35 replies to this topic

[adam_93rio]

i didnt think about the diagram, i really didnt know there was as much as that to it tho. as ive never looked into it

im getting the haynes out now, (i say out, its always out) just for a goosey

[Hekmat]

Finally got around to doing the guide. It is the first draft, I need to add some more pics for the hazard and negative (ground) based switches and do a final "Spool Chick" , but it is complete as far as the standard switches are concerned. I am hoping to get some pics for the other buttons tomorrow and provide an updated version by Monday.

I have done the document in 2 formats:

Word 2003  Savage_Button_Wiring.doc   1.25MB   450 downloads
PDF  Savage_Button_Wiring.pdf   1MB   913 downloads

I will be installing my setup in the car over the next 2-3 days (subject to weather and other work on the mini) and will post new pictures on my project page.

PM me if you have any problems or questions.

[Darkscamp]

three cheers for that man for giving such a detailed guide, i'm actually looking forward to installing these switches now


cant wait for the next installment about the final stages

[Hekmat]

i'm interested in this one as i'm thinking about fitting them to the scamp and Minx to Vadar.

they all state they are latching switches on ebay, even the brake test switch. is this right or is 'latching switch' just a term used.

Sorry missed this question earlier. I got my switches from waxacar.co.uk and they stated "latching" for the break test and the rear screen heater. When I got the switched they were not latching. I spoke to them and they said it was a mistake on the site and I think alot of other people make the same mistake. To solve the problem for the rear heated screen, I bought a plain latching switch and swapped the heads around (abit expensive way of doing it, but hey minis are worth it). I left the break test switch as Momentary.

Edited by Hekmat, 07 November 2009 - 06:45 PM.

[$way]

i bought a rear heated screen switch that was described as latching but wasnt, sent them an email and they sent me a latching one. the seller i use on ebay will make any symbol on any switch latching or momentary.

i have just done my switches with these. for the hazard switch i used a different switch block, you can buy a 4 pole switch block that will fit the savage switch, then you dont need any complicated wiring you can plug it all into the switch block.

[Darkscamp]

any chance of a link to the 4 pole switch block that fits please matey, sounds like a much easier way than i thought of the other day.

[$way]

i got it from RS it is nearly £10 but makes the wiring much simpler and tidier than how others have described.

HERE

pictures shows 3 pole but it is for a 4 pole block.

Edited by $way, 17 November 2009 - 02:33 PM.

[$way]

if you want to know how i wired it let me know.

Edited by $way, 17 November 2009 - 02:35 PM.

[CobraV8]

I am interested in some switches like these - but damn they are expensive if you need a few of them. Is there nothing similar for less? I am in New Zealand - and our money is way 'cheaper' than yours, and postage costs, so it makes for an expensive set of switches.

[Rich.]

Does anyone know if you can swap the crappy blue LED's over to red ones on these or are they resin sealed or similar?
If you could get to the back of them to unsloder the blue and stick in a red id be very interested in a set. I just think blue looks abit boy racer for a classic mini!

Rich

[evansisgreat]

Does anyone know if you can swap the crappy blue LED's over to red ones on these or are they resin sealed or similar?
If you could get to the back of them to unsloder the blue and stick in a red id be very interested in a set. I just think blue looks abit boy racer for a classic mini!

Rich

Yeah, it's possible. But you can buy red ones off ebay now, also in green and amber.
But if you got bored of those after you bought, all you have to do is take all the mounting bits off so it's just the switch (as in picture 1) and then pull the bit of the switch that actually lights up off to reveal the bulb (as in picture 2).
No idea what kind of bulb it takes though, anyone know?


 P220410_15.03.JPG   49.72K   44 downloads
 P220410_15.03_01_.JPG   52.61K   41 downloads

Edited by evansisgreat, 22 April 2010 - 02:10 PM.

[Rich.]

Yer, i just went ahead and got some blue ones.They just look like modified bayonet bulbs with an LED soldered in. Should be pretty easy to change to Red. However, i also got some Rockford speakers with blue LED illumination, so im thinking of going with a blue led colour scheme instead of a red one now.

Rich

[pax140m]

when you guys did these switches, due to the fact the the orignal headlight swtich switches both sidelights and dipped beam did you put 2 separate switches or get them to work off one switch

[somecrapname]

Finally got around to doing the guide. It is the first draft, I need to add some more pics for the hazard and negative (ground) based switches and do a final "Spool Chick" , but it is complete as far as the standard switches are concerned. I am hoping to get some pics for the other buttons tomorrow and provide an updated version by Monday.

I have done the document in 2 formats:

Word 2003  Savage_Button_Wiring.doc   1.25MB   450 downloads
PDF  Savage_Button_Wiring.pdf   1MB   913 downloads

I will be installing my setup in the car over the next 2-3 days (subject to weather and other work on the mini) and will post new pictures on my project page.

PM me if you have any problems or questions.

Thanks for that guide, using that I have wired up all but my hazard light switch which I can't seem to get to work properly. Is there any chance you could give a brief description/photo of the wiring for the hazards, please?

[Woody2332]

Yeah I think a picture of the back of the hazzard switch would be nice, i,ve gone and bought a 4 pole switch Block for A01 operator for the hazzard and not made much different, then again I've been quite lazy and just thrown them on in any old place so, I'm guessing it's just a matter of finding out which are live when you switch it on, and which are live when you switch it off, so where it's live when it's switch off that's where the green and with brown trace go, and when's it's off there should be three wires that I believe are green white trace, light green pink trace and green and red, or something like that that.should be on when the switch is on, and then obviously the green with light green trace wire to the positive side of the actual switch for the light to come on and the the negitive side with a earth wire on, then which I might look into is the resisters ect ect?