#31
Posted 13 October 2015 - 11:11 PM
I've got some of these on the way http://pages.ebay.co...2870091&alt=web
I've also already got some bilt hamber hydrate 80 and the gel rust treatment I could use?
#32
Posted 15 October 2015 - 11:31 AM
Thanks for that, I'm in Baildon so only about 20mins away.
Very local. Our club meets first Wednesday of the month at the halfway house - https://www.facebook...955676/?fref=ts
#33
Posted 15 October 2015 - 03:09 PM
Very local. Our club meets first Wednesday of the month at the halfway house - https://www.facebook...955676/?fref=tsThanks for that, I'm in Baildon so only about 20mins away.
Cool thanks I've requested to join
#34
Posted 15 October 2015 - 03:20 PM
What do you recommend for cleaning the floors up (to assess damage). Most of it is just rust staining.
I've got some of these on the way http://pages.ebay.co...2870091&alt=web
I've also already got some bilt hamber hydrate 80 and the gel rust treatment I could use?
Those twisted wire cups will be ideal for cleaning the floor with. Do remember to use decent safety goggles, gloves and overalls. The bits of wire hurt......a lot.
#35
Posted 15 October 2015 - 08:24 PM
I managed to get myself a Clarke Pro 90 mig welder on eBay (£56) too so I'm going to go for it. What's the worst that can happen?
This weekend I'll clean up the drivers side floor and post my findings.
#36
Posted 15 October 2015 - 08:50 PM
Deox Gel is great for getting into seams or pitted rust that the wire brush or power file can't reach, and even my Dremel gets used occasionally to get the last bits out. Deox C is great if you can remove the part and put it in the solution for a few days.
#37
Posted 15 October 2015 - 08:51 PM
Well the worst that can happen is the welds will be too weak soooooooo plenty of practise first with 0.9mm thick steel. With metal this thin its better to pulse weld and once mastered your welds can look like this
It looks like a seam weld but its not. Ideal for welding thin metal and less chance of blowing holes.
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