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Pandora is dead.


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#31 ed4ran

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 07:03 PM

2+1

#32 ed4ran

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 07:04 PM

Gasket

#33 Sprocket

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 07:46 PM

Whats the verdict then???

#34 ed4ran

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 08:16 PM

I dont know,
doesnt look like too much damage,
maybe the head is just warn

#35 Pandora

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 08:18 PM

Well we are going to see if the valvues are wrong or worpped in amyway, then try and get it reground or done to a stage 2 or 3 this week.

#36 Sprocket

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:36 PM

Why are you looking at the head as being the problem???

#37 Pandora

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:39 PM

well we think the head and the gasket are the problem, pandora hasnt run very well, as you can see how much build up there is inside. And so to eliminate them both im going to get the work done.

#38 Sprocket

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:48 PM

Have you checked/ replaced everything that i suggested before deciding to pull the engine appart??????

Only asking as I think you'll find it as some thing else.

Did you do a compression test.

Are any of the valve springs bent??

#39 Pandora

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:48 PM

Tho its not the ecu or injection so i cant really think what else it could be?

#40 Pandora

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:49 PM

No there are no bent springs, fueling doesnt seem to be an issue either we have tried pretty much everything and we are stuck

#41 Pandora

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:52 PM

And i dont think the electrics are a problem either. Ed was thinking as we had the injection stuff off it might be easier to go to carb?

#42 Sprocket

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:57 PM

Just run through exactly what happened with every little detail how ever slight. How the engine runs from when its started cold and how it idles and so on.

Has the throttle been indexed correctly, has the fuel filter been chnged, has the oxygen sensor been replaced at any time. and is there any sort of cracks or splits in the vac capilary ends( these should be very dificult to pull off the fittings)

Run through everything just so its clear in my head. Short of me coming over to you with the diagnostic and going through everything myself, you will have to help me out a little. besides the engine is now in bits.

#43 Pandora

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 12:05 AM

Well before the 27th of decemeber it ran fine! And we drove from huntingdon to lincoln 1 hour and 40 mins in the cold when it snowed. The engine temp never got warm and then nearing lincoln the engine would loose power unless we backed off the accelerator and dropped down the gears as we came to round about etc. And when you put your foot back on the gas it would just go smooth and slow down.

Now in the mornings when you try and start it, its revs would be so low that it would just cut out instantly. And revs will bounce up and down. If you push the accelerator with ya foot it will increase and you can here little pops. And if you take your foot off it revs will drop and then bounce again. But when you come to a stop etc it will cut out, tho i have to slow futher bach and can most of the time keep it going.

#44 Pandora

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 12:07 AM

Can much be affected by heat loss, having to scoop would that break anything from the rush of cold air into the engine bay for long periods

#45 Sprocket

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 12:39 AM

Ok looking at the pictures it apears the engine is running rich and that is down to the ECU for one of many reasons as is the poping and banging.

If you have run the engine for a fair period and the temp guage reads closer to blue than mid(white line) then the ECU will be running in cold start and in which case open loop control and rich fueling. Causes of this Cold running could be a faulty thermostat stuck open or a faulty temp sender. There is also A matter of the Oxygen sensor not functioning correctly causing a sluggish reading leading to the ECU richening the fueling. Poping and banging is down to the ECU changing the advance incorrectly with what information the sensors give it, the biggest problem with this is fuel in the vac lines causing the manifold vacuum to lock up and as a result will cause backfire into the inlet when the throttle is pressed. There is also a possability that there is a blockage somewhere along the fuel return line causing over pressurising the injector check the entire length of the fuel line to see if the steel tube is squashed or the flexible lines are kinked in the engine bay and in the boot.

The heated manifold is still plumbed in? The PTC heater may be shorted, the throttle position sensor may be faulty, air temp sensor may be reading low temp . Any one or more sensor will cause the engine to run in ways it shouldn't.

Imperative that the induction system is 100% free of air leaks. Also the, if the exhaust manifold at the head is leaking it can actualy draw in air and cause the ECU to richen the fueling

Have you checked that the crank sensor is secure and that the plug connections are clean.

Trying to fix an injection system without a diagnostic is like trying to find a needle in a hay stack, it is possible, but will take a long time.




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