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Turn The Wheels When Brakes On


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#16 Ethel

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 07:15 PM

A smaller cylinder will create higher line pressure - pressure is pounds per sq inch so if you apply the same pounds (with the brake pedal) on to a piston with less sq inches it'll make more pressure to push the pads with. With a pad missing the pedal should go to the floor unless something is obstructing it.

#17 01smartc

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 07:32 PM

Ok.... but it wont push the pads as far for the same stroke?

I had them the other way to start with... but changed them becasue I thought it could be the probem not pushing the pistons far enough?

#18 Ethel

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 07:37 PM

It won't but the pads should be that close to the discs to make little difference. The bigger master won't need to travel as far to push the rear wheel cylinders though 'n you'll need to make less use of the balance bar.

#19 01smartc

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 07:49 PM

Ok, ive got rear disc's on the car and i'm just really worried that i might lock the rears way to easily!

#20 Ethel

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 08:07 PM

All the more reason to swap 'em round.

#21 01smartc

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 08:17 PM

ok... so swap them round will increase pressure to front and reduce to the rear?

YAY! my mini might stop now!

#22 Ethel

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 08:22 PM

I think there may be something else at play. Could the balance bar be running out of travel so only one cylinder is getting pushed properly?

#23 01smartc

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 08:39 PM

Ok running through it all in ma head.... the only other thing I can think of is that ive got brand new discs and pads?

This make a difference?

#24 Massey

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 09:12 AM

this might be some thing silly but have you closed off each line and pressed the brakes too check if there is no air in your system any where if there is just ree bleed them

#25 01smartc

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 09:29 AM

Yer checked each line.. bled loads through to make sure! I got a 5L tub from halfords for the job lol.

Im thinking the pads and discs just need bedding in?

Chris

#26 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 09:36 AM

lol id just let them bed in b4 you worry yourself to old age take at least a month to bed brakes in 100% or 10 laps of catle combe lol

id just let them bed 100% and then make sure everything hunky doory

the master cylinde shouldnt need to travel very far as when the pad wear down more fluid goes into the caliper chambers and thus the same pedal effort but again as the pads wear they will lock less easily as less frictional material

#27 01smartc

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 09:39 AM

Thats was i thought.... but I have no way of bedding them in!

The car is not road leagal... and it a hillclimb car, doing about 1 mile per run! I doubt a whole season would bed them in lol

How can I bed them in?

P.S First race on sunday ;D

#28 Ethel

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 10:10 AM

What pads are you using? Out 'n out race pads are likely to be pretty poo if they're not up to temperature. I'd think good quality road pads would be best for a hill climber since you have no time to get heat in to them. Did you clean the discs, it's not contamination?

#29 01smartc

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 10:13 AM

Erm ive got Mintex 1144's ... I think there road pads, thats why i got them because no time to heat.

Erm did clean discs when i put them on... but that was about 4 months ago?

Any ideas about bedding in when not on the road?

Chris

#30 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 10:19 AM

you should get some find a deserted private road and go for a blast with mintex (the best) you need to warm them up to bed them in you drive up to 15mp and apply the brakes gently, then 30 and bit firmer, then 75 and aplly hard pressure, then pull over to let them cool down and do 40 and 60 and good pedal a few times then go and stop for an hour let them cool and they should be alot better

to be honest you need to be able to drive the car to bed them in or get it up to speed




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