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Mini Trailer


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#1 998dave

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 10:32 PM

Hey people.

I collected a very tired looking shell from another forum member over the weekend, and unfortunately it's well beyond repair, so I'm going to make a trailer out of it.

Will be cutting at rear of door opening, and dropping the roof down to make a lid, also cutting out back seat, pockets and parcel shelf, removing brakes, and drums and replacing with spacers, and marking up the trailer as per legal regulations...

Now I've some ideas for things to build into or add to the trailer, but if you were going to build one, what would you include.
We're thinking here, in particular, of a camping trailer...

- Standard trailer connection to car so it can be hooked onto anything.
- A 'trailer only' battery will be kept in battery box.
- Second lead to charge battery from car when connected.

- Fully matched in colour and trim to the tow car.
- Gas struts to hold up lid when opened.

If you've any ideas, or can think of anything that would be handy, then just let me know!
Also, if you've built a trailer, please let me know of any particular issues or advice.

Posted Image

Hope to have it done over the winter so it can come to shows next year, I'll start a project thread when I get started...

Dave

#2 cambiker71

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 10:55 PM

I'd try to avoid the flat front look maybe use part of the roof as a curved panel? Keep the seat back in place and convert the boot to something useful like a pull out cooker or more importantly a beer fridge, the seat area is ideal for carrying all your stuff, just like normal show visits without a trailer!!

#3 jayare

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 12:36 AM

How about making the front panel and draw-bar removable, keep the seat foams in place and when you get to the camp-site you have a ready-made sofa!

by the way I've PM'd you about a panel from the 'left-overs' - hope you don't mind.

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#4 dave21478

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 06:25 AM

Why not use the front of the mini to make the front of the trailer?
Someone on a local forum is doing this....
Posted Image

I have a shell and might make a trailer once the van is finished. If I do though, I wont use the mini subframe. You want the trailer to be as light as possible so its easy to tow and has more load capacity. A standard mini rear subframe and radius arms is a lot of weight for no real gain. I will get some unbraked indespension style suspenson unit/hubs and use them instead. They will need mountings made, but the overall result will be a decent weight saving.

#5 Bungle

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 07:12 AM

have a look in the any other projects section at the mini caravan for ideas

#6 998dave

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 08:31 AM

Thanks Dave & Bungle,

I was originally going to go with standard subframe purely for ease of assembly, I have the subframe, with everything it'd need, the radius arms are the heavy parts. The subframe also gives a nice solid mount for the tow bar and hitch, and will give it some rigidity.

I haven't got the front, unfortunately, it was beyond any sort of repair with masses of corrosion, dents and holes.

I'm liking the idea of matching the front of the roof to make the front of the lid, just wonder how hard it'll be to make the front panel follow the same curve. I guess this is why they're often flat fronted...

Dave

Edited by 998dave, 25 November 2008 - 08:32 AM.


#7 Danny3320

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 09:25 AM

this is mine trailer needs restorin

might help for where to cut it

Posted Image

Posted Image

#8 emalee

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 10:29 AM

here is the thread showing the build of my trailer
http://www.theminifo...x...3&hl=trevor

hope it helps

#9 Bean

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 10:31 AM

That shell's in better condition than my 25, lol :)

#10 998dave

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 10:59 AM

Thanks guys,
I've read all the trailer threads on here, borrowing thoughts and ideas as I go along.

bean - The front really isn't in good condition, there's nothing left in front of the bulkhead, and even that's rotten, the window frame is corroded through, as are the A-panels and most of the front of the floor, you just can't see it in these pictures.

Emalee - I notice with Trevor you used two roofs, is there insufficient width on a single roof? I can't quite work out the perspective on mine, but do intend to have it curved, they look unfinished when flat on the top.

Danny - I'm going to cut it at the rear edge of the door to get the maximum length, and then I'll drop the roof onto it, and work out where to cut that to match, not this may mean taking a bit more as there's a sunroof aperture to contend with. I'll measure before I start.

I like the A-frame shaped to bar, rather then a single pole, did this come off anything in particular, or is it just angle iron again?

For the front I was thinking of taking the normal cross member and welding it back in at the trailer leading edge, then having two vertical supports to help support the hinges on the angle iron bracing across the front, down through the front of the crossmember. Then a stiff panel on this behind the flat front, with mounting points for a spare wheel to break up the front a bit. I'll also have to add my electrical connector here somewhere.

Dave

#11 brightpink

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 11:18 AM

we have a trailer you mite have seen it at a few shows its yellow.

we left the back shelf in but cut everything else out and added a metal bar to the front for strenght. we have a lesuire battery under a wooden floor. It has a flat front and a flat chequer plate top, and pond liner for waterproofing, Im a bit biased but it looks great. i think the sub frame was kept to attach the tow bar to. ill post some pics if i can find some.

#12 Danny3320

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 11:26 AM

i dont no about the A frame i bought it as it looks i think its homemade tho

#13 998dave

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 11:32 AM

Danny, I think so too, they all are, though P&L now do fibreglass tubs for them.

Bright pink, seems fair enough, I was hoping to patch all my holes to make the trailer waterproof in it's own right, with a rubber seam round the boot and lid apertures to keep it dry inside.

Subframe to bolt to is easier, and probably more rigid, but I can see the argument for keeping weight down, we are limited to about 400kg on our mini's, but then that's quite a lot when you consider it, I'll be weighing my trailer when it's built to see exactly how much it does weight, but I've some ideas for lightening, such as removing all remnants of the brakes, and possibly finding other ways to lighten the subframe.

D

#14 Ethel

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 11:38 AM

Watch the weight or you'll not be able to put anything in it. Maybe junk the subframe and fit a trailer axle?

#15 brightpink

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 11:39 AM

we tried to just have a rubber seals on the lid and boot but water gets in every little hole it can.

as for weight i dont know what it weights but it takes 3 people camping gear for a weekend. my other half drives when the trailer is on and says it doesnt feel much different than without it. just a little slower :)




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