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2k Paint Help


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#1 mini_clubman

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 06:57 PM

hi everyone.

i am currently restoring a mini clubman which i have decided to respray in kawasaki green!

i will respray the car under a galizbo in my back garden and i am wondering the best paint for me?

i have read through the paint topics on here but i still dont get is do i need to lacquer to basecoat or not? and also does the lacqure need to be applied withing 1hour of basecoat.

What paint can i use that i can lacquer say the next day. i heard 2pack is quite easy

i already have a compressor, moisture traps and will soon have two hvlp spray guns

Please help!!!!

Thanks Charlie

Edited by mini_clubman, 23 February 2011 - 06:58 PM.


#2 wassupcrew

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 07:00 PM

hi everyone.

i am currently restoring a mini clubman which i have decided to respray in kawasaki green!

i will respray the car under a galizbo in my back garden and i am wondering the best paint for me?

i have read through the paint topics on here but i still dont get is do i need to lacquer to basecoat or not? and also does the lacqure need to be applied withing 1hour of basecoat.

What paint can i use that i can lacquer say the next day. i heard 2pack is quite easy

Please help!!!!

Thanks Charlie



i have never had a problem laquering bassecoat the next day. probsably not ideal but its always been ok for me. with 2k you dont need to laquer it, you can if you want but its a gloss paint so doesnt need it. i find that if you mix the last coat of 2k 50-50 with laquer it gives a deep gloss

#3 mini_clubman

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 07:31 PM

hi.

So is it ok for me to spray in this sequence?

1 - Prepare the surface ready for painting

2 - Spray about three coats of primer and sand inbetween coats until a smooth surface

3 - Spray my kawasaki green 2k basecoat about 3 times do i allow each coat to dry??

4 - Then the next day can i Spray the 2k Lacquer ?. or for the last coat should i mix 50/50 basecoat and lacquer and not lacquer the next day?

Sorry about this i am new to spraying :)


Thanks for your help it has been of great help


Thanks Charlie

Edited by mini_clubman, 23 February 2011 - 07:42 PM.


#4 tommy13

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:41 PM

You need to look into whether your Kawasaki green is available as a 2K "solid" colour or just a base coat. (or both).
With the solid colour you add the hardener and this gives you your gloss finish. No laquering or base coat is required but you can laquer if you wish.
With the base coat system, the base coat requires no hardener(only thinner) and really just provides your colour, so 3 coats may not be needed. 2 is more usual providing the colour is even throughout there is little to be gained by putting more on. Drying is temp dependant and you can touch the paint on a masked off area to get some idea of whether you are ready for another coat. The base coat usually turns matt as it dries and this is when many painters choose to apply the clear 2 pack laquer. There may be a better chemical bond with the base coat at this time, i'm not sure. The laquer is peeling off my bumpers and when I asked the guy who painted them, he said it may be because he laquered them the next day, but this was 6 years later.
The isocyanate we hear about is in the hardener which is used with the laquer and the solid colour type paint. Air fed masks should be used when spraying this to avoil the fumes.

#5 andy pandy

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:50 PM

dependant on what paint you get, ask for technical data sheet, this will tell you mixing ratios flash off time [time between coats of paint], all the info needed to use the paint, you bought be carefull sprayin out side /in a gazzebo in cold weather, have space heater, warm area up, this will help to stop the paint blooming [paint going milky/matt colour from the cold] hence why alot of modern spray booths are now heated temp controled

Edited by andy pandy, 23 February 2011 - 09:20 PM.


#6 jaysmini30

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 09:11 PM

hi pall see if you can get your colour in HMG basecoat you dont need to laquer there paint only with 2pack you do just make sure you got good mixture to much hardner can cause problems with 2k

laquering over basecoat can cause problems iv seen paint job have a milky effect due to laquering basecoat you can read on loats of sites or next time you visit your local paint shop ask theyl give you all the infomation you need

#7 mini_clubman

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 10:06 PM

hi.

thanks for all the great info!

if have found this on ebay do you reckon this will do? i will need around 5l tho

Visit My Website

it say there no need for lacquering

thanks charlie

#8 andy pandy

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 10:46 PM

2.5 ltrs would be enough, as by the time its thinned down etc, 2k paint is hard n durable,you can get a finish from gun if compatent, at sprayin or you can wet flat n polish to a high shine,

#9 MiniLuke

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 10:59 PM

i will respray the car under a galizbo in my back garden and i am wondering the best paint for me?

Hi, i am no expert, but i thought using isocyanate-based paints was a real health hazard. Just thinking of the people around you etc, having to breathe the air in the nearby gardens etc... I am sure someone here can enlighten me.

#10 Shifty

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 10:59 PM

2k is nasty stuff and you'll need an air fed mask to paint it, I also hope you've got understanding neighbours as the fumes will be awful.

For a novice celluose is a better choice, much less toxic and you don't need an air fed mask.

Heres a nice little guide I found the other day on painting.

http://retrorides.pr...mp;thread=48784

#11 mini_clubman

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:47 PM

hi.

thanks for all the help!

What do you lot recommented 2pack or cellyfor the best results? i have heard and read that celly aint the best with keeping its colour?


Bearing in mind the mini will only get taken out on good days and is not getting used as an every day car so celly may be the best and easyiest root to do down i suppose

whilst i have got the car striped right down i would like to the job properly tho!!

what do you lot think??

The roof i will be painting black with the rest of the body work being kawasaki green including engine bay and inside. i forgot to mention in the earlyer post if that makes any difference on choices of paint

Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks Charlie

#12 Yoda

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:41 AM

Visit My Website


I have used this company for a lot of my painting supplies. Ring them and they are more than happy to help you. They will even write mix ratios on the tins for you if you ask nicely.

As Shifty says, go for cellulose, it gives a good finish and hardens well. the price may well be better for you, no hardeners to worry about and easy to mix and apply. the biggest advantage with it is that if you get minor runs in the paint, you can flat them out and polish back to a really high shine. also with cellulose, you mix at around 50/50 depending on your gun skills so you only need half the paint quantity and plenty of thinners. Go for a high quality fast dry thinner for working outside and make sure the painting area is nice and warm for a good finish before the dust and flies stick to the paint.

(Edit) forgot to mention, order everything you need by phone and you will get a great saving on cost of delivery and it usually arrives before noon the next day by courier. dont be afraid to ask for the discounted delivery if they dont offer it straight away. they are a great bunch of guys to deal with. they have even mixed special mild flip paints for me for my golf buggies in the past.

Edited by customcart, 24 February 2011 - 07:45 AM.


#13 midridge2

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 09:57 AM

ok, lets clear up a few facts first.

when you put your primer on there is no need to flat between coats, a waste of time, effort and money.
if you are using clear(laquer) over base you DO need to put laquer over.

if using solid colour you dont need laquer but some people do chose to put laquer over.

if using clear over base as said touch the masking to see if its just a bit tacky then spray your laquer on, it will stick better then, its recommended if you leave it too long to flat it down and paint it again then laquer it.

i have never heard of adding laquer to the last coat of 2k before so cannot comment.

if you use 2k paint outside be aware you could be prosecuted by the enviroment people.
you WILL need a air fed mask for 2k.

for the home user i recommend cellulose paint, its better and cheaper for a novice painter.

#14 jack_marshall

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:08 PM

Listen to this guy ^^^ everything he says is correct.

If your having a go yourself then use cellulose, 2k is not a good choice for a novice home painter in a gazebo in a residential area.

I also mix 50/50 solid and clear when painting solid. I find you get a better finish and polishing after seems easier.

#15 tommy13

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:19 PM

Listen to this guy ^^^ everything he says is correct.

If your having a go yourself then use cellulose, 2k is not a good choice for a novice home painter in a gazebo in a residential area.

I also mix 50/50 solid and clear when painting solid. I find you get a better finish and polishing after seems easier.

Seconded.
I've always thought 2k is the more durable paint, but with all the health and safety issues cellulose is better for home use.




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