So, I've started the prep-work for the new sounds install. First thing to take care of is the horrible tinny roof. As the roof lining wasn't there when I bought Fern it makes things a lot easier. I'm going to start putting a step by step guide on what I do so hopefully anyone else interested can see how I've done things and learn from my trial and error mistakes I may make along the way (hopefully none!).
1. I started off buying 4 x 2'x4' sheets of 3mm MDF and some spray-on contact adhesive.
2. Remove all the old adhesive from the roof. (after 3-4 hours and very sore fingers!). Cellulose thinners removes the thin stuff pretty well.
3. Test fit a sheet of corrugated cardboard to get the correct measurements and make sure the roof liner bars clear the wood
(see pic 2)4. Cut the MDF sheet to length (I went for 1000mm x 2')
5. The tricky bit next is to measure the supports you'll need, I did this by pushing the mdf up as tight as it could go and measuring the distance between the wood and the gap between the tunnel and the seat floor bar then subrtacting the thickness of the pads either end. This will depend on the thickness of pad you use, I had some old pallet wood laying around so used that. The pad on the roof should run the length of the mdf. I also put in a support in the middle on top of the tunnel. (SEE PICS)
6. Trial fit everything before you glue anything to make sure everything fits properly because once you've sprayed the glue there's no turning back. Mark the roof with a pencil/permanent marker at the edge nearest the middle of the car for a reference line when you come to glue it in.
7. Get everything ready to go by the car.
8. Wipe the whole roof down to make sure all traces of the old glue are gone
(pic 1) . I used Cellulose thinners. (careful you dont rub too hard as the paint can be thin)
9. Key the side of the mdf you're going to spray with some sandpaper, removing all dust, and spray a layer of glue over the whole surface. Make sure the edges are sprayed well.
10. Wait 1-2 mins & spray a 2nd layer
11. CAREFULLY manouver the mdf inside the car and into position (it's quite tricky to not stick to anything when getting into position). Put the edge closest the interior light up first and stick it to the roof from that side to the other.
12. Put the supports in the passenger side first, then the middle and, after you get out of the car (critical or you'll be stuck!), put in the drivers side supports. Make sure there is enough pressure on the mdf to push it up into the arch of the roof (not too much to cause dents). I slid the bottom pads under each other as a kind of wedge to force it up more.
13. Depending on temperature, leave it to dry. I was actually on holiday for 4 days so I had no worries.
14. Once dry remove the supports and continue with the rest of the roof.
When I removed the supports the mdf was stuck fast with no movement. Even with 1/4 of the process done the difference in sound when you tap the roof is huge. Cant wait to have the whole thing done!
All thats left to do now is to measure and fit the rear piece and then laminate the second layer over top. For the second layer I'll be putting 1 piece over the middle then 2 smaller ones at either end. Then finally I can fit the roof liner and hey presto sound deadend roof that looks the same.
Edited by Brams96, 07 October 2009 - 05:26 AM.