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My 1989 Mini City E Kad Rebuild


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#46 MJWarren

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 04:14 PM

Started on my Pedals today took apart the assembley and prepped them up ready for paint, ive etch primed them, this is the best primer EVER!

Also my Gearbox is now completely ready and shall be sent off to meet the engine.

My dad has made a new gear for the speedo as i will be having a digital one in the car.

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#47 MJWarren

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 03:16 PM

My new accelerator pedal has arrived, not much of an update really just waiting for things to come back to me now then its just a case of putting everything back together.


Also ordered a MED steel billet flywheel assembly and clutch as i cant run a standard one on the new engine.

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#48 MJWarren

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 10:04 PM

I WANT MY CAR BACK!!!!

#49 MJWarren

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 09:14 PM

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#50 mini.rich

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 10:08 PM

Also ordered a MED steel billet flywheel assembly and clutch as i cant run a standard one on the new engine.


Good looking project :) I'd like to see the engine O_O Are you going to run carbs or injection?? What spec clutch/flywheel have you gone for?

#51 MJWarren

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 03:36 PM

Im going to be running on webers 40 DCOEs, cant go anymore than 150bhp without a steel crank anyway so im not bothering with throttle bodies and the webers give enough power.

Gone for the MED Ultralight stage 2 pre verto and grey cover. What are you running bottom end wise?

ill upload pics in a bit

Cheers

#52 MJWarren

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 04:31 PM

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#53 benjy_18

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 05:22 PM

why cant you go anymore than 150 on a normal crank? im pretty sure theres guys running 200bhp turbo motors on a worked standard crank?

#54 MJWarren

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:14 PM

Well thats up to them mate, but in my opinion there mad. The crank will flex and destroy all there engine.

#55 benjy_18

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 10:35 PM

Actually dont the KAD motors rev to about 11k? In which ase your probably right to go for a steel crank. My bad forgot they revved so high

Projects looking good though, keep up the work

#56 MJWarren

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 04:19 PM

11,000rpm thats higher than a hayabusa bike engine! Some very high spec race engine produced by KAD might rev to 9500rpm but there very special.

The reason why you have a steel crank is because to get 150bhp you have to have harsher cams which means higher revving so the crank needs be stronger

A steel crank doesnt flex, bearing journals are harder and dont wear as much.

Turbo motors with Standard cranks with a figure of 200bhp may only be running that power for a good figure on a dyno.

I know force racings The done, 16 valve KAD turbo is 200bhp and has a worked standard crank but that only runs for 9 secs for a dray strip and goes out on trackdays. Andd i believe he has a lot of relabilty issues with it too which are mostly bottom end related.

Mini cranks are only 3 bearing anyway so have a tendacy to flex.

#57 Artful Dodger

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 04:54 PM

i think your forgetting we are dealing with a 1930's block design, 9 000 rpm is MASSIVE for an A series engine, let alone 11,000!!!

the valves would be bouncing more than people at a rave!

#58 MJWarren

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 05:09 PM

could be possible to achieve from a 998 16 valve kad engine though!

#59 benjy_18

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 05:14 PM

I know the 3 bearing design isn't the best, but it been proven for high power figures, and there are turbonmotors running 150+ driven daily. This is only my personal opinion but I don't see the need for a steel crank unless your going to be driving on the limit all day long. But maybe that's just me thinking with a budget in mid and not ******* to go for a crank worth more than most cars?

But I don't want to sound like I think your wrong or anything. Your engine will be awesome no doubt I was just mentioning another route.

Sorry if I sounded grouchy

#60 MJWarren

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 05:30 PM

if you can tell me where a mini crank has been proven for high bhp then ill happily admit that im wrong, but as soon as the crank starts flexing the engine wears out in double quick time and could fail catastrophically!

when you build an engine and you turn it over by hand everything is perfectly in line, the pistons run centrally in the bores the only real friction comes from the rings sliding in the bores. As soon as the crank starts to flex the rods are subjected to side load and as they cant move this wears the big end bearings and side pressure on the pistons this causes loads of friction and therefore wear. in some cases the flexing causes the centre main bearing bolts to work loose which is obviously bad news.

Need i say anymore?

You could probably chance this for a while but is this a risk you want to take.

If the mini crank is so good why has swift tune gone to all the trouble of designing a brand new one.




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