52 replies to this topic

[Jupitus]

Hi Guys!

As many of you will know, I am making a brand new custom loom for TMF long time member Teapot's pride and joy, Huey. After many delays and a few setbacks, work hassles and brain ache, I am now close to finishing. Designs are done, a secret loom building device is in play, Teapot has measured up a template for me in Huey to confirm most dimensions and I am busy measuring, cutting, crimping, soldering and heatshrinking to put it all together.

I am asking you guys to help me get Teapot back on this forum as he has taken a break until Huey's loom is finished, so PLEASE help me with what may be simple confirmations or even daft questions so I can make sure when this gets sent to Teapot-land it fits Huey snugly and works first time! I know you won't let me down

So - the basic design is to use newer thinwall cable for it's higher ampage rating giving a lighter loom, but to offest that by running more wire making the design simpler to understand later in life. I am using an 8-way fusebox with an approximate 4/4 split in terms of permanent live vs switched live. I plan to run 11 amp wire from the starter solenoid to each fuse with 2 wires per ring terminal at the solenoid, meaning 2 ring terminals for each of permanent and switched sources.

The first question (of many, possibly) might be a silly one ...



On the solenoid, am I right in thinking that the post with the added spade terminals is the switched live, and the post without is the battery connection? Also, does anyone know the diameter of ring terminal needed to connect onto the posts?

Thanks!

*wanders off to cut and crimp the brakelights*

[sixwheeler]

Post with the spade terminals is the battery connection - hence the spade connections, from the alternator.

The other post is for the starter cable, this is obviously only live when the solenoid is active - i.e turning over the engine.

[Jupitus]

Ah ok - thanks! And the smaller spade terminal, presumably, gets the trigger for the solenoid from the ignition switch... ?

[sixwheeler]

Ah ok - thanks! And the smaller spade terminal, presumably, gets the trigger for the solenoid from the ignition switch... ?

That will be the one between the two posts.

Free Tip:
When working on engine and you want to turn it over or even start it, remove the wire from this terminal and connect a short length of wire (female spade one end and bare the other) to it and then to turn the engine over, just touch the bare end on the battery post. Obviously, to start it, the ignition needs to be on.

[Dan]

You do know that the solenoid doesn't have a switched live source of power don't you? It sounds from your first post as though you are trying to take the switched live supplies to the various ignition live circuits from the solenoid starter terminal which is only live while cranking.

[Jupitus]

You do know that the solenoid doesn't have a switched live source of power don't you? It sounds from your first post as though you are trying to take the switched live supplies to the various ignition live circuits from the solenoid starter terminal which is only live while cranking.

Thanks Dan - yes I do - I was being a bit numpty... what I an trying to do is find an elegant way to avoid splices and such, but now I will need to run the heavy white to the fuse box and daisy chain it. I may splice it down into 11amp wires along the run and then have 4 11 amp spades to the fusebox....

[Dan]

Try looking at different sources of electrical parts. Pole Volt for example sell various fuse boxes with bussed inputs that would only require one connection for multiple fuses.

[yorkshirechris]

The ring terminal you need is 8.5mm and I have about 100 of them sat in a box if you want me to send you some. They're the yellow insulated type but the yellow plastic insulation is easily removed if you would rather do so.

[Dan]

Bear in mind that pre-insulated terminals use the plastic cover as the insulation crimp and don't have one in the metal part unlike non-insulated trminals which have a seperate insulation crimp. A pre-insulated terminal crimped on with the plastic removed is only crimped to the cable core and so is less secure than it should be.

[Jupitus]

Thanks very much guys - I only saw those pole volt fuse boxes a few days ago - I'm thinking more and more that I may ditch the one I have in favour of the bussed input which makes things far more elegant than daisy chaining etc etc... regarding the terminals, I have been using the more expensive variety together with the more expensive 'pro' criming pliers and buying in large numbers myself to keep the cost reasonable, but no disrespect to yorkshirechris, as I really admire his efforts to provide a service by buying in bulk and keeping prices down for fellow mini owners!

[Jupitus]

Next question (thanks for bearing with me!)... in a pickup, where would the fuel tank be relative to the n/s or o/s light clusters please? I am starting to suspect Huey has had a replacement loom from a saloon at some point as the old loom had a sender coloured wite marked 'not used' and another marked as the sender (but in the wrong colour, of course)

[sixwheeler]

Fuel tank is biased to the off side, with the sender pointing to the front.

The sender is roughly in the in the middle, but towards the O/s and about 10" in from the back of the vehicle.

The loom I guess runs to the back, down the N/S post and into the rear valance.

[Jupitus]

Thanks alot, SixW - given the contradiction I have, for now, allowed enough cable run to reach the o/s light cluster with a bit to spare. If push comes to shove I can ask Teapot to finish that part, but if you are able to dome up with definitive routing of the wire and measurements that would be exceptionally cool!

[sixwheeler]

I don't know the dimensions off hand seeing as mine is a metre or so (must measure it one day) longer than normal and I also had to make most of it up as I went along.

The sender wire will go along the back, down the corner post, through the floor, into the valance and back out of the valance on the N/S through a grommit, then allow a metre to reach the sender.

I don't suggest that any connectors are put on the the rear section of loom as getting the wires though the valance to the O/S is quite a game - unless the valance is removed which is the sensible way to do it, but I'm not that sensible.

[Jupitus]

I don't know the dimensions off hand seeing as mine is a metre or so (must measure it one day) longer than normal and I also had to make most of it up as I went along.

The sender wire will go along the back, down the corner post, through the floor, into the valance and back out of the valance on the N/S through a grommit, then allow a metre to reach the sender.

I don't suggest that any connectors are put on the the rear section of loom as getting the wires though the valance to the O/S is quite a game - unless the valance is removed which is the sensible way to do it, but I'm not that sensible.

OK - Given that I am going to leave that available for precise fitting - ie leave it up to Teapot to sort out!!!