
Rear Suspension And Fuel Tank
#16
Posted 17 January 2010 - 02:10 PM
#17
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:01 PM
Thanks. I'll do that either today or tomorrow
OK...it took a lot longer than i expected
so..apologies..
but here are a couple of pictures of the situation if there's anyone out there who stil care to hear about my problem.
the only thing i could notice was the shocker looking slightly bent. but i'm not sure if it is bent even. would some one be able to tell me if it is ok from the picture?
(N.B. the general wetness of things in the picture is due to WD40 prayed on..it was actually dry as a bone)



apologies for the limited info i could provide with these blurry photos but i'm sure there's some mini genius out there who can solve the mystery!
Edited by p.park, 25 January 2010 - 11:08 PM.
#18
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:12 PM
#19
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:13 PM
at least not for 12 months
how would i do that?
Edited by p.park, 25 January 2010 - 11:14 PM.
#20
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:17 PM
#21
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:22 PM
You need a grease gun. It should be done every 3 months. I suspect the arm is sticking and when you hit the pot hole it moved to a different position than where it usually sits and got stuck there instead. It might be that the mounting holes for the arm are worn, it might just be that the grease has dried.
so, do i need to grease the joints where the radius arm rotates?
by the way, i should also have mentioned.. i said before, that the N/S rear would stay if i pulled it up...
it turns out ....it only stays for like a few hours or it seems to 'settle' if i drive around for a bit
Edited by p.park, 25 January 2010 - 11:23 PM.
#22
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:45 PM
Yes the grease is pumped into the nipple on the end of the radius arm pin using a grease gun.
#23
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:49 PM
Do you mean the car slowly sinks?
Yes the grease is pumped into the nipple on the end of the radius arm pin using a grease gun.
sink? yeah, i guess you could say that...
but even so, there's still about an inch's gap between the tyre and the arch...which means it's drivable but not recommended i guess..
is this significant?
Edited by p.park, 25 January 2010 - 11:49 PM.
#24
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:49 PM
#25
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:53 PM
#26
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:54 PM
cones to take a few mins to settle but not usually that long i wld have though... maybe radius arm seized like dad said or maybe that shocker is bent not letting the ram move correctly?
hmmm...
ok..i'll definitely put some grease on the radius arm joints
another question is...
would it help to change the cones and shockers?
if so, how far can i safely pull the fuel tank from its original position without disconnecting and messing up the fuel and breather pipes?
#27
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:56 PM
#28
Posted 25 January 2010 - 11:59 PM
The fuel tank can usually be moved into the middle of the boot without a problem. It's connected by flexible hoses but previous owners might have left you with too little hose to move it far if you're unlucky.
i see...
should I be changing like bushes for the shockers and trumpet ends?
if so, what do I need to get?
Thanks for all the answers by the way...
#29
Posted 26 January 2010 - 12:02 AM
#30
Posted 26 January 2010 - 12:05 AM
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