39 replies to this topic

[MRA]

Minidaves, you may like to check your next set of Timken bearings...... may say packaged in the EU (Germany) however they will be made in China of all places

[Rustic's missus]

Well we have taken the bearings out of the hub today. The rear bearing was clogged up with muck, which made it stiffen and the front one had a bow in the metal above the rollers so the bearing was no longer a full circle, but a circle that had a massive lump in the side, causing it not to seat nicely in the hub.
Now where do we go from here, i am going to purchase new bearings, but try the tightening with the flat washer approach, where can you get a flat washer for this from??

I have looked on mini spares and they don't do them. Also what torque setting do you suggest? we obviously followed the haynes manual and torqued it to 150 ft pounds / 207 Nm , but the haynes manual must be based on a 10 or 12 inch wheeled mini. will it be a very different setting for 13 inch wheels?


Also when you tighten/torque everything up, the two nuts that are supplied with the CV joint gold and silver seem to confuse me, we tighten with the silver but we put the gold one on to stay on the car and remove the silver one. Is this right??

Thanks

[GraemeC]

The heavy washer is available from MRA Minis - you may recoognise the name!!

The gold and silver hub nuts - I would assume the difference is that one is 34mm A/F (ie metric socket) and the other is 1"5/16ths A/F (ie Imperial socket).

(I'm impressed that the manufacturers are supplying both!!)

[Rustic's missus]

ok cool! Can you tell what the difference is between tightening with the flat washer as apposed to the tapered one? especially on a sportspack?


thanks

[Ethel]

There isn't any, wind it up to 150ft/lb remove the nut without disturbing the bearing, then fit the split washer and retighten. You should get as much wear out of bearings with any wheels: on one side of the bearing is a good proportion of a 650kg Mini on the other is a wheel that's around 2% of that. You'll only generate bigger forces if you're using your extra grip to torture the tarmac around bends.

[MRA]

The heavy washer is available from MRA Minis - you may recoognise the name!!

The gold and silver hub nuts - I would assume the difference is that one is 34mm A/F (ie metric socket) and the other is 1"5/16ths A/F (ie Imperial socket).

(I'm impressed that the manufacturers are supplying both!!)

Yes that is about right, there is another nut that is just plain which is apparently ex factory so when they are gone...... I'll start making them

Interesting fact or fiction.... Not all CV's have an imperial thread and some have been metric for more than 30 years still with imperial nuts. The metric nut is someones idea of a cost down... certain bar stock is cheaper when its bought in metric sizes.

[Hughes]

Can I ask how much play is too much?

Should there be any at all?

I fitted a new hub and new timken bearing (and new ball joints) a few months back. Tightened with flat washer (from MRA!) and it still has a little bit of movement. No matter how many times I slackened it and re-tightened I had the same issue? Strangely the passenger side is the same (never been changed and only done 16K miles).

Movement is detected when holding wheel at top and bottom.

Thanks!

[MRA]

Can I ask how much play is too much?

Should there be any at all?

I fitted a new hub and new timken bearing (and new ball joints) a few months back. Tightened with flat washer (from MRA!) and it still has a little bit of movement. No matter how many times I slackened it and re-tightened I had the same issue? Strangely the passenger side is the same (never been changed and only done 16K miles).

Movement is detected when holding wheel at top and bottom.

Thanks!

Then I suspect either worn CV joints (the section where the inner bearing race sits) or slack outside of this area, as in top and bottom ball joints or lower bush etc..

try to isolate the slack by getting someone to push the brake pedal, this will "lock" the wheel bearing and if you now have no movement "slack" then it does point towards wheel bearing, CV etc.

The bearing inner should be a sliding fit on the CV with no discerable slack.... run your nail along the parallel section of the CV joint where the bearing inner fits, you should NOT be able to feel any ridges or steps, and no amount of tightening will correct this issue.

How did you find the instructions that came with our CV Fitting Tool ? where they easily understood ? and did you make sure that no grease was left on the CV or under the bearings whilst fitting them ?

Just a thought here, where they tight when you did them 6 monthes ago ? and what are the splines on the CV and within the drive flange like.. ? they should be a nice sliding fit with no rotation !

[MRA]

Hi Chloe,

Have you fixed this issue ?

Regards Martin
MRA Minis

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 04 May 2009 - 04:07 PM.

[crazy skunk]

Can I ask how much play is too much?

Should there be any at all?

I fitted a new hub and new timken bearing (and new ball joints) a few months back. Tightened with flat washer (from MRA!) and it still has a little bit of movement. No matter how many times I slackened it and re-tightened I had the same issue? Strangely the passenger side is the same (never been changed and only done 16K miles).

Movement is detected when holding wheel at top and bottom.

Thanks!

i have the same problem, its like the new flange is slightly rocking on the new cv even when torqued up with the flat washer,
as if the flange has been machined out too much?