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Galvanising A Whole Mini?


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#1 modified90

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:19 PM

just wondering is it possible to galvanise an entire stripped shell?( after all new panels and welding done)

i know some people do the subframes and often land rover chassis but not seen or heard of a whole car being done?

i have heard that paint has trouble sticking?

opionions and views on this would be great

cheers

#2 shorty

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:25 PM

wouldn't it cost like alot of money
as i always thought getting stuff galvanised was quite expensive

#3 modified90

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:27 PM

to get a landrover chassis done its £650 but that included sand blasting beforehand i think ( seen it on "a 4x4 is born")

#4 Pauly

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:27 PM

Would be too expensive and the heat would distort the shell.

#5 modified90

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:30 PM

brace it somehow? surely if its between £1000-£1500 it would be worthwhile as galv items 20 years old still dont have a spot of rust ( again the chassis) after all how many minis do you see are entirely galvanised?

#6 Nick04

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:35 PM

Have a look at these guys!!!

http://www.surfacepr...CFVmX2AoddBmI0A

:(

#7 olds_kool_lews

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:37 PM

ive seen galvanised rear subframes, but its something like 80% success rate, the other 20% twisted due to the heat used thus making them scrap...i wouldnt want to get my shell dipped at the cost of undreds of pounds to find it twisted and buckled out of shape!

#8 Komenda

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:53 PM

Why not strip back to bare metal kill the rust, then use a zinc primer and paint = no more rust.

#9 pepper20

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:54 PM

also, mite be worth considering the people who you are trusting to galvanise it for you. working wi my pa (westmoreland forge fabricators) we carefully carried it to the trailer, and carefully strapped it down then deliverd a very expensive balcony to the galvanisers. at their yard, they got 2 forklift trucks n just rammed them into the trailer to get underneath it n carried it between the 2 forklifts. when we went back to collect it, they had buckled 10-15 spindles and twisted the whole staircase. we managed to fit it alright but my pa had to nock some money off because of how the workers treated it. personally, i wouldnt bother galvanising a shell because if the heat doesnt warp the panels then the guys who move it round may do.

#10 modified90

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:55 PM

galvanising does not seem to be an option then :(

stripping back to bare metal and zinc priming it wont really get the results that galvanising will would it? i dont know much about zinc primer ....?

#11 Pauly

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:58 PM

Surface processing is the place to go, they acid dip the shell then e-coat it (technolegy used on modern cars) which gives you a rust free shell for years to come.

#12 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:58 PM

Didn't they have loads of trouble when galvanising the moke ?

#13 modified90

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:59 PM

also, mite be worth considering the people who you are trusting to galvanise it for you. working wi my pa (westmoreland forge fabricators) we carefully carried it to the trailer, and carefully strapped it down then deliverd a very expensive balcony to the galvanisers. at their yard, they got 2 forklift trucks n just rammed them into the trailer to get underneath it n carried it between the 2 forklifts. when we went back to collect it, they had buckled 10-15 spindles and twisted the whole staircase. we managed to fit it alright but my pa had to nock some money off because of how the workers treated it. personally, i wouldnt bother galvanising a shell because if the heat doesnt warp the panels then the guys who move it round may do.


this happens all too often you take your items to a buisness and they screw or wreck it :/

it happens when people take thier cars to garages out on test they rag them like hell :(

#14 johnK

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 09:04 PM

galvanising is a cheap and dirty way of offering pretty good corrosion protection, the downsides are its thick, you have to drain it very carefully, all holes need to be re-drilled/tapped afterwards, its not a "smooth" surface, for sure it'll warp a mini like a twig and worst of all it would probably double the weight of the shell! If you are serious about the best protection possible you need to look for an autophertic (may be wrong spelling) process where the shell is "charged" and the coating penetrates every single nook and cranny on the shell when it gets dipped- not cheap but not that different from galvanising and definetely a better product.

JK

#15 gregh55

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 09:05 PM

it would look pretty cool/different if it was galvernised tho :(




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