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How to fix your lights.


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#1 AlexM

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Posted 12 November 2005 - 11:08 PM

It seems that electrical issues are the bane of many Mini owners.

Particuarly the lights.

So. This post is designed to explain how to fix the lights when they go wrong, and at the same time maybe a few other electrical gremlins (if purely by accident).

The first thing that will occur to you, when they lights don't work as they should is that you have blown a bulb, on many a modern car this would probably be the case but the mini is different.....

The main fuses are located behind a plastic cover at the back of the engine bay, they should be pulled out and checked that they are the correct rating (as shown in your haynes manual).
Next it would be a good idea to clean the connections of grime and coat them with a light layer of petroleum jelly (i hope im right on that one) An expired tub of vasceline might suddenly find a use.

The bullet connectors are located behind the grille at the front of the engine bay, this makes them very succeptable to moisture and road dirt and if your lights were working normally then taking one or two of these connectors apart might cause they lights to dim or even go out completely.
So you can see from this how they affect the performance of the electrics. Check that they are secured to wire correctly and that they have a good clean connection, sometimes waggling them when they lights are on may fix yor probalem momentarily. But of course you want a more permenant solution!

As with the fuses the bullet connectors should be cleaned in the same way and any bent connectors replaced if possible.

The in line fuses on the back right of the engine bay should be treated in the same way as the other fuses making sure all are clean, of the correct rating and that they are seating properly in their casings. Together with checking the wire for loose connections or insulation.

Earth connections are very important for electrical equipment and a loose connection can cause sudden and unexpected failure. About halfway down on the left side of the engine bay next to the ECU (on injection cars) there is a screw with wires attached, earthing them to the vehicle body, unscrew this (a stubby phillips screwdriver simplifies things) wire brush the metal until the paints wears away and you have a clean connection and then replace ring terminals and wires if necessary to ensure a good connection.

Another earth for the rear lights is nect to the fuel tank on the left light cluster, a similar treatment should be used here.

The headlamp bowls should be checked for a good connection and you can usually test the bulbs by swapping them over.

With a bit of luck this should fix the problem, unless its an internal wiring fault in which case its a case of fine tooth combing the wiring with a multimeter, unless something hot has burnt through the wires (which will be quite obvious) or you have overloaded it with many many extra spotlights then this is unlikely since most electrical issues stem from loose connections neway.

I hope this has been usuaeful and that it will be posted into the FAQ section for future reference. If anyone else wants to contribute then go ahead, it should be complete after all. :w00t:

#2 Bungle

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:04 AM

you forgot to say this will happen at night in the middle of no where and you wont have any tool with you :w00t:

#3 nagrub

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 12:52 PM

The problem with my lights was the switch, i know this because i took it apart and all the contatcs were filthy. I cleaned them up and it worked as it should. Then there was a spark from the back of the switch onto the metal switch pannel surround. they dont work at all now, and I hav'nt blown a fuse. Its strange, when i pull the stalk towards me (like for flashing) I get both headlights working and both of my spots aswell. So i know they all work etc... Then when i push it away i get nothing. Also, might be worth a mention that when i pull the stalk towards for the flash i get a bit of a spark on the contacts there. Should I be concerned about this, does it mean i've got a short somewhere. How do I go about fixing this?
[edit] Yes, they did cut out in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night on a winding country road, natch.

#4 AlexM

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 01:04 PM

The stalk was one of the things that occurred to me when my lights went the first time and i was looking to replace the stalk as it was very loose, i took it appart and gapped the contacts for the flasher and this meant that the light no longer went over to full beam when i was heavy handed with the indicators.

Another thing to add is that the rocker switch on the dash can wear out as the copper contacts inside move against each other, as i discovered taking them apart is not a good idea as all you find is a lot of bits of random metal that are extrememly fiddly to put back together.

#5 AlexM

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 01:10 PM

check that none of the wiring has melted, if you have lots of spotlights this might be the cause. if you are getting sparks it may suggest a short-circuit somewhere, check the wiring.

Check everything mentioned in the first post if you havent done so already.

#6 nagrub

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 04:03 PM

okay,will do. This is a stupid question I'm sure, but where do I even start to check for melted wires and stuff. Theres so many wires! lots of them are in the loom aswell, like with lots of grey tape wound round them all... do I need to un pick all that and have a look on the inside?

#7 Bungle

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 04:24 PM

unless you have added something to you car with a very big electrical load you wont have melted the wiring :smartass:

#8 binge

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 11:28 PM

you forgot to say this will happen at night in the middle of no where and you wont have any tool with you :w00t:

another reason why my fog lamps are wired up via a seperate circuit! :w00t:

#9 SamuliS

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Posted 14 November 2005 - 12:05 PM

How about making this a sticky to FAQ? because its great!

#10 soopercooper

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Posted 15 November 2005 - 01:18 PM

check that none of the wiring has melted, if you have lots of spotlights this might be the cause. if you are getting sparks it may suggest a short-circuit somewhere, check the wiring.

Check everything mentioned in the first post if you havent done so already.

If you want to have any extra lights - then wire a seperate relay operated circuit using some much thicker guage wire. Unfortunately, the wire used in mini looms is ahem.... 'cost effective' and will rarely be able to vake the extra current needed without a total meltdown.

#11 AlexM

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Posted 15 November 2005 - 09:31 PM

the wire used in mini looms is ahem.... 'cost effective' and will rarely be able to vake the extra current needed without a total meltdown.


Very true, especially rover mini's, everything about them seems to have been cost cutting measures.

#12 crocstarr

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:03 AM

right then im going to try and get the indicators, rear brake lights and reverse lights working today. i'll start of with fuses and connectors, also checking switches for hazards, then i'll check bulbs, also i'll be checking earths, and if nothing after that i'll follow the wiring. wish me luck then. im sure i'll be back on here later on asking what do i look for next.

#13 minislapper

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:18 AM

unless you have added something to you car with a very big electrical load you wont have melted the wiring :smartass:

Yes you can. The front loom is fitted with an extra wire which may or may not be used depending on which coil / system you have. If it is not in use, tape it up. If it shorts against the block it WILL melt the wiring.

#14 gsms

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:33 AM

My switch keeps melting ever since I put my halogens in! :gimme:

Is there a switch I can buy that can cope with the extra wattage/voltage..?

Cheers. Guy.

#15 Bungle

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:35 AM

i thought halogens were the same wattage as there is a max for road use :erm:




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