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Front Bottom Ball Joint Just Snapped On Full Look.


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#16 dipstick

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:30 PM

on a side note, whats the best way to check if the b/j need to be replaced...just check for play???

#17 Jordie

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:31 PM

A new balljoint kit is supplied with shims.

When fitting the balljoint, you shim it and grease it so that the balljoint pin isnt too loose or too tight.

As the balljoint pin wears againist the inner cup, the play in the joint increases. To reduce this play (ie. at service or mot) it is simply a case of removing a shim. Remove 1 shim, rebuild the balljoint, check play. Replace and remove shims as required to get the correct feel.

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#18 booton

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:33 PM

the mini only passed the mot 2 months ago with no play. still can't believe this has happened.

will change all four i think tomz. just in case.

#19 booton

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:37 PM

just to clarify when i fit the new joints i need to fit all the simms supplied yes,

thanks for all the help steve

#20 Jordie

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:40 PM

You need to check the fit and adjust the shims you use as required. Shims will be different sizes.

Also good practice to lap in the balljoint.

An haynes manual would be handy for you me thinks, as pictures speak 1000 words.

Jordie

#21 danie garry

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:45 PM

and a 34mm (i think) for the driveshaft/hubnut,

you're lucky u didnt get a rollockin for using mm on this site samsernie!!! (1 5/16th)

booton-u should get a few extre shims just in case, impossible to do properly without the right amount of shims, might be posted already but a good help anyway.......
balljoint replacement video

Edited by danie garry, 12 November 2009 - 09:53 PM.


#22 booton

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:59 PM

seems like then its not just a case of out with the old and in with the new.

#23 danie garry

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:16 PM

It aint to hard really, just follow haynes and the video(but if anything have the balljoints a bit tighter than the video)
if u need the 1.5" spanner send out a request for it, theres bound to be some1 on here near u that would be willing to lend u 1

#24 Dan

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 11:46 PM

you're lucky u didnt get a rollockin for using mm on this site samsernie!!! (1 5/16th)


He might be right for his particular car though. That nut is available in both 34mm and 1 & 5/16" sizes, each with the same thread so they both fit all large CV joints. Any Mini with large CV joints could have either size.

#25 Ethel

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:00 AM

The broken pin should press out just the same with a scissor style joint splitter. Also, get yourself some proper grease for the CV joint, Molybdenum based.

It would be interesting to see the broken pin if you can take a piccy, it seems to be becoming more common. don't suppose you could find out where it came from?

I'm wondering if one of the big suppliers would be interested in getting it analysed.

#26 Sherlock

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:30 AM

The bottom ball joint has a spring loaded inner cup, you need to set it up with the correct number of shims without the spring, when it's at the correct setting, dismantle, fit the spring & then re-assemble. If you're a member of a club, it might pay to ask one of the guys there to help, if you're new to classic cars. It's a job which is easy when you've done loads of them.
I'd be interested to know why it broke, the ball joints on my Mini have done over 100,000 miles! Still got plenty of shims left in them.

#27 icklemini

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:38 AM

and reshim when required.


Really - *dont* reshim the bottom ball joint....

Unlike the top ball joint: the bottom joint contains a strong spring that takes up the slop as it wears.. when it gets to the stage of showing play in it: it is worn out and needs replacing and not just a reshim...

#28 daemonchild

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 06:36 AM

Given the minimal cost of a new set, I don't think I'd go through the hassle of getting the joint out only to not replace it in case of, as has been mentioned, spring wear etc. Jusp my 2p.

#29 dipstick

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 06:49 AM

Given the minimal cost of a new set, I don't think I'd go through the hassle of getting the joint out only to not replace it in case of, as has been mentioned, spring wear etc. Jusp my 2p.



how often should u grease them???

#30 jonb_5

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 07:15 AM

Hi

I did my first one about a week ago.

Took about 30 minutes and was a lot easier than I had thought it would be.

I watched the video on youtube first which was really helpful.

I did it on the car also and found no problems at all.

I would buy the socket, got mine from halfords for £9 so really the are not that expensive, (you can bet your life you will need it again)

Just shim until the feel is right as the video says and you cant go far wrong.

Cheers

Jon




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