#31
Posted 08 February 2016 - 09:18 PM
The ideal for the rear is zero to 0.5 degreen negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe-in.
#32
Posted 04 March 2016 - 09:39 PM
Oh, I say, absolutely spiffing, what!
I love that 1960's look complete with cravat. To think I wore that sort of get-up when I was young in the late 50's and early '60's and first got into Minis and other 1960's cars. First car was a 1950 Ford 3.6 litre V8 Pilot - Google that for a laugh.
No 'Negative Camber' silliness back then .
Yesteryear for some of us "youngsters" and yesterday for others eh Peter ??? lol
#33
Posted 04 March 2016 - 09:47 PM
have been using rose jointed tie bars and bottom arms for .... erm lots of years and I have not had any issues with this accelerated wear people continually speak of
Quote
Front needs to be 1 to 1.5 negative with 3 to 3.5 degs castor and 1 mm to 2 mm toe-out ğufor best road-holding combined with good handling. That is with 10" or 12" wheels.
The ideal for the rear is zero to 0.5 degreen negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe-in.
Unquote
Good figures take note people.
To add to this pot then, if you chose to go down the route of rose jointed front end then you can almost dial out tow out to 0.25 degree's, 0.5 degree's for camber and 2.5 to 3.5 castor dependant on how heavy light you want the steering, all on the front and then copy Peter's figures for the rear.
The advantages of rose jointed front suspension...
1) reduce under steer
2) better traction
3) better braking
4) less tyre wear.... but who cares about that one.
Rose joints apparently wear out quicker ? this is a rubbish myth spoken by those who have never actually bothered to fit sealing boots on their rose joints or who have just heard others speak the same myth.
A few negatives...
1) Costly.
2) will create a little extra noise.
3) will need setting up.
4) a strange facial pain, caused by the massive grin as you turn in on a roundabout and actually go round it at previously impossible speeds.
Edited by MRA, 04 March 2016 - 09:51 PM.
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