custom colours
Started by
bristolminimad
, Jul 23 2005 08:52 PM
44 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 July 2005 - 08:52 PM
hi all, as most of you know i'm a car refinisher (painter) and i'm here to answer all your queistions on painting your car! from priming it, up to mad paint schemes, any questions post it on here and i'll reply as soon as i can!
#2
Posted 23 July 2005 - 08:54 PM
how hard is a re-spray? i need one a.s.a.p and i have a small budget, how much will it cost? cheers
#3
Posted 23 July 2005 - 08:59 PM
if you took your car to a reputable garage they will charge around £1200 for a full repaint depending on what you want, you can do it at home with a aerosol can but the finish is not as good as a spray gun, if you say what you want done i might be able to do a deal for you!
#4
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:00 PM
Hi mate.
Just posted my car in the projects bit, following a temp scuttle repair.
Currently the scuttle is in primer, do you have any tips and how good a finish can i do with cans?
Also, standard plastic arches. Can they be painted to a good finish being that they are textured?
Cheers.
Just posted my car in the projects bit, following a temp scuttle repair.
Currently the scuttle is in primer, do you have any tips and how good a finish can i do with cans?
Also, standard plastic arches. Can they be painted to a good finish being that they are textured?
Cheers.
#5
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:08 PM
as long as your car isn't a metalic you can do it with aerosol, lightly spray a black coat over the primer, let that dry and rub over it with p.800 wet and dry paper, until the black has all gone(do this to make sure the panel is flat and makes sure there are no pin holes in the primer!)fully dry the panel, mask any thing you don't want to get paint on, just remember, 99% of the work is in the preperation! give two or 3 even coats leaving 10 mins between coats.
as for the arches, if you rub these down with light sand paper, then use a filler primer(quite a heavy primer fills all the little holes) once you've done that use the same method as what you've done for the scuttle!
as for the arches, if you rub these down with light sand paper, then use a filler primer(quite a heavy primer fills all the little holes) once you've done that use the same method as what you've done for the scuttle!
Edited by bristolminimad, 25 July 2005 - 06:56 PM.
#6
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:14 PM
Cool.
Many thanks, I'll stick some pics up when i'm done.
Many thanks, I'll stick some pics up when i'm done.
#7
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:16 PM
that would be good, cheers!
#8
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:50 PM
Is it easy to do metallic with a compressor? Particullarily Tahiti Blue...
#9
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:56 PM
it depends what compresor!? you need a constant presure of around 4-5 bar to paint, so you need a store of about 50L, if you got a good compresor then yeah it's do able! as with all metalics, you paint the base colour then the clear coat, just remember 99%of the work is in the preperation! take your time and it should be ok!
#10
Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:24 PM
yo, i was thinking of repainting my 82 mini, what would be a good prep if i keep the orginal paint as a base??
#11
Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:34 PM
providing it's just a repaint p.800 grade paper all over would be fine, if you got repairs or new panels p.400 the new or primed repaired panels then p.800 and that should be fine! i'll post proper threads tomorrow when i got some more time! you didn't say if you were painting it a solid colour or metalic?
Edited by bristolminimad, 25 July 2005 - 07:02 PM.
#12
Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:35 PM
Here's one...
I use Celly to do most of my spraying, but over filled sections you can get 'shadowing'(?) of the filler in the top coat.. I've been told the only real way round this is to use a 2pac primer to act as a barrier coat.. but does this not cause an issue with the cyanide and home use ?
or is there an alternative ?
I use Celly to do most of my spraying, but over filled sections you can get 'shadowing'(?) of the filler in the top coat.. I've been told the only real way round this is to use a 2pac primer to act as a barrier coat.. but does this not cause an issue with the cyanide and home use ?
or is there an alternative ?
#13
Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:42 PM
that's a hard one! if you rub the area affected down using p.400 and then grade paper, use a 2pac primer and roller it on in thin coats, this will stop the shaddowing in the paint. before you apply the top coat rub down the primer with p.800 grade paper. it will form a good base to paint over! as for cyanide this hasn't been in paint for about 10 years! it is still common in celly as it's old technology! even 2pac paint is getting out of date! water based paint is the way forward, we only use that in work now, but as you can guess, you can't have a water based clear coat cus it would wash away in the rain.
Edited by bristolminimad, 25 July 2005 - 07:04 PM.
#14
Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:48 PM
as for home use, it's ok to use it aslong as your not spraying into the air all the time and it's only very occasionally you do it, it does raise health fears though! if you do paint at home with 2pac or celly, make sure you do it in a well ventilated area and you waer a mask(not a comedy one a fine particle dust mask) and avoide gettin it in your eyes and remember paint goes every where so mask every thing you don't want painted up!
#15
Posted 23 July 2005 - 11:02 PM
pretty much the same, red with a white roof, its already had a 2pack paint job though will this matter?
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