32 replies to this topic

[mike.]

Personally I think the roll pins are one of the most fiddly jobs to do.

Get the proper tool if you can: Link

It has a locating pin on the top which centres the punch into the pin. You'll need to put the car in reverse to line it up right and give the pin a proper smack

[Revive_British_Engineering]

Personally I think the roll pins are one of the most fiddly jobs to do.

Get the proper tool if you can: Link

It has a locating pin on the top which centres the punch into the pin. You'll need to put the car in reverse to line it up right and give the pin a proper smack

Thank you will order now! I can't get in reverse, as perviously said, will this cause me bother? The linkage at this point seams loose, a good 1-2mm either way on the coupling, is this as it should be??

[mike.]

Yeah its usually a little loose. It may make it abit harder to get the punch lined up with the pin if you can't get it in reverse, but i've done it before. It just takes alot more time and swearing

[Revive_British_Engineering]

Yeah its usually a little loose. It may make it abit harder to get the punch lined up with the pin if you can't get it in reverse, but i've done it before. It just takes alot more time and swearing

Thanks for all your help so far, I have bought the punch from mini spares and as soon as it arrives I will get the pins out and look at this gearlinkage assembly with the KAD attached, see if i can get it off!
by the way Im beginning to get used to putting in time and swearing a lot! and emptying my wallet every weekend on parts!

[bmcecosse]

My advice - remove the complete daft 'kwik shaft' linkage and throw it away. Fit a standard gearchange assembly and be happy! I have never seen the point in these - and the troubles they cause are legendary. Get rid of it! To have your car off the road because of something like this is just madness..........

Edited by bmcecosse, 17 July 2010 - 04:03 PM.

[Sleepy Stu]

My advice - remove the complete daft 'kwik shaft' linkage and throw it away. Fit a standard gearchange assembly and be happy! I have never seen the point in these - and the troubles they cause are legendary. Get rid of it! To have your car off the road because of something like this is just madness..........

Lol we have heard this so many times now its getting stupid. As has been cleared up in many other numerous threads the only issuses people come across are when they have a cheap copy fitted. Ive yet to hear from anybody who had a problem with the genuine KAD item.

[Revive_British_Engineering]

Yeah its usually a little loose. It may make it abit harder to get the punch lined up with the pin if you can't get it in reverse, but i've done it before. It just takes alot more time and swearing

OK, Bl@@dy nightmare! Got the drift from mini spares and removed the roll pin after muchous swearing and time. I then find that the steady bar is held in place by a bolt which doesn’t pass the exhaust manifold! So after removing the carbs and the exhaust manifold from the engine block, I could finally tease the exhaust aside to remove the bolt. The rod change housing, with the “KAD” housing was still firmly fitted. I decided to grind off the old “KAD” fitting hurting my wallet severely! See photo attached, I tried heating bashing, cutting being the only way forward!

Before I removed it I noted that the “KAD” housing alignment holes were approximately 4mm out of round and the unit was some 3-4mm higher than it should have been.

Would these holes been out of alignment to this extent, cause the poor 3 gear position and loss of positive reverse?

My second question is; why did the original “fitter” need to hammer it on so far and still not achieve an adequate fit, as it seems like a standard rod change housing??

Attached Files

•  KAD.bmp   1018.18K   48 downloads

[mini-mad-mark]

Don't know if anyone will read this far but just in case......

I bought a "KAD type quickshift" but in fact it turned out to be the KAK type !!

I was offered a new one by the supplier but was not confident it would be any better and not being able to afford the genuine thing (think they were 90quid then) I thought I'd set about trying to find out the problems.

Cable too long to pull up the plunger far enough at the end of the gear lever - shortened it and thought yaayyy but.....
Plunger too long to clear the detent in the housing even after after step 1 - ground a bit off the plunger
Profile of the slot in the ball on the lever incorrect so it would not go far enough over to select reverse - modified it deeper
Then the poly ball at the end was too big to go into the socket in the housing - sanded it down to fit but whilst doing that noticed that.....
The circlip grooves were badly machined so the circlip (and then the ball) popped off one day - no gears luckily about 200 yds from home - cleaned up/deepened with a hack saw
The round part of the Q/S was actually not that snug a fit on the housing so after a couple of months the threads in the Q/S pulled out - barely any gears again - drill and tap four holes to clamp it on

But now its absolutely rock solid and works great - I should have taken pictures for a "fix-it guide"

Spent 29.99 plus about six hours on three separate occasions - was it worth it?

I actually really like the lift collar reverse but should have lashed out for the genuine KAD item, would have been the most expensive part of the car though ha-ha!!!

[mike.]

A genuine KAD quickshift should just slot straight in and the screws provided should line up with the holes in the rod change housing. The non genuine quick shifts really do cause sooo many problems. My KAD one just bolted straight on with no problems and I love it.

They are expensive thought like anything KAD. The only reason I bought one was because my old lever was bodged into place by a previous owner...

If the holes in the rod housing or quickshift housing were out of alignment etc then this could definatly cause you problems as the whole gear lever won't be in the position its supposed to be in.

Have you damaged the rod change housing now by grinding the quickshift off?

[Revive_British_Engineering]

A genuine KAD quickshift should just slot straight in and the screws provided should line up with the holes in the rod change housing. The non genuine quick shifts really do cause sooo many problems. My KAD one just bolted straight on with no problems and I love it.

They are expensive thought like anything KAD. The only reason I bought one was because my old lever was bodged into place by a previous owner...

If the holes in the rod housing or quickshift housing were out of alignment etc then this could definatly cause you problems as the whole gear lever won't be in the position its supposed to be in.

Have you damaged the rod change housing now by grinding the quickshift off?

Yes, similar situation, mine was fitted by the pervious owner, obviously all he had in his tool box was a hammer!

Fortunatly I was able to grind it off with out too much trouble. I nicked the casing with the grinder, but nothing to get in a twist about. I have degreased it all (the grease in the rod box was certainly an origional feature). I have ordered a genuine KAD quickshift from Minispares, as painful as it is to have to shell out so much time and money just because someone could not be bothered to fit it correctly in the first place!

Edited by Revive_British_Engineering, 23 July 2010 - 08:48 AM.

[Guess-Works.com]

Personally I'd bin it and put a std stick on...

[Revive_British_Engineering]

Personally I'd bin it and put a std stick on...

I dont have any origional gear stick parts, and I didnt know where to get one from. obviously when the unit i reomved was fitted, the previous owner must have thrown all the origional bits!!

[mike.]

What are the holes like in the rod housing? Have they been damaged at all?

The bolts you get with the KAD quickshift are self tapping, but the last quick shift may have damaged the holes in the housing and made them too big.

The genuine KAD ones work perfectly and if there is a problem - At least you've got a good company to speak to about it.

[mike.]

I was going to put a standard lever in mine after mine broke, but then I saw the price for a new one.

Heres the new lever: Link Thats currently on offer and still costs £45

Then you'd need this: Link For £30

You'd also need to get a couple of these and mount them in the rod housing for the shroud to locate onto: Link

So if you buy new its a better bet to get a KAD quickshift.

[Revive_British_Engineering]

What are the holes like in the rod housing? Have they been damaged at all?

The bolts you get with the KAD quickshift are self tapping, but the last quick shift may have damaged the holes in the housing and made them too big.

The genuine KAD ones work perfectly and if there is a problem - At least you've got a good company to speak to about it.

As far as i can tell, the dam thing was so tightly brayed on that I dont think the holes have ever lined up. When i first examined the problem, one of the bolts was screwed into the "Kad" housing, but not through into the rod casting due to the holes not lining up - Im keeping my fingers crossed and as soon as i have the part I will post photos etc. It has not been a smooth ride so far, so im hoping for a little luck now..