32 replies to this topic

[Neilson]

Thanks for the reply.

So I also need to get the alarm e c you from the same car too? Where is that and where would I Find it?

Cheers

J

Its inside the car, behind the dash. (Passenger side I think)

[1995 MK2 IOM]

Think I got it... (number 9 in picture)

Cheers

J

[wardyxxx]

Thanks for the reply.

So I also need to get the alarm e c you from the same car too? Where is that and where would I Find it?

Cheers

J

Its inside the car, behind the dash. (Passenger side I think)

Aye, that where mine be. Next to the glove box. I know because I took it to bits to wire in my central locking harness. Remote central locking ftw!

[1995 MK2 IOM]

Thanks for the reply.

So I also need to get the alarm e c you from the same car too? Where is that and where would I Find it?

Cheers

J

Its inside the car, behind the dash. (Passenger side I think)

Aye, that where mine be. Next to the glove box. I know because I took it to bits to wire in my central locking harness. Remote central locking ftw!

i'm not jealous!!!

I want central locking!!! was it hard to do by the way?

Thanks!

J

[1995 MK2 IOM]

Right got alarm ECU now...

fitted to car...

but I've still got a problem when I fully press down the accelerator... it coughs and doesn't speed up as much as when I only have the accelerator half way down?

the idling is better with the new ECU - which must have helped with something... but just not solved the key fault...

any ideas anyone?

Cheers

J

[PaulF]

throttle position sensor?

[Sprocket]

I have yet to come accross a faulty MAP sensor in the ECU. The norm is that the small black pipes are either disconnected, blocked, or split.

Check that these small pipes are connected properly and make very sure that none of the elbow ends are split!. Pipe should run from the back of the manifold, to the fuel trap at the side of the throttle body, then from there to the ECU.Blow through them and make sure they are clear. If you still have the airbox, make sure that the red pipe is also attached to the rear of the manifold and the vacuum valve on the airbox, if you have the K&N, either blank off the stub at the back of the manifold that the red pipe would have attached to, or plug the open end of the red pipe.

One other possability that can cause this is if the clutch has been replaced with an AP clutch rather than a Valeo resulting in a a change in crank position sensor reading.

Get it on a code reader, and ignore any of the fault code diagnosis menues, they are useless. Post up the live data for TPS, MAP, ignition advance, stepper position and whether lambda volts are fluctuating or fixed high or fixed low.

Edited by Sprocket, 29 January 2011 - 12:56 PM.

[1995 MK2 IOM]

I have yet to come accross a faulty MAP sensor in the ECU. The norm is that the small black pipes are either disconnected, blocked, or split.

Check that these small pipes are connected properly and make very sure that none of the elbow ends are split!. Pipe should run from the back of the manifold, to the fuel trap at the side of the throttle body, then from there to the ECU.Blow through them and make sure they are clear. If you still have the airbox, make sure that the red pipe is also attached to the rear of the manifold and the vacuum valve on the airbox, if you have the K&N, either blank off the stub at the back of the manifold that the red pipe would have attached to, or plug the open end of the red pipe.

One other possability that can cause this is if the clutch has been replaced with an AP clutch rather than a Valeo resulting in a a change in crank position sensor reading.

Get it on a code reader, and ignore any of the fault code diagnosis menues, they are useless. Post up the live data for TPS, MAP, ignition advance, stepper position and whether lambda volts are fluctuating or fixed high or fixed low.

Thanks Sprocket!

I have got it booked back in on the 2nd Feb to get t ha info. I will take your notes to the guy at the garage and get the info you need

Cheers

Jaon

[icklemini]

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=178710


:s

Edited by icklemini, 30 January 2011 - 01:18 PM.

[Sprocket]

Ah Ok then, this RR guy knew what he was doing then, since the computer told him so.

I doubt that the ECU is to blame since you have had two on this car and still got the problem. This to me indicates the fault is on the car. At idle the MAP sensor should be reading somewhere around 500mmHG vacuum. if its not, fit a vac guage and check that the MAP sensor is infact reading the same or similar value, if it is and the vacuum is dramatically less than 500mmhg, there is a problem elsewhere. If the vacuum is getting towards 300mmhg, the idles will start to suffer.

Check the ignition advance reading, it should be 15 degrees + or - 5 degrees at idle, if it is any more or any less, there is an issue with the stepper motor, whether it is just 'out of tune' or whether it itself is faulty. ignition advance less than 10 degrees tends to lower the vacuum in the manifold. A major air leak can also create these symptoms.

Basically, get the car plugged into a diagnostic and post up the data requested so that those who have experience with the mini can help direct you to the problem. without actual figures, there is no point anyone speculating any further.

Also picking up on what Icklemini has already suggested, is that pushing the ends of the pipes on too far can block them off. This is especially true if the wrong type of 'elbow' has been used in the wrong place.

The SPi needs tuning but not in the manor most will ever consider, and when the system is out of tune, all sorts of symptoms appear.

As for Camco88, I can recommend them. They are local to me and have used them in the past for other things. They are a Network500 agent, and have the facilities to fully diagnostic check all the inputs and outputs of any ECU via a central computer database. Simply put, they plug the ECU into a machine that runs tests to determine any faults. It is NOT hit and miss, it is definative.

Edited by Sprocket, 30 January 2011 - 04:23 PM.

[1995 MK2 IOM]

Ah Ok then, this RR guy knew what he was doing then, since the computer told him so.

I doubt that the ECU is to blame since you have had two on this car and still got the problem. This to me indicates the fault is on the car. At idle the MAP sensor should be reading somewhere around 500mmHG vacuum. if its not, fit a vac guage and check that the MAP sensor is infact reading the same or similar value, if it is and the vacuum is dramatically less than 500mmhg, there is a problem elsewhere. If the vacuum is getting towards 300mmhg, the idles will start to suffer.

Check the ignition advance reading, it should be 15 degrees + or - 5 degrees at idle, if it is any more or any less, there is an issue with the stepper motor, whether it is just 'out of tune' or whether it itself is faulty. ignition advance less than 10 degrees tends to lower the vacuum in the manifold. A major air leak can also create these symptoms.

Basically, get the car plugged into a diagnostic and post up the data requested so that those who have experience with the mini can help direct you to the problem. without actual figures, there is no point anyone speculating any further.

Also picking up on what Icklemini has already suggested, is that pushing the ends of the pipes on too far can block them off. This is especially true if the wrong type of 'elbow' has been used in the wrong place.

The SPi needs tuning but not in the manor most will ever consider, and when the system is out of tune, all sorts of symptoms appear.

As for Camco88, I can recommend them. They are local to me and have used them in the past for other things. They are a Network500 agent, and have the facilities to fully diagnostic check all the inputs and outputs of any ECU via a central computer database. Simply put, they plug the ECU into a machine that runs tests to determine any faults. It is NOT hit and miss, it is definative.

Hi Sprocket

I have been to the garage again today, here are the figures you asked about:

TPS - as it should be

Ignition Advance - also as it should be

Stepper position - as is should

lambda volts are fluctuating

the MAP when the engine is:
1. off is 1000MB
2. Idling is 260MB
3. At 3000 rpm - 2500MB - ignition timing goes down to -25 at this point too
4. with VAC pipe disconnected - at 3000rpm - 1500MB

The guy at the garage said he cant understand why its doing what its doing... like you have said, he said its very unusual for the MAP sensor to go... and now its a different ECU - it must be a different problem, although he cannot think of what it may be... he suggested that someone on here might have heard of a similar problem...

Cheers

J

[Sprocket]

I am sorry but without the actual data I requested or without looking at it my self, I cannot begin to help any further.

[1995 MK2 IOM]

I am sorry but without the actual data I requested or without looking at it my self, I cannot begin to help any further.

Ok, here is the data for the others:

TPS - 0.5 V at tickover

see below...

Edited by 1995 MK2 IOM, 03 February 2011 - 10:52 AM.

[1995 MK2 IOM]

I am sorry but without the actual data I requested or without looking at it my self, I cannot begin to help any further.

Ok, here is the data for the others:

TPS - 0.5 V at tick over - 3 v open throttle

MAP when the engine is:
1. off is 1000MB
2. Idling is 260MB
3. At 3000 rpm - 2500MB - ignition timing goes down to -25 at this point too
4. with VAC pipe disconnected - at 3000rpm - 1500MB

Ignition advance - 15 degrees going to -27 degrees

Stepper position - T.O varying, 116 with revs

Lambda fluctuating from 200Mv to -750Mv

Hope that helps?

Thanks

Jason

Edited by 1995 MK2 IOM, 03 February 2011 - 10:53 AM.

[1995 MK2 IOM]

Bump