40 replies to this topic

[scrippo]

Thanks all,

Will give it a try and report back! Unfortunately I have to wait until Monday to get out there

[Asphalt]

The Metro's/Cooper RSP's manifold is shorter and a little 'higher' than most aftermarket manifolds, IMO!

CAM6613 (above stock manifold) fits just on a pre-90's car. But with enough clearance.
On pre '74 cars (pre Waxstat carbs, 'higher' bulkhead) it might be neccesary to bolt the carb in with screws instead of rods & nuts. ().

Have no better picture atm:

Edited by Asphalt, 03 April 2009 - 10:43 AM.

[Moke boy]

I had a similar problem when changing to an HIF 44 on my moke.
I had the insulation spacer reduced in thickness to 6-7mm, mini spares can supply a spacer but were
were out of stock at the time.

To overcome the studs ( shorted by approx 5mm ) from the mini spares inlet manifold, I substituted a stud for a bolt, which just
gave enough tolerance to swing the carb. in place. The bottom nearside nut is a little difficult to secure, but it is possible.

I think that in place, there is approx 10mm max. between the bottom edge of the float chamber and the bulk head.

When finished I realised that I could have released the top engine steady bars and pulled the engine forward briefly.

I hope this may help, but realise it is not a direct copy of your problem.

David

[Madmax]

totally agree with GW on this, never heard of a sub frame causing an HIF44 to foul the bulkhead...

[AlasdairM]

I’m having a nightmare trying to fit my maniflow inlet manifold with my HIF44 carb onto my 1990 cooper.

After reading this thread I’ve realised I’m not alone!

If I try and assemble the inlet and carb together first, how will I manage to access the 2 nuts underneath the carb to tighten the inlet manifold onto the engine block?

Or is the ‘tilting the engine forward’ method sufficient?

I also managed to snap a corner of the inlet manifold off, right across the threads where the carb bolts onto. Rather than buying a new one, I’m thinking just to add a nut behind it.

Any more tips?

[cal844]

Buy a new manifold, your current one will never seal right

[whistler]

My spacer is a centimetre thick. Just bought it from Minispares for a tenner

Minispares also do a spacer that's 6mm thick.

[AlasdairM]

Attached is a pic. I think a nut would go behind it and tighten up good enough?

Attached Files

•  B355F3A0-A89C-4793-AF22-8595B388DBE9.jpeg   56.59K   1 downloads

[Spider]

Attached is a pic. I think a nut would go behind it and tighten up good enough?

 

I can't see why not. After assembly and getting it running, check it for leaks.

[AlasdairM]

Thanks moke, I’ll give it a try as you say. Only £40 if it leaks.

Also, to update the thread, I removed the engine mount and it allows the engine to move quite a lot at the top, so hopefully that’ll give me enough room to get the carb on. I’ll update when the new studs arrive (they’re all worn)

[Shooter63]

If you need a thinner spacer triumph tr3 spacers were 1/4" ( 6mm) thick, you will need to shorten the studs a bit, my Mrs Mini has a Howley inlet on it and that's what I needed to do. As others have said bolt it all together and fit it as a unit, fit the outer nuts first to hold the manifold in place, then you can start the inner nuts with your fingers and finish off with the ring end of a combi spanner or 1/4" drive socket with a short extension and wobble joint at the socket end, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes all in

Shooter

[AlasdairM]

That’s interesting Shooter. I didn’t think you could access the two inner nuts since they are so close to the carb.

But if you say it’s possible, it’s worth a try!

[Ethel]

I'd be inclined to just use 2 studs on that. The one opposite the missing one will act  like a see saw.

 

Was the manifold new? That break looks pretty dull & grainy, faulty casting?  If you've got the missing bit you should be able to get it tigged back on.

 

You could try this stuff too, but it'd be hard to get the local heat in to a biggish casting without oxy.

 

It's got weird properties mind, so have a play with some scrap first. From experience you need the parts solidly clamped or pinned together as is it'll flow into all the metal that's hot enough. The melting point will be lower if you try to rework it and it's a lot tougher to file than plain aluminium.

[AlasdairM]

Hi Ethel 

 

I think when i use a nut behind the casting it should be fine. The nut should prevent the see-saw effect. 

 

Yes the manifold was brand new. I've tried to phone maniflow already today but there's no answer- hopefully they'll be able to help. 

[Ethel]

Bank Holiday.

 

At some point you'll almost certainly want to undo it (It's a Mini) so I'd sooner have a fix that offers the easiest & most varied options for when you're swearing in a lay-by on a soggy winter's night.