a tool only to pull the CV and bearing system together
 
http://minispares.co...|Back to search

interesting i cant find the info about the washer in the spi or mpi rover manuals, in fact no mention of the bearings in the mpi manual and in the spi it just says make sure they are seated.

 

 

From memory its in the metro supplement, but it is certainly in the Haynes and as the statement above says "make sure they are seated" this tool... http://www.minispare...|Back to search will be ideal and has been proven to help, and being realistic, what manual says to use ratchet spanners or ratchet handles etc, but we still use them because they make life easier. 

Edited by AP2020, 23 January 2020 - 08:25 AM.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

...makesure you use the correct grease for wheel bearings and not the normal LM

 

The workshop manuals would appear to specify multipurpose lithium grease such as Castrol LM, Duckhams LB 10 anywhere grease is used.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint

 

For the flat washer yes certainly as its just used to settle the assembly together, the concept is simple enough, it reduces the chance of the split washer clamping on the CV before it pulls up tight, and then scrapping your assembly as you drive on it loose.

 

 

The figures you are quoting here are around 20 years out of date from the end of production.

 

And, that's exactly what is wrong with the Split Washers, ie it grips the CV long before getting full tension on the CV shaft, especially if its a used CV and washer.
 

 

 

That's because the last CV's fitted at production are no available, the material spec was different and they had 2 split pin holes to allow for the reduced elasticity of this material grade.

 

Not sure I follow your reasoning.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

Will somebody confirm for me whether the hub nut torque specs in this post are correct? 

 

In my experience if you tighten to 150 then align to the next split pin hole you will have no issues, and that is with racing slicks on an almost road weight Mini, I always use a flat washer to pull them up, it removes any issues that people would see with loose  inner bearing races, also, any wear within the assembly ie on the CV/bearing face or will kill the assembly very quickly.

 

look for a rusty stain around your CV nut area and its time to replace the CV, probably drive flange, cone washer, nut, bearing and in some case the hub, skimp on this will only hurt later.

 

Thanks but you didn't answer my question.

[AP2020]

 

 

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint

 

For the flat washer yes certainly as its just used to settle the assembly together, the concept is simple enough, it reduces the chance of the split washer clamping on the CV before it pulls up tight, and then scrapping your assembly as you drive on it loose.

 

 

The figures you are quoting here are around 20 years out of date from the end of production.

 

And, that's exactly what is wrong with the Split Washers, ie it grips the CV long before getting full tension on the CV shaft, especially if its a used CV and washer.
 

 

 

That's because the last CV's fitted at production are no available, the material spec was different and they had 2 split pin holes to allow for the reduced elasticity of this material grade.

 

Not sure I follow your reasoning.

 

 

The last Cv's produced where made from a higher grade of steel and didn't stretch under "torque" it's why stronger fixings generally have a higher torque setting, because torque applied stretches the fixing in much the same way as a bungy strap.

 

The Rover manual quotes 198 to 200 for the later models, the current CV's available are not made from this higher grade of steel, they are still acceptable but not at that torque setting.

[AP2020]

 

 

Will somebody confirm for me whether the hub nut torque specs in this post are correct? 

 

In my experience if you tighten to 150 then align to the next split pin hole you will have no issues, and that is with racing slicks on an almost road weight Mini, I always use a flat washer to pull them up, it removes any issues that people would see with loose  inner bearing races, also, any wear within the assembly ie on the CV/bearing face or will kill the assembly very quickly.

 

look for a rusty stain around your CV nut area and its time to replace the CV, probably drive flange, cone washer, nut, bearing and in some case the hub, skimp on this will only hurt later.

 

Thanks but you didn't answer my question.

 

 

They are correct to the book figures but not necessarily the best to use, see above post...

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Well it's all back together and working.  Quite a long travel on the brake pedal (all bled and rears adjusted) which I guess is because I haven't changed the rear wheel cylinders to more appropriately sized ones yet.

[cal844]

Well it's all back together and working. Quite a long travel on the brake pedal (all bled and rears adjusted) which I guess is because I haven't changed the rear wheel cylinders to more appropriately sized ones yet.

You'll need to change the rear cylinders to reduce the travel

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

How much difference does changing to the next size of wheel cylinder make to brake pedal travel?

[Spider]

How much difference does changing to the next size of wheel cylinder make to brake pedal travel?

 

( Let's see if we get interrupted with some more 'information',,,,,)

 

Going from 3/4" to 5/8" roughly raises the pedal about 20 - 25 mm

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

How much difference does changing to the next size of wheel cylinder make to brake pedal travel?

 

( Let's see if we get interrupted with some more 'information',,,,,)

 

Going from 3/4" to 5/8" roughly raises the pedal about 20 - 25 mm

 

  That'd be handy, better check for sure what ones are in there at the moment next.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

 

...makesure you use the correct grease for wheel bearings and not the normal LM

 

The workshop manuals would appear to specify multipurpose lithium grease such as Castrol LM, Duckhams LB 10 anywhere grease is used.

 

Is there a reason not to use the type of grease the manuals suggest?  It's all I've ever used in wheel bearings and they've all lasted tens of thousands of miles...

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Well been out for a decent drive to bed the brakes in gently but they got tested on a Muntjac deer so I now know they lock the front wheels.  Just shed enough speed to come off the brakes and steer round the thing.  Those deer are a menace round here, they really spoil the country roads. 

 

Lovely progressive feel to the pedal compared to drums and a servo definately isn't needed.  Just need to reduce the brake pedal travel now so I can blip the throttle while braking again.

Edited by unburntfuelinthemorning, 25 January 2020 - 12:06 PM.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I definately have 3/4" wheel cylinders so time to go shopping for 5/8" ones.

[Spider]

 

 

The workshop manuals would appear to specify multipurpose lithium grease such as Castrol LM, Duckhams LB 10 anywhere grease is used.

 

Is there a reason not to use the type of grease the manuals suggest?  It's all I've ever used in wheel bearings and they've all lasted tens of thousands of miles...

 

 

For around 30 years I was using only Castrol Grease in the Wheel Bearings.

 

A while back, BP bought Castrol and I found a marked change in the Castrol lubricants since. I don't know if this is only local to us here in Aust or if it's world wide.

 

I've since gone to Timken Wheel Bearing Grease and found it streets apart from the Castrol. The Castrol I often found burnt after 6 000 miles where as the Timken is still fesh as the day it was put in.