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Front Bike Engine Rwd Beast..............hopefully !


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#16 lchris21

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 04:40 PM

looks pretty fine to me!
I was wondering, does the zx-12 also have a back torque limiter in the clutch like the zx-10.
Isnt that an unwanted option?
If you want to "brake with the engine" wouldn't it go straight forward cause of the mass of the mini and bring damage to the clutch plates?


Do you mean a slipper clutch ???????
I dunno.
Had one in a Ducati once, and saved the back wheel locking on a number of occasions.
As regards engine braking, you gotta drive a BEC differently. Engine braking is somewhat reduced. You need to use the brakes more. You can get uprated springs which is a must for any car installation, but it tends to be the g/boxes that are vunerable when trying to stop a car with a bike engine.
The kitcar world is littered with broken bike engine gearboxes :D

#17 lchris21

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 04:42 PM

Found one of the rear end, I think that's it unless I have something else on another computer

Cheers
David


Aahh, the old sierra lump.
Brings back a few memories. Used to work in the Ford plant that made them many moons ago

#18 jonas

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 05:00 PM

yes, slipper clutch :D
So the slipper clutch may have the advantage to not brake the gearbox.
I've never driven a bec but i understand the small engine can't stop the car like a normal engine. That isnt the purpose of the bike engine.
My hornet 600 doesn't brake much with the engine so a bike engine in a car definitly wont.
thanks

#19 lchris21

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 02:11 PM

Not much to report on the progress, so far.
Funny thing, since the arrival of the Mini, the list of household chores as suddenly grown :thumbsup:
Anyway I've added an important tool to my armoury in readiness for the work. Wow what a difference, compared to your hobby/halfrauds type MIG. This thing rocks !!!!!!



First up will be the sills, by the looks. A quick prod with a screwdriver has revealed the inners are shot. The outers don't seem too bad, but I don't know if they are or how to tell if they are oversills. Anyone ????????

As regards panels. Best options ?????

As regards inners sills. Floor change as well ????



In the meantime the hunt for bits goes on, and on, and on................................................................

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#20 R1mini

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 02:53 PM

Original sills are about 4.5" deep, the cover sills are 9", to do a good job on the inner sills would normally require the outer sills to be replaced, usually they rust out together so it seems that the outers have possibly already been replaced

Original panels are best but I've used Veng and Hadrian panels with good success, you can buy non genuine inner sills seperatly that covers most of the rust you normally find, you would only need to replace the entire floor if the area is totally rotten

You must fully weld any part panel like the inner sills and the non genuine sills, the original sills can be spot or stitch welded

Cheers
David

Edited by R1mini, 03 February 2008 - 02:57 PM.


#21 lchris21

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 04:06 PM

Original sills are about 4.5" deep, the cover sills are 9", to do a good job on the inner sills would normally require the outer sills to be replaced, usually they rust out together so it seems that the outers have possibly already been replaced

Original panels are best but I've used Veng and Hadrian panels with good success, you can buy non genuine inner sills seperatly that covers most of the rust you normally find, you would only need to replace the entire floor if the area is totally rotten

You must fully weld any part panel like the inner sills and the non genuine sills, the original sills can be spot or stitch welded

Cheers
David


Looks like I got oversill then if thats the case. Measure accross the longest span (sloping side) its about 8-9". Looks like I've lost a corner of the step also. Full sill/step/floor rebuild tis then :thumbsup:

#22 lchris21

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 09:42 PM

Picked up quite an important part of the puzzle today.

6speed, 12000 rpm, 178BHP and 130Nm of torque !!!!!!!!!!

Should make the Mini go a bit then.......................... :angel:

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Edited by lchris21, 07 February 2008 - 09:43 PM.


#23 Willow

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 02:38 PM

looking to do something similar - which bike is that???

Been looking at shaft drive engines - how you planning to get the power back there???

I can see 2 options - quaife do a diff that has a sprocket arrangement on it, you could chain drive to the diff then have a shaft between the 2 diffs or generate a transfer box some how that runs a shaft back to the diff

Going to follow this with great interest!

#24 mighty mini jack

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 02:40 PM

looking to do something similar - which bike is that???

Been looking at shaft drive engines - how you planning to get the power back there???

I can see 2 options - quaife do a diff that has a sprocket arrangement on it, you could chain drive to the diff then have a shaft between the 2 diffs or generate a transfer box some how that runs a shaft back to the diff

Going to follow this with great interest!

Its a Zx12r

#25 lchris21

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 04:13 PM

looking to do something similar - which bike is that???

Been looking at shaft drive engines - how you planning to get the power back there???

I can see 2 options - quaife do a diff that has a sprocket arrangement on it, you could chain drive to the diff then have a shaft between the 2 diffs or generate a transfer box some how that runs a shaft back to the diff

Going to follow this with great interest!


The last chain that engine is gonna drive is on the bike at the mo. If, and I say If I ever get to the bottom of the growing list of domestic chores, I'm going to diff (Freelander, MX5 ????) the back end along with my own IRS tied into the roll cage/body shell. Mount engine in a North/South configuration and jam a prop shaft up the middle of the Min. Sorted :thumbsup:

#26 Willow

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 07:46 AM

won't this put added stress on the gbox?

had considered that as an option but ruled it out early on - possibly as i didn't think the engine would go in that way but never say never!!!!

#27 lchris21

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 04:01 PM

See pics posted in previous messages on this thread and you'll see you can just about shoe horn a ZX12 into the engine bay :P

As for stress. Why would a chain drive subject the g/box to less stress? Surely its go to shift the same amount of weight around ?

Agreed, bike engines in cars are a major gearbox buster, but as for weight, I'm planning on putting my project on a strict diet. Curb weight for a mini is mid 600kg'ish. By the time you lose the A series, the interior, fibreglass front end and various other odds and sods, should hoefully get it easily under the 600kg mark.

ZX12 motors are reknowned for their torque producing potential and strong boxes. Alot of the kitcar fraternity (which I'm more familiar with) have used all sorts of bike engines in all sorts of cars and with Blades, R1's and lately Zx12's gaining favour. Even the lightest Se7en reps struggle to get in the low 500kg's class and there's tonnes of em around happily being propelled by bike engines.

I have though about this.......................................................... ;)

#28 R1mini

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 05:09 PM

won't this put added stress on the gbox?

had considered that as an option but ruled it out early on - possibly as i didn't think the engine would go in that way but never say never!!!!



I've poked around various bike engines including the ZX12r and the gears are huge... granted some of the 1 litre engines the gears can be a bit narrow looking but they can still take a lot of abuse.

It's a good idea to keep the car weight to a minimun anyway though

Cheers
David

#29 Willow

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 10:02 AM

won't this put added stress on the gbox?

had considered that as an option but ruled it out early on - possibly as i didn't think the engine would go in that way but never say never!!!!



I've poked around various bike engines including the ZX12r and the gears are huge... granted some of the 1 litre engines the gears can be a bit narrow looking but they can still take a lot of abuse.

It's a good idea to keep the car weight to a minimun anyway though

Cheers
David



Excellent advice thanks!

#30 lchris21

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Posted 03 May 2008 - 06:02 PM

Its been a while.............................................but finally made some progress. :w00t:
After working my way through the endless domestic chores and banging in the overtime to pay for the toys I finally freed up some time to progress the project.
Not directly affecting the mini but an important part none the less. Did a little open heart surgery on the ZX12 today.

Anyone got a big shoe horn I can lend :wub:

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Edited by lchris21, 10 May 2008 - 03:03 PM.





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