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best con rods to use?


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#16 Jammy

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 03:52 PM

lets not start that again Jammy.....we all know you're going to be miles behind me....listening to the evocative Eaton whine..... :fear:  :grin:

Ahhh, you give credit where credits unearned! I very much doubt I'll get so far ahead as to be lapping you! :grin:

You know arrow do titanium rods Madmax? Now I very much doubt they'd ever fail you!

#17 Purple Tom

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 04:02 PM

Lol, now that would be tricky, been as though you're only allowed to do one lap! :wink:

The proof is in the postmans trousers anyway..... :grin:

#18 wolfie

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 04:45 PM

and whats wrong with A+ rods? your talking about a high reving engine but to get into the league of steel bottom ends you wil have to run a race cam that will be totaly unusable on the road

IMHO get a good set of A+ rods and crank and get it all expertly balanced and one other thing you can spend al the money in the world on components but if the engine is not built well it wont last 5 mins personally i would save money on a unnecessary steel bottom end and spend to money on a good engine builder

#19 Oldskoolbaby

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 08:45 PM

Id second that wolfie. Morspeed was telling me how Miglias run A+rods with no problems. Its not like your going to snap them with a fast road motor. Arrow and Corillo rod are far too extreme for a road engne and are purely overkill. If however I were building a super short stoke, high reving motor then only then would I consider.

If I was you, Id stick to the usuall rods, have them reworked ie polished/shotpeened and balanced and fit some ARP bolts.

#20 Madmax

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 08:55 PM

well ive considered the 1310 route, but im unsure of where to source the bits and bobs, as the 1310 has a different stroke...


1380 is a cheaper option :thumbsup: but its not going to be that cheap...

im aiming for at least 110 nannygoats at the wheels

#21 Madmax

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 08:56 PM

so if i get my A+ rods well sorted you think it'll be ok?

#22 Oldskoolbaby

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 09:05 PM

Perfectly fine. Contact Morspeed and theyll sort you out. I see some they prepared and like my crank they looked excellent. That £700 yu were going to spend on rods could go toward something much more worth while on your build.

#23 Oldskoolbaby

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 09:09 PM

What exactly are you planning on doing to your bottom end other than rods?

#24 Madmax

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 09:12 PM

4 bolt centre main, tuftrided and balanced crank, SC drops and box, LSD and ARP bolts throughout

#25 Oldskoolbaby

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 09:18 PM

LSD?? :nugget: I take it its a Quaife Torque biased diff. If your going for reliability, you want the the crank X drilling. Lubes the big end more.

Fitting them rods to that crank is definatly pointless though. The crank will suffer damage long before the Arrow rod give up.

#26 Madmax

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 12:35 AM

would it be best to have a billet crank then?

#27 Oldskoolbaby

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 01:27 AM

Your looking at a bottom end worth well over 2grand when you add a billet crank to the list. You just wont get any rewards through spending that much money on a road engine. Yor only ever going to get any benefits from fitting them parts if your talking 150+bhp on a n/a motor.

Im building a 7 port turbo and am aiming for around 170bhp. My cranks an early turbo crank, which is made from a better grade of material and its been tuftriden, bladded, wedged, lightened and balanced. The con rods will be A+ and reworked ie shot peened, polished, lightened and balanced. The bearings will be good quality ones. Itll be fitted with a 4 bolt center main and the all important ARP bolts will be used as much as possible. On a n/a motor, Im pretty sure this will be bomb proof or near about, for a road engine that is. Like I mentioned, the crank can take 8krpm and Im sure a fast road engine is not going to be used to these lengths.

#28 minimarco

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 03:56 AM

You know arrow do titanium rods Madmax? Now I very much doubt they'd ever fail you!


how heavy are stock rods comparing to titanium ones? and are bike engine rods usable?

#29 miniboo

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 04:55 AM

holy post revival batman!! must be a record.

not sure on the standard rod weight but they can be lightened and balanced end to end.

i dont think the titanium ones will be worth the cost to be honest.

#30 minimarco

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 05:15 AM

holy post revival batman!! must be a record.


gosh golly jee williger zippidy jippidy doo! batman!
yea i didnt want to make another thread seeing this is a good one

not sure on the standard rod weight but they can be lightened and balanced end to end.


would it weaken it though? ofcourse it would be to a sensible degree..but i dont want it to snap and ruin the block
im planning on what to do to a spare 998 and trying to get the most reliable bhp out of it (tired of people suggesting the easy 1275 route). my mini garage dude knows a guy in australia that could make flat top pistons with a 120thou taken off (if i heard correctly...and making 8bhp with the pistons alone) but he's still testing it. hes also got a race n/a 998 pushing 90bhp

i dont think the titanium ones will be worth the cost to be honest.


yea didnt think so, but was just wondering. a billet crank wont be worth the money for a road car as well

Edited by minimarco, 26 February 2007 - 05:22 AM.





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