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Best Performance Coil And Distributor


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#31 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 10:41 PM

Kit 1 wheel does not need any work by yourself as it bolt to the existing holes that are located on some pulleys. All you have to do is set your engine at TDC, remove the bottom pulley and fit the kit. The bolt holes that are in the pulley and trigger wheel then line up with TDC. So you can still set your timing and run your car without fitting the Megajolt.


Thanks for that, just one other thing:

Just to make absolutly sure, is it perfectly and works perfectly, to use a megajolt set up on a carb running mini? Just a little doubt I have in the back of my mind.


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#32 Steve D

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 10:52 PM

Yes mate it is perfectly and works perfectly, to use a megajolt set up on a car running on a carb set up. All a megajolt is a set up which lets you map your advance. So your timing is correct throughtout your rev band.

#33 cng1

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 11:14 PM

Kit 1 wheel does not need any work by yourself as it bolt to the existing holes that are located on some pulleys. All you have to do is set your engine at TDC, remove the bottom pulley and fit the kit. The bolt holes that are in the pulley and trigger wheel then line up with TDC.


Hmm. So kit 1 is only effectively of use on the 10% (based on the stash of pulleys that I have here) that have the bolt holes. What do you suggest people do with the "crud guard" fitted to the rear of most pulleys? Hammer it off with a chisel, grind the welds off or do you have some other plan?

Also on kit 2 are you modifying a standard hamonic damper pulley to have the teeth in or are you making a new one from scratch with a new rubber insert?

#34 Steve D

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 11:19 PM

Kit 1 wheel does not need any work by yourself as it bolt to the existing holes that are located on some pulleys. All you have to do is set your engine at TDC, remove the bottom pulley and fit the kit. The bolt holes that are in the pulley and trigger wheel then line up with TDC.


Hmm. So kit 1 is only effectively of use on the 10% (based on the stash of pulleys that I have here) that have the bolt holes. What do you suggest people do with the "crud guard" fitted to the rear of most pulleys? Hammer it off with a chisel, grind the welds off or do you have some other plan?

Also on kit 2 are you modifying a standard hamonic damper pulley to have the teeth in or are you making a new one from scratch with a new rubber insert?



Use kit 2 which is a whole new pulley.

#35 cng1

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 11:26 PM

Use kit 2 which is a whole new pulley.


A whole new pulley complete with harmonic damper or a solid, undamped pulley?

#36 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 05:43 PM

Yes mate it is perfectly and works perfectly, to use a megajolt set up on a car running on a carb set up. All a megajolt is a set up which lets you map your advance. So your timing is correct throughtout your rev band.


Ok thanks, megajolt it is then.

#37 cng1

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 11:23 PM

For people who have the common non-bolted pulley and want to retain the harmonic damper this looks like it may be an option:
http://trigger-wheel.../en-uk/d30.html

#38 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 09:49 AM

For people who have the common non-bolted pulley and want to retain the harmonic damper this looks like it may be an option:
http://trigger-wheel.../en-uk/d30.html


Thats look good, nice idea.

#39 rozzer1275

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 01:15 PM

home bodged pully and trigger wheel

Attached Files



#40 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 03:25 PM

home bodged pully and trigger wheel


Looks good, how did you make the trigger wheel?




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