Trailer Project For Fern
#1
Posted 30 July 2010 - 09:15 AM
Anyway here are a few pics of it from eaby, I dont have any yet because we dont pick it up until the weekend after Bewlwater. It doesn't come with a roof so I will have to come up with some other ingenious way of making a hard top. Very minimal welding is needed if any so It should be just a case of building not repairing. The plan is to have it deseamed and as smooth & aerodynamic as possible,I might even be fitting a flat panel underneath to try and reduce the drag. Also I will probably be fitting some sort of round sheilding at the front.
I'm already working on building up the subframe for it, we had it, the hubs and backplates sandblasted and I'm in the process of seam welding it now while I learn to weld. It's good practice.
Anyway, stay tuned
#2
Posted 30 July 2010 - 09:20 AM
#3
Posted 04 August 2010 - 12:46 AM
I have bought the Plugs for the trailer and car so far. I decided to go with the new 13 pin euro plug instead of the 7 pin brit one as it will give more flexability should I want to wire something elso through to the trailer. Apart from that there isn't much progress and wont be til I pick up the shell, which I'm really looking forward to!
#4
Posted 04 August 2010 - 08:59 AM
Regarding your solid lid, go round a breakers yard with a tape measure and find a suitable doner car for the roof. if you use a Mini roof it will be too narrow and need widening. The other option is to create a frame to support a vinyl cover held on with pop studs.
There are enogh people on here who have built trailers and can give you some solid advice, because we have all made some mistakes and thats the best training you can get
Edited by customcart, 04 August 2010 - 09:00 AM.
#5
Posted 04 August 2010 - 09:26 PM
I have been thinking about the tow bar issue and thought if I use tube steel and plug & seam weld a smaller tube inside 1 end and then slot the 2 pieces together and bolt them, I can remove it for easier storage. With enough of the inner tube inside the other there shouldn't be any strength issues. Here's a quick example I mocked up:
Attached Files
Edited by Brams96, 04 August 2010 - 09:41 PM.
#6
Posted 05 August 2010 - 10:24 AM
If you take your design, make the bolt holes vertical with bolts in the top, that way if the nut falls off the nuts won't rattle out so easily!
Dave
#7
Posted 05 August 2010 - 01:33 PM
My drawbar is removable but done differently, the rear of the bar slots into a socket at the rear of the subframe and bolts to the front of the trailer with a welded T section. I did it this way to keep it all rigid, in the past I have done similar to what you are suggesting, but found that after a while, the joint started to wobble and made the bolts loosen occasionaly.
The only thing i would, (will in the future ) change on this one, is to remove the subframe and build a lightweight T section axle and drawbar combined, this will vastly reduce weight and also be fully take down for storage. I will not bother with suspension either as experience has shown me that once the trailer is light enough, running soft tyre pressures is ample considering the maximum legal towing weight for a Mini.
Hope this helps
How are you getting on with yours Dave ?
#8
Posted 08 August 2010 - 01:04 PM
Sounds like a good idea.
Mine's going okay, but this weekend has been all partying, and no welding, and today's not shaping up to be any different.
I've got the front almost done on mine, then can spray and mount it before getting onto the roof, which I'm really not looking forward too!
D
#9
Posted 08 August 2010 - 02:34 PM
I put a U plate on the sub frame and then 2x holes which you can see and a plate which fits to the towing arm etc so i can remove it for storeage good done
the lock for the lid is in side the trailer so to make it safe
All finished
PS i cut 50mm back from the door shuts/lock hope this helps
Edited by macfoot, 08 August 2010 - 02:46 PM.
#10
Posted 08 August 2010 - 06:46 PM
Customcart - Cheers for the advice, I've read all the trailer threads on here and have been gathering info from other trailers I have seen. Do you have any advice or tips from your build? Or things you did that you would change now if you did it again?
I have been thinking about the tow bar issue and thought if I use tube steel and plug & seam weld a smaller tube inside 1 end and then slot the 2 pieces together and bolt them, I can remove it for easier storage. With enough of the inner tube inside the other there shouldn't be any strength issues. Here's a quick example I mocked up:
i've got a tow bar on my very simular i;ve got a tube that bolts on to the subframe and seat base, then the actual tow bar slides inside this tube and is held in by 2 bolt/pins with R clips securing them, then the electrics are hooked up under the rear valance, some pics
and the trailer
#11
Posted 09 August 2010 - 06:38 AM
#12
Posted 09 August 2010 - 04:50 PM
#13
Posted 09 August 2010 - 07:30 PM
JR.
#14
Posted 10 August 2010 - 05:50 AM
#15
Posted 10 August 2010 - 04:08 PM
Edited by macfoot, 10 August 2010 - 04:18 PM.
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