28 replies to this topic

[n00b]

yes indeed i have the 3.44 - 1 ratio which would explain why it was screaming its nnnnnnufs off at 70mph. I am hoping to replace the ratio drive for a wider one but im unsure of how far to go with it being a small bore thou. . im hoping the stage 3 will do a little more 1hp here and there. While im there im thinking of new springs and balls and some bualk rings for 1st and 2nd. Would you recommend new syncros too while its apart.

[n00b]

ive just read up on the a series gearbox the syncros and baulk rings are pretty much quite simmilar in being the exact same thing!?

[AndyMiniMad.]

Baulk rings are about £6 or £7 so i would replace all four while your in there. And you should allways replace the mainshaft double roller bearing. 3.44 drive is probably the best compromise for a 998 engine. if you increase the ratio to 3.1 then you will get a better high speed cruise, less revs at 70, but will loose out on acceleration. A standard 998 will really struggle beyond a 3.1 and would be dead if you fit a wide ratio gear set. Its all about torque really.

[Pigeonto]

one of the questions originaly asked was how to remove that nose bearing.As said,remove all the rollers and then the cage and at that point the socket will go on,removing the nut brings the inner part of the bearing off with it.

[n00b]

Baulk rings are about £6 or £7 so i would replace all four while your in there. And you should allways replace the mainshaft double roller bearing. 3.44 drive is probably the best compromise for a 998 engine. if you increase the ratio to 3.1 then you will get a better high speed cruise, less revs at 70, but will loose out on acceleration. A standard 998 will really struggle beyond a 3.1 and would be dead if you fit a wide ratio gear set. Its all about torque really.

In that case the final drive ratio will remain untill i happen to get my mits on a 1300. i did see minispares own BRings and for the cost of them i might aswell replace them too.

one of the questions originaly asked was how to remove that nose bearing.As said,remove all the rollers and then the cage and at that point the socket will go on,removing the nut brings the inner part of the bearing off with it.

thank you for your help, i have so far removed the rolllers and attempting to undo the nut but blimey. . its well and truely on there. Also Andyminimad did say the box will want to follow which is my main problem as i dont have a vice or what have you so Im considering using a mates windy gun to get the bladger off.

[AndyMiniMad.]

Be carefull if useing a windy gun, the shocks which undo the nut will travel up the shaft and into the gears which are holding the box ridgid. Could be bad news, £££££££, if a tooth snaps. i found the best way to hold the box was to jack the car up and GENTLY lower the weight onto the upturned box. Or if you know some one at a garage get the ramp lowered onto it, again only enough to hold it steady while you get the nuts off.

[n00b]

Be carefull if useing a windy gun, the shocks which undo the nut will travel up the shaft and into the gears which are holding the box ridgid. Could be bad news, £££££££, if a tooth snaps. i found the best way to hold the box was to jack the car up and GENTLY lower the weight onto the upturned box. Or if you know some one at a garage get the ramp lowered onto it, again only enough to hold it steady while you get the nuts off.

Thanks again for your help, i must be dragging this on although its my first rebuild.

im taking the box to a mini friendly garage and the guy said hell have a look. He specialises in rebuilds and gearboxs and supplies them for the local mini rally team

[AndyMiniMad.]

Be carefull if useing a windy gun, the shocks which undo the nut will travel up the shaft and into the gears which are holding the box ridgid. Could be bad news, £££££££, if a tooth snaps. i found the best way to hold the box was to jack the car up and GENTLY lower the weight onto the upturned box. Or if you know some one at a garage get the ramp lowered onto it, again only enough to hold it steady while you get the nuts off.

Thanks again for your help, i must be dragging this on although its my first rebuild.

im taking the box to a mini friendly garage and the guy said hell have a look. He specialises in rebuilds and gearboxs and supplies them for the local mini rally team

Why not start a project thread so we can watch your progress. I love a good laugh. only joking. Really its great to see how other people do stuff, and its how we all learn new ways of dealing with the problems.

[n00b]

Why not start a project thread so we can watch your progress. I love a good laugh. only joking. Really its great to see how other people do stuff, and its how we all learn new ways of dealing with the problems.

i may well have to, although it will most probably turn into a quiz with the amount of questions im asking.

Speaking of Q's haha i found this as it dropped out of the bottom when undoing the 150 f tighties when i turned the box over.



looks to be some sort of retaining ring? look familiar?

[n00b]

Iv had the box completley dissembled part for part, i cant see where it would have come from? *baffled*

[liirge]

wow! i'll have a think about what that is my guess right now is the half moon seal.

[n00b]

it does look like it, although i thought they where made from a rubber/plastic compound?

[GraemeC]

Looks like a cam bearing to me!

[liirge]

Is it not rubber? hard to tell from the picture, dont know if the 'HARD' half moon seals are rubber and metal backed?

but now you mention it a Cam bearing does fit the profile!

the other thing i can think of is a bush of some sort, maybe output shaft...its a bit of an enigma!