217 replies to this topic

[Teapot]

Can't wait to see it finished. How much will the total mdf weigh? How much more efficient than second skin sludge + conventional sound pads?

[Brams96]

It is only 1 8ft x 4ft piece of 3mm MDF so it only weighs a couple of Kgs. Basically at the end it will be 6mm thick so will completely change the resonant and reflective properties of the roof. Not sure how it will cmpare to sound mat as I have never done a roof wit that before.
The next thing on the list will be the doors. Sound mat on the inside of the outer skin then MDF pieces glued into the holes to create a sealed enclosure then I'll cut a hole behind where the door speaker pod will go. Should sound really good as I have done this in the past with good results.

Note to self: Make sure i put the central locking in first!

[Brams96]

Bought a HIF44 from the Bobbing Car Breakers yard today for £25 and a dipping mirror from an old escort for a fiver. The carb will clean up nicely for the 1330 when it goes in and the mirror will be adapted to fit onto the mini's mirror arm. The roof will be getting the second layer of mdf tomorrow, correction today (look at the time!) and then it's onto the doors.

Edited by Brams96, 16 October 2009 - 12:47 AM.

[Brams96]

My parts arrived the other day so I can fit them now. I added the lower engine brace, from the speedo housing to subfreme, and it was actually quite easy as the hole in the subframe was already there, bonus.
While under there I decided to see what was banging when I put my foot on then off the accelerator. I found the exhaust mounting bracket from the dif housing broken into 3 pieces! Luckily I had another from the other gearbox so I swapped them then went for a drive. Surprise surprise, no more knocking and it actually feels smoother accelerating and decelerating with the brace on now. Thats 1 less thing to do, sweet

Exhaust bracket:

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Edited by Brams96, 20 October 2009 - 12:25 PM.

[Brams96]

Progress today. I glued in the second layer in the middle of the roof which is drying as we speak. I also made up the small pieces need to go at the front of the roof so I can put the second layer over it tomorrow (today). I trial fitted the mirror today and it looks like it will work a treat, all I need to do is get a sticky pad and attach it.
The HIF44 carb from the Metro Auto is now all clean and I also have the HS4 back together. I had forgotten how it all went back together so had to trial fit everything until I figured it out. The return spring was the biggest problem, trying to figure out where it attached to to make the arm return properly. All I need now is some new gaskets for the HIF and to paint the bell and it's ready to fit.
I also masked up the rear passenger bin today. I used cardboard to make a small gap on the outer panel so it gives enough clearance for the sound mat that will be going there. It took about an hour to cut all the cardboard and half a roll of tape. Tomorrow I will start fiberglassing the outside enclosure & once I have a mould I can remove it and strengthen it.

[Brams96]

Not much today just glued in the small pieces at the front ready for tomorrow so I can put in the second layer. Just need to buy some more glue as I ran out. Should get time to polish the last con rod tonight at work if I'm not too busy.

[Brams96]

DAMN, damn, damn. The second layer didn't stick on the sides! I think it's because I didn't rough up both sides when I sprayed the glue. I think the best option is pulling the whole second layer down and trying some different glue like REALLY strong PVA, its either that or drill through the second layer only and inject the glue that way. It's only the side bits where it curves that haven't stuck properly so i'm seriously considering option 2, I just dont want to try that then have to pull it all down and start again. Hmmm.

Edited by Brams96, 20 October 2009 - 12:30 PM.

[Mini-Mad-Craig]

Sounds good mate.

[Brams96]

I drilled a series of small (4mm) holes in the second layer, about 12 each side, and then squirted PVA wood glue into them and set up the bracing again. I'll leave it for 2-3 days before removing the braces and see how it looks from there, fingers crossed.
I also started on the fiberglassing of the sub box using the donor car as a template. Hopefully the mould will come off the masking tape without too much trouble. Once it comes off I can strengthen the inside and trial fit it to Fern. I'm contemplating using a metal bar accross the back to make it more rigid and stop and flexing there might be as that side will be directly opposite the back of the sub and id quite a large single piece. I must take some pics and put them up.
I finished polishing the 3rd conrod and started on the 4th last night so will try to do more on them tonight.

Here's a cople of pics of the roof.

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Edited by Brams96, 20 October 2009 - 12:30 PM.

[Teapot]

Keep on keeping on! More pictures when you can, please

[Brams96]

I checked the fiberglassing I did on the sub box and wasn't impressed. It was still sticky after a day of drying, I know it's colder these days but it shouls have hardened by now. So out with the old & in with the new. I ripped out what I'd done and re-masked the area ready for tomorrow. I have the next 3 days off so want to get a lot done on the box, barring lawn mowing, door frame stripping, plastering painting, etc, etc.....
I've left the roof for now to dry another day and will remove the supports tomorrow at some stage, fingers crossed it will be ok otherwise I'll be pulling it all down and starting again. It should be Ok.
I recieved the LED ultra bright lights today and tried them straight on an old battery & . . . COOL! I then tried them inside a rear light lense with good results. I think I will use them for the indicators as they will quite easily fit inside the lenses and are brighter than the normal bulbs. Again Pic will be posted as I go.

[Brams96]

The LED's & how it might look as an indicator (different shape though). I still want to put some LED's under the dash as interior lights.

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Edited by Brams96, 20 October 2009 - 12:36 PM.

[Brams96]

and a couple of where the sub box is going to go.

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[Brams96]

Well as all projects do mine has changed slightly again. I decided to build as much of the sub box out of 12mm MDF as I could. So far I have constructed the very bottom of the bin to make sure I have the required volume (it only needs 16 odd litres, brilliant!). It may need to change slightly by way of shaving a bit off so I can get the box in. Box Bottom pic
I've also made the front of the box where the sub will fit, I actually did this first as I need to see where other parts would fit. I had to cut a 4-5" line down part of the metal outside of the bin but nothing to drastic. I have a feeling I might need to make as much of the box as possible and then build the rest in place in the car. The top near the window is going to be a 'challange' as that is where it will secure to the body, I have a rough idea of what I will do but I'll have to see how everything turns out.
If any one is interested in the dimensions to build their own then just let me know and I will do a diagram with all the measurements. Baring in mind I am planning on putting a very shallow sub in this box. I'm going to use a Sony XS-L10S driven with about 250-300Wrms. More pics to follow tomorrow.

Edited by Brams96, 22 October 2009 - 07:48 PM.

[Brams96]

I have spent a few hours in the garage over the last couple of days and apart from running out of mdf I nearly have a finished product. There are so many different little angles and pieces needing to be filed so they sit flat to others it was quite time consuming. All that is left to do is add a little piece over the wheel arch and probably 2 strips of mdf across the back. Then its just a case of pulling it all apart, glueing it and screwing it back together before coating the whole inside with resin. Easy really. I decided against fiberglass as I thought the mdf would be stronger.
I somehow need to work out the volume too. I thought putting a couple of sealed plastic bags in and filling them wit a measured amount of water might do the trick. I'll think about that one.
One semi-major thing I will have to do is modify the back of the rear seat as the piece that goes over the wheel arch no longer can do that. The base is fine, just a little tighter than it was before. It should be just a case of cutting the piece out and welding the bars back together to form a straight line and hopefully just reclipping the upholstery behind it, I dont really want to have to pay to get them retrimmed at this stage. Both sides will need doing as the drivers side will probably house the amp but not sure yet it might end up in the boot.
Enough rambling here are some pics.

You might be able to see in the fourth pic the circles I drew on the box, the largest is actually 12" soI might even be able to fit in a 12" if it is the same depth. That would be cool!

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Edited by Brams96, 22 October 2009 - 08:02 PM.