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Starting To Get Very Very Annoyed


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#61 mini danny

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:39 PM

Just to add theres to many people here trying to give the poor guy advice and alot of its conflicting.

Good luck with the mini dont give up on it. hope you get it running right soon

thanks matey yh ill cheak the dash pot now all the oil i have is halford classic engine oil

#62 mini danny

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:52 PM

just looked in to my dash pot thing and all i can see if a smaller tube where that ball thing goes into and cant see any oil will halfords classic oil be alright and could that be causing the engine to run rich ??

thanks danny

#63 samsfern

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:57 PM

20/50 engne oil is not ideal but will be ok, the proper dashpot oil should be used, i doubt that thats whats causing it to run rich.

Edited by samsernie, 23 May 2010 - 02:58 PM.


#64 Carlzilla

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:58 PM

the engine oil will do danny, use it to top up mine.

you might find the engine runs a little smoother after doing that, but it still may not solve your problem, itll be a start though :(

#65 mini danny

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 03:16 PM

ok thanks will top it up in a min does the oil id the dash oi lube up the ckoke float ??? thanks danny

#66 Ethel

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 03:17 PM

Handy pictures :(

The oil 20/50 is fine, goes in the tube within a tube you've found - give the brass end of the damper rod a wipe and push it back in; if you can feel resistance & it comes out with oil on there's enough. The oil damps the piston, exactly like a shock absorber. If there isn't any the piston vibrates up and down making the engine run lean. It also slows the piston down when you accelerate to enrich the mixture.

The points look like they might not have enough gap, but it's really impossible to tell from here. Put the car in gear so you can push it back and forth while watching the rotor arm. The objective is to get the heel of the points, that's the blue bit in your 3rd picture, sat in the middle of one of the 4 lobes on the shaft. The points gap should then be at its widest - That's the 2 round contact pads you can see right infront of the blue plaggy heel. You really need a set of feeler blades to check it, it should be 0.35 to 0.4mm. Fold a nice crisp bank note into 4 thicknesses and you won't be far off.

#67 mini danny

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 03:58 PM

thanks i was just about to put it in but thought i would mention when i put the ball thing in there is already resistance should i fill it any way thanks danny

#68 DeanP

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:30 PM

Mini Danny, please except my apologies. I thought you were quite or at least slightly experienced with car maintenance. It seems you know very little, so I'm sorry for the over technical advice advice earlier. My advice would be bear with it buddy, I think you'll find your problem is very basic and a "proper" garage would have had this sorted by now. It annoys me greatly when supposed skilled mechanics screw youngsters because of their/your naiveness. The carburetter is not a technical mind blowing phenomena, it's genius but not overly complicated, a decent mechanic should understand it upside down. You own one of the most fantastic cars ever designed, if you could get it up to Mere Green service station, Sutton Coldfield, I'd recommend these, they service a lot of BMC classics... MG's, Mini's my Moggy Minor etc. I wish I was local to you as I'd grab my dad by the scruff and drag him over and we'd get it running decent for you. Trust me this is an easy fix and probably not expensive if you could get a mate to help out, a new jet (if that is what is needed) is the dearest item at about £30 plus postage..

Edited by DeanP, 23 May 2010 - 08:33 PM.


#69 mini danny

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:30 AM

Mini Danny, please except my apologies. I thought you were quite or at least slightly experienced with car maintenance. It seems you know very little, so I'm sorry for the over technical advice advice earlier. My advice would be bear with it buddy, I think you'll find your problem is very basic and a "proper" garage would have had this sorted by now. It annoys me greatly when supposed skilled mechanics screw youngsters because of their/your naiveness. The carburetter is not a technical mind blowing phenomena, it's genius but not overly complicated, a decent mechanic should understand it upside down. You own one of the most fantastic cars ever designed, if you could get it up to Mere Green service station, Sutton Coldfield, I'd recommend these, they service a lot of BMC classics... MG's, Mini's my Moggy Minor etc. I wish I was local to you as I'd grab my dad by the scruff and drag him over and we'd get it running decent for you. Trust me this is an easy fix and probably not expensive if you could get a mate to help out, a new jet (if that is what is needed) is the dearest item at about £30 plus postage..

thanks ive just ordered my haynes so i think im gonna have a go buy a new jet and tune it my slef untill the fluffyness has gone worth a try if it still does the same its off to the garage thanks danny

#70 MRA

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:35 AM

Engine oil is generally a multigrade oil and can upset your tune if used within the dashpot........ which should only use a single grade oil.

#71 mini danny

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:54 AM

Engine oil is generally a multigrade oil and can upset your tune if used within the dashpot........ which should only use a single grade oil.

so im not to use engine oil can i buy the correct oil from halfords ?? thanks danny

#72 GraemeC

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 10:03 AM

Engine oil is not ideal - but will work.
The oil chosen is really part of the tuning, personally I use 3in1 oil and it suits my car perfectly although others will argue against its use. One plus point is that it come is a can with a squirty nozzle that makes it easy to top the dashpot up with !

#73 Brams96

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 04:34 PM

Danny - take a look HERE for a bit of carb info. If you want I can email a copy of the book over to you, PM me if you'd like it.




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