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Electronic Ignition


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#31 Aria Aradhea

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 08:55 AM

Irostoke, what happen if I fit a late 65D electronic distributor to a ballasted Mini? Should I make a new 12v connection to the ignition module too?


Sorry somebody else will have to answer that, like the pink writing at the top says only answer what you know or have experience of :cry: Never touched the 65D dizzy :teehee:


;) Okay... thanks for the answer, though....

Oh, and I'm sorry I misspelled your nick, Lrostoke... :thumbsup: ;)

#32 Foxy10

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 08:33 PM

to adjust the timing will i need 1 of those strobe light things aswell as turning the dizzy? can anyone point me in the direction of a thread that says more about it? iv had a quick search but couldnt find anythin an mr haynes says that cars after '76 wil need the stroby thing, mines a 1980 by the way.

cheers :thumbsup:

#33 The-Womble

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 10:04 PM

I've only ever used one once at work, so don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure you disconnect the vacuum advance pipe from the dizzy, get the strobe light, start the car and then shine the strobe onto the bottom cog that the fanbelt runs on where you should see a set of jagged pointers. The largest pointer (furthest the top) is TDC, and each pointer below represents 4 degrees. Wherever the notch in the wheel appears every flash of the strobe shows you your timing and you can turn the dizzy accordingly.

Apologies if that's really confusing/untechnical/slightly incorrect. As I said, I've only had to use one once, quite a few months back.

#34 lrostoke

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:33 AM

the timing really depends on the spec of the engine..

standard 998 for most models seems to be 8 degrees BTDC @ 1500 rpm

for stage 1 the instructions state 5 degrees BTDC @ 1000 rpm


most modern strobe you have a clamp which clips over the HT lead for No 1 cylinder (near the rad) , plus 2 power leads positive and negative.

disconnect vac pipe off the dizzy, start the car and set the revs to which ever setting.

point the gun at the bottom pulley wheel and note the reading.

turn the dizzy till you get the required reading

#35 Foxy10

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 05:11 PM

got my kit 2day :) dont surpose i cud b reli cheeky an ask if anyone has a picture of the kit fitted because i havent got a clue what im doin :)

cheers in advance

#36 lrostoke

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 06:24 PM

Posted Image

Standard dizzy the screws blue are what is used to mount the electronic ignition, the pin red if present needs removing


Posted Image

don't forget to fit the little earthing lead in the dizzy

Edited by lrostoke, 12 February 2010 - 06:26 PM.


#37 Foxy10

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 02:20 PM

thanks for that its rely helpful =]

althou im a bit confused as ther is only 1 wire comin out of my dizzy (black) that goes to the coil and the wire that comes out of the other side of the coil (white) goes up with the rest of the wires along the inner wing. the instructions say both the new red and black wires go to the coil so what am i supost to do with the white wire?
pictures

black wire coming out
Posted Image
white wire goin up to the inner wing
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Posted Image

cheers 4 ur help :)

Edited by Foxy10, 13 February 2010 - 02:21 PM.


#38 Ethel

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 03:21 PM

Aria,

The 65 uses a different (0.82ohm) coil that should be fed a full 12 volts so you can jockey the dizzy off the coil's +ve terminal.

A ballasted contact breaker system has about the same total resistance as an unballasted 12v coil, which is why the Britpart kit would work with either, as long as you don't short circuit the ballast wire.


Foxy,

You have unballasted ignition. The white wire supplies 12v to the coil, the black wire is switched to earth by the points. Every time the points open the coil creates a spark at the plugs. The electronic unit replaces the points but it also needs a 12v supply to work, so you connect the -ve to the -ve side of the coil (to be switched) and the +ve to the positive side of the coil so it gets 12v as long as the coil does too.

#39 Foxy10

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 03:54 PM

so both the white wire and the new red wire should be attacthed to the positive side of the coil? sorry if im being an idiot and thats not right =]

cheers 4 ur help

#40 Ethel

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 04:23 PM

Yes,

White from the loom 'n red from the iggy module on the +ve, black from the module on the -ve.

#41 Foxy10

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 04:27 PM

kk i wil go an try now thanks 4 ur help =]

#42 Foxy10

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 04:43 PM

last 3 questions hopefully (probebly not lol) how do you get the pin thing out? (red dot on lrostokes diagram) iv tried pliers but it dosent want 2 budge an also where does that little piece of metal with the whole in it go? where is the grese supost 2 go?

cheers

Edited by Foxy10, 13 February 2010 - 04:47 PM.


#43 lrostoke

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 04:58 PM

The post I used some pincers on

I think the grease you mention is a heat paste to go between the module and the backplate.

Not sure what bit you mean with the hole.

#44 Foxy10

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 05:07 PM

the mean the small thin piece of metal that came in the pack about 1.5cm by 0.5cm in size that has a whole in 1 end and two little dents in the middle
cheers 4 the other answers

#45 lrostoke

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 05:10 PM

No idea what that is ??

This is what came in my kit, yours is slightly different in that the updated version as a seperate round ring , rather than it being built onto the rotor arm

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