Engine Swap Ideas
#16
Posted 11 March 2010 - 05:59 PM
Maybe others with more experience can correct me on this, but if I was going for a bigger transplant than a 1275, I would upgrade from standard 8.4" discs to 4 pots or the like. Maybe it's not necessary, I don't know. But it's never bad idea to have more braking power than you need. Maybe superfin drums on the back but I don't know how much of a difference they make exactly.
#17
Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:03 PM
That blue is gorgeous!
Maybe others with more experience can correct me on this, but if I was going for a bigger transplant than a 1275, I would upgrade from standard 8.4" discs to 4 pots or the like. Maybe it's not necessary, I don't know. But it's never bad idea to have more braking power than you need. Maybe superfin drums on the back but I don't know how much of a difference they make exactly.
thanks its a MG ignition Blue cost £45 a litre but we gave the guy doing it a £1000 limit so its not all that great a finish on the door window surround or iterior but those images do the metal flake no justice at all
i'm likely to get a 1275 a late one though, iv bought a stage one kit to see if it makes any difference because my exhaust is the original 1984 exhaust and has a blow out.
i am heavly considering new brakes discs and 4pots as well as the superfin drums but this is alot of money although with my brakes not being servo assisted i have had a couple of close incounters in the wet as well as one bump at christmas was able to beat most of it out with a rubber mallet but the grilles now a little bent
Edited by big tobby 7592, 12 March 2010 - 06:33 PM.
#18
Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:49 PM
#19
Posted 12 March 2010 - 04:04 PM
The Blue Mini is tops. Superfins on the back keep the drums cool and you can fit upgaded shoes. Discs on the front are a must.Also by Law.The Electronic Ignition mod. can be bought as a kit.A Box with a couple of lights on it.Needed on mod. Minis.Top race plugs help loads but cost loads.A kenlow extra electric fan is always a good idea or oil cooler.Light fly wheel and EN 40B back plate helps.Night Ride Crank they cost a bit much.Also how about Harvey drive shaft mods,stops them snapping off on the joints.You really can get a classic engine fast.Straight cut box and prim.plus sec.Nice about 60 in first.Used to be a sport eating Jags.
i am not im all that confident about adding that many modifcations just yet but i need new rockers so i will be upgrading them when the time comes and basicly just modernize the engine as its just a standard we 998 engine from 1984 so it doesn't have electric fans or pre engaged starters. if i start to see improvements over time i will keep the wee engine im expecting this new exhaust to make a big boost to my performance all round.
i already have front break discs its just they are one and new discs and calibers would just make it a little bit safer although the back drums are a real priority as you can really feel the lack of braking power from the drums
Edited by big tobby 7592, 12 March 2010 - 06:35 PM.
#20
Posted 12 March 2010 - 04:48 PM
Minifins on the rear will do B***er all. 80% of your braking at least is done at the front, the rears will barely get warm unless on a track.
Make sure your brakes are in good order and regularly adjust the rears and you'll be fine. I.e don't drive like a pillock.
Your current engine sounds to be way off tune. Get it fixed up and you'll get an instant increase in power and mpg.
Britpart do electronic ign for pennies.
A big exhaust will do something between nowt and hurting performance without changing other stuff.
Your rockers will either work, or they won't. You don't need new ones unless they snap. Uprated rockers are pointless without a big cam to go with them.
By all means get a (late, so you get unleaded head) 1275 A+. In mild tune, all the kit you already have will be fine if properly maintained.
#21
Posted 12 March 2010 - 05:36 PM
Good basic mod. is a K&N and LSB Manifold.
#22
Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:25 PM
Time for a reality check.
Minifins on the rear will do B***er all. 80% of your braking at least is done at the front, the rears will barely get warm unless on a track.
Make sure your brakes are in good order and regularly adjust the rears and you'll be fine. I.e don't drive like a pillock.
Your current engine sounds to be way off tune. Get it fixed up and you'll get an instant increase in power and mpg.
Britpart do electronic ign for pennies.
A big exhaust will do something between nowt and hurting performance without changing other stuff.
Your rockers will either work, or they won't. You don't need new ones unless they snap. Uprated rockers are pointless without a big cam to go with them.
By all means get a (late, so you get unleaded head) 1275 A+. In mild tune, all the kit you already have will be fine if properly maintained.
ok what the hell a bit mean there
one ,its the only mini iv ever driven so to me a car should brake evenly, my mini doesn't
two , my rockers are apparently worn
three , i dont drive like a "pillock" a light car, wet road, old rustly brakes and the only accident that i did have was because a car pulled out infront of me
i am having it re-tuned this saturday and the exhaust is just a plain jane new exhaust with a LCB old exhaust is mainly patches and the manifold and exhaust don't meet up correctly, the exhaust is just an attempt to increase the mpg speed isn't important at moment still on r plates after all
Edited by big tobby 7592, 12 March 2010 - 06:28 PM.
#23
Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:27 PM
A good set of Rockers of a 1275 or MG1300 fit easy and always go for Double valve Springs.
Good basic mod. is a K&N and LSB Manifold.
theres one my original head had double springs but my new unleaded one i got for £50 ( cheap i think) didn't is there a big difference with out them
#24
Posted 12 March 2010 - 07:43 PM
When i said about 4 pots I was talking about having a transplanted engine in there with a lot more power. any standard A-series with standard discs will be fine.
if they are not performing properly or pulling, the you will need to service them. i.e. check if the pads and discs are worn and replace accordingly, change the brake fluid and pressurise the system, clean out the drums with new shoes on and tighten them up. The standard setup will be more than enough to stop a standardish mini.
I have no personal experience of minifins so cannot say, but some people seem to think they make a difference and some people dont. ill eventually be getting some thouugh. but as pantera said, the huge majority of braking force is up front
As people said before in this thread, if your 998 is giving you poor mpg figures and is feeling sluggish, then it sounds out of tune. thats not normal. if the engines been kept and serviced well, it should be a sweet runner no matter how old it is. Give it a full service, with new oil, plugs, leads, filters, set points and electrode gaps, set valve clearances etc and get it to a mini specialist for a tune. it will work wonders even on a standard engine. if you still want a bit more go, get a stage one kit. you wont need new rockers etc.
i dont like to say this because if people want to modify their car then they can, and i have no say in this, so dont take this the wrong way. but a stage 1 998 is a perfectly adequate engine, and especially for younger drivers. not meaning any disrespect, everyone's been there, I have and i learned my lesson....and that was in a stage 1 998
so all in all id try getting it all running sweet before you upgrade to a bigger engine, i dont think you'll be disappointed. and spend what you save on getting the dent properly sorted and any niggles with the shell done, so you have a rust free shell for as long as possible.
just my 2 pence.
Edit: As David reminded me, add to the list a quick overhaul of the carb, check everythings clean and not sticking. Also, its surprising how many people fail to remember to fill the dashpot oil up!
Edited by oli8925, 12 March 2010 - 08:01 PM.
#25
Posted 12 March 2010 - 07:50 PM
#26
Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:41 PM
What I was trying to say, is that throwing a load of mismatched parts at it will cost loads and achieve very little, especially if it's already running like a bag of spanners.
A decently sealed small-mid bore exhaust is a must on a 998. A blowing exhaust or a big bore will hurt bhp and mpg.
If your rockers are worn, you can adjust them via the tappets. If someone has wiggled them, found them to move side/side then pronounced they are worn, they are talking out of their, erm, hat. They're supposed to do that.
If your brakes are pulling to the side THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG and should be fixed ASAP.
If you can't feel your rear brakes working that is normal. There is a limiting valve in the rear brake circuit that makes this happen, otherwise, if you hit the brakes in the middle of a fast wet corner, the back wheels lock, and you disappear into the scenery - backwards.
So, the only time you might need minifins on the rear is IF YOU PLAN to drive like a pillock.
#27
Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:03 PM
i don't have alot of money to be throwing around
the stage one kit that i have bought will also work on a 1275 if and when i move to it i would also understand the claims that these are just maintance issues but i treat the car like a child, i am constantly checking everything is right every sunday because of the trouble i had when i first had it on the road back in october but then again iam not mechanic.
i believe that this exhaust and re tune will fix alot of the issues that i have and the carb portion of the kit will most likly be kept to may/june as the air filters have a habit of freezing up(iv been told) and at the moment its hitting negative 7-10 degrees at night and i leave the house at 6.30
alot of the parts where a make do job to pass MOT(how it passed with the CO2 rating and off wheel alignment il never know) and the rear drums was one of these jobs the morning before the test the rear drivers side drum decided to flood with brake fluid. its the case of if something needs replacing and its only a couple of extra pound to upgrade then why not.
its not that the car pulls to one side under braking but the tall feels as though it wants to spin round on occasions. the height of any brake modifcations coming anytime in the near future would maybe be new discs and painted calibers but there are various other little things that need fixed such as the seat belts un pluging themselves
i agree that a small or mid sized exhaust is all u need on a 998 as it produces quite a nice note this is what iv bought and id like to think it won't be that much bigger than the original

as for making sure that this engine is running right before i make up my mind, i said something along those lines in a early post. to be honest am not really one of these people that will waste thousands of pounds on a car when i could maybe buy a car that has all that. i know a guy that was given a jorden civic and to be fair too him its fast and handles well but hes *illegitimate person*ized it, striped the car down stuck in bucket sits and lowed it to the point where a speed bump turns into a nightmare not to mention various engine upgrades. honda engines aren't really for me and these big power transplants aren't ether although i did draw up plans for a 3 cylinder 1 litre toyota engine. this was simply a topic where i could throw up all my ideas and problems up there for more expensed mini drivers to comment on
Edited by big tobby 7592, 13 March 2010 - 10:31 AM.
#28
Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:04 PM
The Doubles take the Revs. Speedwell used or may still do top springs Blue outside cream inners.they sorted out my bounce.Please try just a new carb first.
by bounce do you mean heavy vibrations ???
#29
Posted 12 March 2010 - 11:16 PM
Still think are mate needs a new carb 1x1quarter SU.The small one.Also some new oil in the dash pot.
#30
Posted 13 March 2010 - 10:14 AM
On the head springs i ment revs.With a MK1 Cooper S any bounce blows the big valves in the head MK2 have smaller valves and just have them Rim flowed and skimmed.
Still think are mate needs a new carb 1x1quarter SU.The small one.Also some new oil in the dash pot.
carb has been refurbished and i have replaced the oil in the carb to a correct level
would replacing a carb not be big money unless i bought a second hand one which would mostly likly need refurbished
my carb is a HS4 what carb are you on about replacing it with ?
Edited by big tobby 7592, 13 March 2010 - 10:15 AM.
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