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Shock Absorber Mount Repair


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#1 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 01:43 PM

After finding a hole next to my shock absorber mount, I thought the metal behind the mount must of been in pretty bad condition.

So I've just taken off the mount on each side and theres not alot left of the metal behind them. I've just had a mobile welder come round and He said if I just grind out the rust and cut out a nice square where I want a plate putting he'll come down and weld it in for me.

My first question is the top 2 bolts sheared off instantly under the slightest force when trying to remove them. So the first thing is to get those out - What are peoples suggestions for this?

I have a set of stud extractors AKA 'easy outs' but apart form that what are my other options? I could drill them out - But I dont really want to damage the threads - So could I drill them out without damaging the threads? Because I'm unsure my drill will fit under the wing properly to drill them out squarely...

Also i've drawn on where I plan to cut - Does this look ok? I don't want to cut too far to the right because of the curve that occurs in the inner wing about an inch to the right of the shock mount. I'm hoping I can keep it as a flat patch so I can make it myself to save some money.

Finally the area i've marked with a cross. How can I Stop in the rusting, that won't go up in flames when the guy comes to weld it?

Here a pics of whats left:

Posted Image

Help will be much appreciated as this will be the first proper preparation of this sort i've done...

#2 Miniowner123

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 01:50 PM

this section is made up of 2 layers of steel, one is the inner wing itself and one is the stiffener behind, so if wanting to keep original layer it back up when repairing
Posted Image

also the end of the bulkhead area (behind this repair) you can get to by where the pedal box fits, say you can spray some waxoil or something down in there to protect it, after the welding of course lol

#3 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 01:54 PM

I did think it must have been because some of the chunks of rust were pretty thick.

So i'd have to effectively get 2 plates put in - One on top of the other?

Or would one thicker plate be ok?

Bearing in mind I am considering coilovers in the next couple of years.

The welder only had a quick look, but I think he's hoping to just put one plate in....

#4 Miniowner123

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 02:02 PM

2 layers is obviously more original but i wouldnt see a problem with a thicker plate welded in place, your car, your call :D

#5 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 02:09 PM

Well i've got some metal plates - Enough to make 2 patches, one for each side but not 4 patches.

The plates i've got are about 2mm thick - Would that be thick enough for a good strong repair?

#6 Deathrow

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 02:18 PM

As long as your 2mm sheet gets good penetration, I can't see any issues.

Then when the welding is done, get the waxoyl up in to the crossmember ends from inside the car (pedal box openings on both sides of the car).

Jobs a good en!

This should give you a better idea of how the area is when it's apart if it helps at all:

Posted Image

#7 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 03:36 PM

Ahh Yeah I can see how it works now thanks.

Think i'll try just putting one thick piece there rather than layering.

Any ideas on how to get those snapped studs out?

Once i've cut the square area out i'll have a better idea if i'll be able to grip hold of them or not. I'm guessing I won't be able to though...

#8 Deathrow

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 05:07 PM

Best bet is going to be run a drill through them which is smaller than the threads in the hole, but will remove the majority of the screws body.

Then run a tap through the hole.

That's how I did the one that I managed to snap in there.

#9 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 05:15 PM

It'd work but I doubt i'm going to get able to get a drill under the wing...

#10 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 05:48 PM

I doubt if you'll get those bolts out, I'd drill them and replace them with a nut and bolt, the top ones are accessible from the engine bay, behind the triangular bulkhead/inner wing strengthener. Ideally you'll need 2 layers of metal the inner and outer. If you don't use 2 layers, use good thick steel and make sure it's welded to both layers of the surrounding metal.

#11 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 06:17 PM

If I were to use 2 layers. What would the process be?

Like I said i've got some pretty thick 2mm steel that I've got enough of to make one thick patch for each side.

So i'll cut out the rot back to good metal, then cut a plate out to fit the hole.

Would I get the thick piece welding in first, then get the mobile welder to put another, wider patch over the top of it made of thinner metal?

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 07:04 PM

2 mm is too thick, try 1.2mm or .9mm. What you should see behind the inner wing is a plate like this, before
Posted Image
and after
Posted Image

This is made from 1.2mm steel, i know you do not have the inner wing off but it gives you an idea of what it looks like. Then weld the outer plate onto this. Like panelbeaterpeter says drill out the bolts and weld new nuts onto the block or you could replace the block by making your own.

Edited by sonikk4, 14 September 2010 - 07:07 PM.


#13 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 09:57 PM

Thanks, I see what your saying.

But whats wrong with getting a thicker plate made of the 2mm stuff i've got welded in first, drill where the mount holes will be. Then get a thinner piece welded ontop thats maybe and inch bigger than the last.

Like I said before, in the future i'm thinking about coilovers - So theres a chance the whole weight of the car will be on those mounts in future. So surely abit of extra beef in that area isn't a problem if I can make the patches and the welder is happy to weld them on for me.

#14 daveeeeee

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 10:04 PM

Drilling bolts out is tricky business but I'd just get stuck in, if you mess up the thread you can always weld new captives in or perhaps use a helicoil if theres enough beef left around it.

#15 mike.

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 10:16 PM

I'll just drill through them and use a new nut and bolt. PBP says you can get to the top ones from behind, so thats alrite.




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