
How To Fit A Sump Guard
#31
Posted 26 January 2011 - 01:25 PM
there saving the block paving from getting oil'y:)
#32
Posted 04 February 2011 - 11:34 AM
#33
Posted 04 February 2011 - 12:51 PM
#34
Posted 04 February 2011 - 02:49 PM
I heard the auto sump hangs lower, not sure if im correct?
#35
Posted 04 February 2011 - 02:55 PM
i just know there's certain bits of road near me that you can scrape the arse out of most cars without even trying!
#36
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:11 PM
#37
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:21 PM
I have a shiny new gearbox courtesy of Guessworks, the sump guard is to protect my investment.
oil cooler?
#38
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:28 PM
Nope, it just protects the sump.oil cooler?I have a shiny new gearbox courtesy of Guessworks, the sump guard is to protect my investment.

#39
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:39 PM
It's when you have a sump guard 2 or more large spotlights and low gearing, as you would on a rally car, and then use mega-revs at a relatively low speed through the gears and keep that up for a long distance that the problems start to happen.
Personally I think even a basic sump guard is a good idea even on a road car what with all the speed bumps these days. It's very expensive if you crack the sump!
If you do fit a guard without a cooler you could just fit an oil pressure gauge and/or oil temp gauge to monitor things.
Remember that a sump guard will reduce the ground clearance by at least 3/4" so it might be good to raise the car up a bit if you drive on bumpy roads.
#40
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:44 PM
For normal road driving you are probably OK with a sump guard and no oil cooler so long as the front of the guard has some holes to allow air to flow. The oil will obviously get a bit hotter, but with a mineral 20w50 that should not be an issue.
It's when you have a sump guard 2 or more large spotlights and low gearing, as you would on a rally car, and then use mega-revs at a relatively low speed through the gears and keep that up for a long distance that the problems start to happen.
Personally I think even a basic sump guard is a good idea even on a road car what with all the speed bumps these days. It's very expensive if you crack the sump!
If you do fit a guard without a cooler you could just fit an oil pressure gauge and/or oil temp gauge to monitor things.
Remember that a sump guard will reduce the ground clearance by at least 3/4" so it might be good to raise the car up a bit if you drive on bumpy roads.
cheers for that, suppose getting a gauge first would be the best way, just to monitor it
#41
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:53 PM
For normal road driving you are probably OK with a sump guard and no oil cooler so long as the front of the guard has some holes to allow air to flow. The oil will obviously get a bit hotter, but with a mineral 20w50 that should not be an issue.
It's when you have a sump guard 2 or more large spotlights and low gearing, as you would on a rally car, and then use mega-revs at a relatively low speed through the gears and keep that up for a long distance that the problems start to happen.
Personally I think even a basic sump guard is a good idea even on a road car what with all the speed bumps these days. It's very expensive if you crack the sump!
If you do fit a guard without a cooler you could just fit an oil pressure gauge and/or oil temp gauge to monitor things.
Remember that a sump guard will reduce the ground clearance by at least 3/4" so it might be good to raise the car up a bit if you drive on bumpy roads.
cheers for that, suppose getting a gauge first would be the best way, just to monitor it
Yes, I reckon that would be best. If you monitor it then it's safe and if there is a 'hot oil' problem you can easily add a cooler later.
To be fair, the example I gave was a long time ago with a newish 998 Cooper. I fitted a long curved guard, had 4 additional lights, a low diff, 3.76:1, and drove up the M1 at about 5300 rpm for around 15 miles. The pressure dropped alarmingly to around 30 psi at 5000 rpm. It also had the useless 16-blade 'air-blocking' standard (at the time) fan. After I fitted a cooler and a 4-blade fan it was fine. Now I always fit a cooler if I fit a guard, but it's probably not absolutely needed in a road car.
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