32 replies to this topic

[modified90]

i was hoping galv would work as compared to moest other protection it is quite cheap even tho holes have to be re-drilled/tapped but theres no way its worth it if the heat is that bad

tho it would cool on an MOT ramp lol

[Pauly]

I would be like dipping the shell into larva. Think its 1000 degrees c or something like that in the pots.

[secondopsman]

Have a look here http://www.josephash...hnical_info.php according to there tech spec its 450 deg c.We use them at work and they charge by the ton £225.00 .However i dont know what affect it would have on a mini shell,But there tech dept are very helpful and have even done site visits for us before we fabricate.HTH.
Pete

[floydrob]

chemically it would also be flawed. the problem with galvanizing, unlice other metal protections that actually chemically sacraficially protect the iron, galvanising is just a coating like dip coating. it's great unbtil you get the slightest flaw or dent. as soon as the galvanised coating perishes, the metal underneath will rot like milk. because of the position in the reactivity series of zinc, the iron sacraficially protects it and oxidised very quickly. this is why galvanised bins are always rusty where holes have been drilled/dents have been made etc etc it's deffo not worth it.

[modified90]

i was thinking of paint on top of the galv coating? i was thinking of galv mainly because places like the inner sills,rear pockets,inner parts of the roof ect... also with paint on top of the galv i cant see the car rusting in a million years .....

pete:

do you have any more info ? thanks

[PhilipGCaldwell]

a couple of issues back in mini world, a chap had galvanised his subframes to good effect, the miniworld writers were pretty surprised that it didnt distort it out of recognition

[mdickson]

Have a look at these guys!!!

http://www.surfacepr...CFVmX2AoddBmI0A

I would go with these guys. It is the same process we use in Swindon at the Honda factory on all cars before spraying. I would be very tempted to get mine up there and done once all the body work is finished before the final paint job. We don't have any problems from the chemical process warping or deforming the body.

[Mattl]

The last mpis had ecoat and they still rot! The main problem is the mini shell is not designed for e-coat, in terms of drainage as its going through the tanks. This means it still leaves areas unprotected inside box sections etc. Then theirs the dirt traps on the mini that are unprotected by wheel arch liners etc.

[taffy1967]

Yes so just get busy with the Waxoyl or Dinitrol and your Mini should have a long and happy life then.

[modified90]

ill try the waxoyl and stuff it dosent seem worth galv lol

iv seen on "how its made" them dipping cars in galv in america thats why i thaught....mini ! lol

[Dan]

The main problem is the mini shell is not designed for e-coat, in terms of drainage as its going through the tanks.

Mini shells were designed to be dipped right from the start of production. BMC (or rather Austin) were one of the first manufacturers to dip cars using their unique 'Rotodip' process which the Mini shell is designed for. That's what the large apertures in the bulkheads are meant for.

Heritage shells and panels are made from galvanically coated steel, just like modern cars. The complete shells are then also given an all over coating with a poly primer. They still rust. Anything will rust if the protection is compromised and as said above, galv is very easy to scratch off in the wrong conditions.

[mintom]

It's funny the dipping's been mentioned..

saw this earlier today..
CkTDCOQB-rg

dipping section starts from 4m00s

[Timtom]

copper electro plating would be a better win though

You could just leave it.. for 50 years.! and it'd go all greeeeen

(alas the waiting 50 years would be needed)..

[Sprocket]

Galvanising the shell via hot dip, will distort every panel.

The only real way to galvanise a shell id build it from the very start with galv steel.

One other option which is doable, but perhaps time consuming is to tin the whole shell using tinning paste and a blow lamp. you then have the added problem of removing al the flux afterwards. in reality though, you only really need to tin all the areas where panels are joined. The Wax does the closed sextions and does a very good job

[modified90]

would look very interesting at a show being completely coverd in copper lol !