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[MrBounce]

I had left the fibreglass sheets to dry overnight - I have learned to my detriment never to rush working with this stuff! I laid each one over the hole where it was due to fit, and drew the shape of the hole on the back side using a Sharpie. The oscillating tool was put to good use again, and made short work of trimming the pieces to size. Once done, they were offered up to their respective new homes. More trimming was needed until each one fitted with minimal clearance. These were taped into place, and I flipped the headlining over before fibreglassing them into place from the back. They're now drying. 

 

Once I'd finished doing my fibreglassing thing, I completed a job that I've been meaning to put right for AGES. The driver's side indicator and sidelight combo was hanging down. Why? One of the Rivnuts had started to spin because there was a crack in the fibreglass. I had already repaired this from behind (and through the crack) using resin and chopped strand mat, but for some reason I had never completed it (probably because it has been F cold and/or raining). I also remembered that the bit where the Rivnut sat was a bit "bulgy", causing said Rivnut to sit at an angle. This was sorted by a brief tickle with the finger sander. In went the new Rivnut, and the light unit is sitting happily in its proper home. I should add that the bonus today was the front of my garage is a suntrap in the afternoon, so it was a lovely place to be. Hopefully this will continue!

 

Laying the new sheet over the top of the hole needing to be filled.

 

 

Sharpie marks all over the sheets

 

 

Pressed into place before fibreglassing

 

 

Like this!

 

 

Indicator/sidelight unit now in place. Picture makes it look wonky, but it's fine.

 

 

15 degrees! A welcome change!

 

[MrBounce]

Well, it's about time that I finished off the headlining. First up was to drill some holes in the newly added fibreglass sections to suit the visors. This was pretty straightforward, as I used the spreader plates for templates. Then I needed to put the recesses in for the mounts towards the middle of the car. Out came my old friend the multitool. I measured up, made appropriate marks and cut some holes. Then it was simply a case of putting the recesses in place, taping everything up and fibreglassing them into place. Of course, this being fibreglassing, it takes FAR longer than it does to write it down - even with a "hot mix" it takes a few hours to dry off properly.

 

Once everything had dried off, I flipped the headlining over and brushed some resin over the edges of all the amended bit, to give it a smoother appearance, before sanding it a bit smoother, and giving it a quick coat of black. This is not entirely necessary, as I will be covering the headlining with material; however, I wanted to get more of an idea how it looked. I just need to figure out how best to sort the spreader plates; my initial thoughts of Rivnuts doesn't work as the nut tries to expand into the fibreglass, which isn't exactly helpful. I shall revisit this. Possibly welded nuts, but I might be able to sort something else. Not sure yet.

 

Finally, I've sorted the engine number rivets. My HSS drill bits did not want to know, barely making a mark in the hardened steel of the remains of the ones left there by the machine shop. However, a few quid on Amazon saw a Cobalt drill bit arrive, which, after some effort, made holes deep enough for said rivets. The engine number plate looks FAR better than my somewhat poor efforts to stamp it!

 

Holes drilled in new fibreglass.

 

 

Marked for cutting

 

 

Taped up...

 

 

...and glassed in from the back

 

 

A drizzle of resin to smooth out any ridges

 

 

Test fit of the visors - LOVELY

 

 

A splash of paint just for the hell of it

 

 

And engine number plate now riveted in place.

 

[MrBounce]

There are 2 things which will need to be sorted to finish off the headlining, aside from covering and fitting it of course. The first is the interior light; I've already opened up an appropriately-sized hole for this, and I need to sort the wiring and door buttons for it, and as I need to speak to Tink about this, it will be left for a bit. The other one is a high-level brake light. This is not an easy thing to fit to a rear screen on the Midas, as the rake of the hatch glass is incredibly shallow. What I needed was something that could hinge.

 

Rewind a few weeks, and I was helping Tink clear out stuff from his garage loft. We'd sorted 4 piles: keep, dump, sell, me! There just happened to be a hinged high-level LED brake light. First thing I did, having dragged it out of the bag of booty from Tink's garage was to test it. Everything worked perfectly - excellent. The light only had 2 short bits of wire on it, which had pin terminals. I don't have pin terminals, so I spent a fiddly few minutes removing them - cutting off the heatshrink with a razor blade before carefully bending back the crimps. Thankfully it wasn't soldered, as this would have made things a bit more awkward. I cut positive and negative wires to size and have soldered them to the stubs of wire on the unit. These have then been covered with the correctly-sized heatshrink tubing, and will be piggy-backed to the brake lights. 

 

Finally I needed to mount it to the headlining itself. There was one hole drilled in the plinth (slightly off centre), so I repeated this on the other side, and also made a hole for the cables to pass through. Once I'd established the centre point of the headlining, I repeated these holes through it. I screwed it into place, and it sits beautifully. I'll take it off again when I cover the headlining. 

 

Hinged LED light from Tink's "stash". Now mine - mwahahaha!

 

 

Wires extended after carefully removing the pin connectors and doing some soldering.

 

 

And mounted to the headlining. At least for now...

 

[MrBounce]

One of the problems I have with some of the work I do on cars is I don't check things well enough. I'd set the mounting points of the visors at points where they didn't line up, but I then didn't properly check this at the time. As a result the inner mounts were not in the right place and the bar on the visor would not clip into place. Once I had figured out my idiocy, I got out the multi-tool and cut bits out until it would work. Then I fibreglassed it all back together. Of course, this sounds really simple when typed out like this. But of course, when you factor in cutting things out, checking the fit would ACTUALLY work, trimming, trimming other bits and then glassing it all back together, before then waiting for it to dry, then sanding and filling to make it usable, it actually took a couple of days. 

 

Whilst waiting for things to dry, I spent some time clearing up the garage as there were tools left out (a pet hate of mine - you could tell I was annoyed about things not lining up!), as well as a whole load of things on the floor, bits of fibreglass matting everywhere, spilt resin on the floor tiles (when dry it peels off, thankfully). I also painted the lugs that hold the rear hatch struts in place - these double up as helping keep the headlining in place (as well as various screws). Once I did the trial fit with the headlining in place, there's a minor issue which won't take too long to sort. There's a raised ridge on the inside of the roof of the car. The newly moved visor mountings JUST foul this, so I will need to make some minor clearance grooves. Shouldn't take too long with the Powerfile. 

 

Finally, I grabbed the door lock and put it in place so I don't lose it. I will need to figure out how to attach it correctly, as it's one of the few items I didn't take pictures of when I took the car apart. That would be previous me being unhelpful again! 

 

Yeah that looks a bit out, doesn't it...

 

 

Moved and lined up so it will actually work.

 

 

Glassed in place before filling 

 

 

Fitting nicely! 

 

 

A minor bit of clearance needed here

 

 

Door lock in place awaiting connection to the rest of the apparatus

 

[MrBounce]

Isn't it funny, and ever-so-slightly annoying, when you go to do something that should take no more than 10-15 minutes to sort, and it ends up taking WAY more time than expected? Yup, the orange plastic box of delights continues to irritate and amuse in not-so-equal measures... Let me regale you with a tale of simplicity that became an afternoon's unexpected work, followed by something that ACTUALLY went right!

 

So, the idea was to piggy back the high-level brake light off the spades for both the brake feed and the earth leads already on the driver's side rear light. Sounds simple enough, right? Should be. However, the earth already had a piggy back connector on it - to increase this to 2 piggy backs would be a bit daft, as well as causing unnecessary clearance issues (remember, this is a tiny car, so space is at a premium, and every tiny little bit helps). The easiest way to sort this was to combine the earth wire with the earth for the foglight, and adding a spade to this, thus negating the need for an additional piggy back. Easy, right? This is a 1981 Midas - of course it wasn't. When I cut the connector off the main earth wire, and stripped the insulation off, there sat the familiar sight of corroded wire. "No problem!" I thought. "I'll just go back a bit further until it's normal". Yeah...about that. I had to take it the entire way back to the other side of the car. There was a join of 45-year old solder. I've cut this out and have redone this with new wire, as well as properly heatshrinking any exposed wires and fresh solder. It was massively irritating considering it should have been a straightforward job. Plus I have a pulled chest muscle, so it also hurt! 

 

Onto other, more straightforward things, I have completed the headlining trial fit. I used the Powerfile of dust production to ensure there was plenty of clearance for the new sun visor mounts, before doing some careful trimming to the headlining itself, to make everything fit as it should. There still needs to be enough clearance to allow the sunroof fixings to fit as well as the radio ariel wires to transfer down to the head unit. I spent some time measuring where the mounting screws needed to be, before getting out the drill and chucking some screws to fit. Really chuffed that this bit is now done. All I need to do is to cover it with some of the headlining material from Tink's stash that I have liberated.

 

The bane of my Midas life - corroded wires... This is now in the bin. There's no pictures of the finished job because I was annoyed and the boot is still full of discarded loom tape that I couldn't be bothered to clear up.

 

 

Mounted at the back (there are also screws to fit as well - this is loosely fitted)

 

 

And in place before getting "new clothes".

 

[MrBounce]

The headlining is now covered. I did get it oh-so slightly out (by about a centimetre) which has left a tiny wedge at the back uncovered; however, this will mostly be obscured by the hatch seal and I can add a little wedge so you won't see it unless you really look for it. Bit of a pain, but I don't have enough of this material to re-do it. Still, I am going to blame the wind and the fact that I did it by myself. What I WAS pleased about is that there were not any major creases, and buying a shedload of clips several months ago was obviously an inspired idea! 

 

Whilst it was drying outside, I popped in and realised that one of the wooden blocks that the headlining screws to at the back had fallen off! 45-year old glue clearly isn't what it once was. Two minutes with some epoxy resin and some clamps should see that in place for a few more years yet... I will deal with trimming the edges of the headlining and sticking it to the underside once I get more glue.

 

Headlining ready to go on

 

 

And clipped in place

 

 

Nuts - got it slightly out...

 

 

45 year-old glue failed. Who'd have thought it!

 

 

Clamped in place with new stuff. That'll stay there for a while...

 

[MrBounce]

Time for another really quick update: I took the headlining outside to cut off the excess material as there was a fair bit. This took some time, but at the end of it all I was left with a satisfying pile of offcuts and clips. I still don't have any glue, so sorting the underside will have to wait until the glue arrives. Hopefully this will be before any forecast rain ruins the party, as it's difficult to spray glue on to something this size when there's a car in the garage. I also spent a few minutes with a spike making holes for where all the screws will end up going. And finally, I simply HAD to see what the interior light looked like...

 

Before anything was removed.

Trimmed, and clips removed.

Various holes punched...

And the interior light, looking at home.

[MrBounce]

It does make me we giggle that the latest definition of "delivered" is actually closer to "Your driver has dumped this somewhere in the vicinity of your front door because it doesn't fit through the letter box". I was actually in the garage at the time, so didn't hear the doorbell. Still, the glue had arrived, which meant it was time to get sticky with it. I actually ended up doing this in 2 stages because I didn't have enough clips to do everything, even with an additional 20 arriving that day. So I did the short back and sides first, finishing off with the front (fringe?) and sunroof cutout. 

 

Once dried, I got my scalpel set out and sorted clearance for the varies holes. I then discovered an issue with mounting the high-level brake light. The M4 bolts I had in stock were too short (only 8mm), and didn't reach the Rivnuts. So I walloped them out and used M5s instead. It all fits together rather nicely. 

 

So, am I pleased with my trimming? Mostly. And nobody's really going to notice the bad bits, unless they're hyper-critical (as I am of myself), as they'll be mostly hidden, or out of view. Of course, this means that I will now be able to get back on with the driver's door. Which I am not entirely looking forward to...

 

Glue and clips - time to do a LOT of this.

 

 

Back end first

 

 

And then the front and sunroof cutout

 

 

And everything in place

 

 

Also a shot from the front

 

 

And on top of the car. I need to sort the aerial and any soundproofing before fitting it.

 

[MrBounce]

So I mentioned previously that I was not particularly looking forward to building up the driver's door. But why? Well, when I took the car apart, the driver's door (which is the only one with a key-operated lock) has a different set-up with regard to the mechanism. It is also the only part on this car that I did not take any detailed photographs of when dismantling it. Most of the time I can figure things out, but when I have only done something once, and that was about a decade ago, I generally like to have some sort of guide for assistance. As it was, this was not available, so I had to "go it alone". 

 

First up was the driver's lock mechanism. As the doors need to be built up in a very specific order, the lock mechanism has to be first. And this was the specific piece that I had no photographs of. I had to figure out whichever way round everything went, and this is usually where I get into difficulty, as I sometimes go off the beaten track when it comes to logic. "Refitting is the opposite of removal" said Mr Haynes. Which is great, unless it's been several thousand days since you took it apart. Or is it? I have surprised myself here - apart from a misaligned spring on the first attempt, everything went together perfectly. It blooming well works too! 

 

Next up was pop the glass into the frame - this already had the new flocked channels in place, so it was straightforward with a bit of silicon spray. I then built up the winder mechanism, which included getting out the rivet gun to attach the gubbins to the door plate. Once this was sorted, I had to loop the door opening cable to the latch. This took a bit of doing. There's not a lot of room there, and necessitated unscrewing the latch completely so I could slide the cable into place. 

 

Finally, the frame plus the glass has to be carefully slid into place. Once done, out came the rivet gun again - time to attach the frame to the door plate and the plate to the door itself. I had to use a couple of bigger rivets here due to elongated holes. It doesn't look great, but it'll be covered and it is definitely solid! Finally, I installed the remaining screws to ensure the frame was attached securely to the door. It was all much easier than expected, which was a nice surprise.

 

The only downside is that the winder cradle keeps popping off - I assume the rubber will need some sort of glue?

 

Lock mechanism went in pretty easily! Chuffed!

 

 

Glass in the frame, ready to fit.

 

 

Winder mechanism riveted to the door plate

 

 

Cable looped around the latch mechanism, and door frame slid into place

 

 

And everything bolted together.

 

[MrBounce]

Just a quickie (ooh-err!). I was fed up with the wires dangling down in the back end of the car after replacing the earth wire I had to cut out. So I spent a few minutes re-taping the loom - I'd run out of yellow tape which the back loom had from the factory, so blue it was! I also got some P clips, and made sure it was all secured in place. This will all be covered anyway, but it's nice to have it all nicely buttoned up.

 

Looks a lot tidier now!

 

[MrBounce]

I was having issues with the window cradle popping off on the driver's door (strangely, not on the passenger door - c'est la vie, I guess). As everything goes into the door in a very specific order, and I'd have to drill rivets to get it out, I decided on a "try a bit of brute force" first. I put the window cradle in the vice, and gave it JUST enough of a squeeze to give it a bit more grip. I then reinstalled it and gave the cradle a few hefty taps with the rawhide mallet. It gripped nicely and didn't pop off at all. After a good 5 minutes of testing it up and down, it can now stay there... 

 

There were 2 things left to do on the doors - put the door cards back on and also to add the mirrors. As I want to look at different ways to attach the mirror plinths (the Midas way is a bit rubbish and there's room for improvement), on went the door cards. I can in theory put them on myself, but it's MUCH easier with a glamourous assistant. So Shaun or Tink or Mrs Bounce will be called into action at some point to assist. Tink has also hinted that he might be available in the next week or to button up the rest of the electrics. Oooh! 

 

As there's doors to put on, why not the hatch as well? I've located all the mounts for the hinges and the hatch handle assembly in the box where I'd actually marked them as being in, so I've given them a fresh coat of satin black as they were starting to look a bit tired. The car will need to come out of the garage to get the hatch glass down from the rafters anyway. I expect it will need a bit of a clean... 

 

Winder cradle tightened and working far better

 

 

Driver's door buttoned up

 

 

And passenger door too. At least when they're on there'll be plenty of space in the garage again!

 

 

Hatch hinge mounting bits and handle having been given a fresh coat of satin black

 

[MrBounce]

Just another quick update as I have been tidying up in the garage. There was one other thing that I had forgotten about that involved completion of the doors: the window winder spacers. I have lost mine. I will probably find them in a box in 3 years' time, but for now, they are MIA. As these items are Mk1 Ford Fiesta, they are almost unobtanium, even for those who 3D print stuff. And even if I was able to find some, there's the added fun of "Old Ford Tax", which means they'd be several times the price of a BL equivalent, even if they could be found. So I went down the route of making something functional, if not necessarily totally accurate. I had previously made a pair of resin roundels, which I'd created by making a mold from a slice of exhaust pipe the same diameter as the winder, and some card. I am nothing if not resourceful! I hadn't drilled them yet, so I got the calipers out and measured the size of both the inner and outer diameters of the winder post. Once I'd drilled the holes, I had to get the garage Henry Hoover out and clear up the substantial amount of dust and plastic swarf I'd created, which was a LOT. The spacers have been given a coat of textured paint. The spacers are not perfect - there's a couple of little nicks and marks, which really show up in the photos, but they're actually barely noticeable. As they'll mostly be behind stuff, I am not going to go made on them - it's a bit too much effort.

 

Spacer in place, fitting nicely

 

 

And now in paint

 

[MrBounce]

Time for a bit of a bumper update, yet I have not actually done THAT much - just a few minor things which seem to take time. As I have completed and covered the headlining, I figured I may as well move on to the panel that goes underneath where the hatch sits. This was next to my big red cabinet and was absolutely filthy. After a good wipe down, I went to line it up in the car to make sure that I could mount it easily to the wooden blocks which were glued to the underside of where the hatch sits. Except they weren't there. I vaguely remember these being so rotten and utterly knackered, they pretty much fell apart when I was stripping the car. Obviously my mental note I left myself was not stored very well! Unfortunately there were still the remains of the wood and the "glue" which looked strangely like body filler. Whatever it was, it was rock hard. Out came the BIG chisel, and I was able to knock most of it off, before finishing it off with a flap disc on the grinder. Once I'd hoovered up the dust storm (boy am I glad I did this work outside), I glued two new pieces of wood in place. I also took time to give the winder winder handles a fresh coat of textured paint whilst the glue was drying.

 

I don't have quite enough material to cover this panel in one go, so I dug out the windscreen pillar cover panels. They were similarly dirty and also had overspray on them. However, this did not matter, as they were being covered anyway. After a wipe down, I cut the material to size then took it all outside into the blazing sunshine as it was 24 degrees. Lovely. A generous coat of spray-on contact adhesive later and out came the clips. They'll be left on overnight until they're properly dry.

 

Finally, I decided that I may as well mount the mirrors. I recall the plinths for these just being held on with wood screws, which I hated (the mirrors mount to the plinths with bolts into Rivnuts from behind). However, one of the bolts was not easily reachable from the inside, so I drilled an access hole through the window frame. I decided to redo the plinth mountings using 2 Rivnuts, so I carefully measured up before drilling and inserting as appropriate. The buttoning up process was actually easier than expected, thanks to  it all being nicely aligned. The mirrors look good, something I've been looking forward to seeing for a while, especially as the Midas only had one when I bought it. Getting that second one from France about 10 years ago was a GOOD idea. I think the likelihood for finding another today would be significantly more difficult.

 

Panel for under the hatch after being cleaned

 

 

What was left of the "glue" and wood. Plus the sun!

 

 

Chiseled off remains

 

 

Replacement wood...

 

 

...and glued into place

 

 

Winders after a fresh coat of paint

 

 

Windscreen pillar cover panels found and wiped down (still a bit dirty)

 

 

Cut to size and awaiting glue

 

 

And all stuck and clamped

 

 

New holes drilled to access mounting for the mirror

 

 

Plinth mounted on to Rivnuts which have been put into the door

 

 

And mirror mounted on to the door

 

 

A view of the whole thing...

 

 

And driver's door also completed

 

[MrBounce]

Well, it's just been Easter, so let's talk hatching. Or, in this case, hatch glass. Shaun came over yesterday and assisted me with getting the rear hatch glass down from the rafters. It IS a job I could have done by myself, but not without significant risk to the glass and/or myself. Given that the Midas rear hatch was made for just them, and Midas hasn't been around for decades, the likelihood of getting another was between slim and none, and Slim's on a plane to the Caribbean. 

 

One thing I have established is that when you spray a car, no matter how well you THINK you've covered everything, you haven't. Not only was the hatch glass incredibly dirty, it also had orange overspray on it. Where on Earth could that have come from? (hides face in an "It wasn't me guv" kind of way). First thing's first - get it cleaned. Apologies for the lack of photos here - some idiot hadn't put the memory card back in the camera, so although I took about 5 photos, they did not save anywhere. Because that idiot was me... After washing off several years' worth of grime, which turned the water a hideous shade of grey-brown, Shaun and I set about removing the overspray with blades. This took us the best part of hour, but it was worth it. Although the hatch had some scratches, as you'd expect from a 44 year old piece of glass, it looked in pretty good nick. After giving it a full wipe down with glass cleaner, it was ready to be used.

I suddenly realised that I had not painted the other circular mounts which attach the glass to the hatch struts and hinges, so I found them in the box where I thought they were, rubbed them down and gave them a coat of primer and satin black. I also needed new rubber "gaskets", as I only had 2 - the others had disintegrated. Using the old ones as a template, I made six more from my sheet of rubber. They aren't perfect, but they're underneath mounts, will do the job required, and are in no way aesthetic, so I am happy with that!

 

I dove into my bag of seals and retrieved the hatch seal, all 2.9 metres of it. I carefully pressed this into place on the lip, and cut it to fit (it was about 5 cm too long). Next up was fitting th hatch. I quickly realised that the hinges, which were already on the car, would need to be taken off again and attached to the glass - it would be nigh-on impossible for me to fit them otherwise, as I was on my own by then. Lining the hinges back up to fit back to the bodyshell was surprisingly easy, even for someone like me who seems to be able to easily mess things up! I left the bolts a bit loose so I could lines the hatch up correctly. It wasn't far out, but it did need a little bit of shuffling over. 

 

Last thing was the handle and lock mechanism. Again, this was relatively easy to fit, at least until I tried to do the bolt up on the back of the lock barrel. Yup, the thread decided to strip. You couldn't make this up! I am nothing if not resourceful, so I carefully drilled it out to 4.5mm before running an M5 tap down, and cutting a M5 bolt down to suit. This has worked beautifully. The lock mechanism is now fitted, but because the hatch seal is so new, I need it to settle before attempting to close it fully. It does not line up yet, but I am pretty certain that this will come with time! 

 

Bald man hiding behind reflective glass

 

 

Circular mounts painted

 

 

Rubber gaskets being created

 

 

And how they came out. A bit shonky, but functional all the same

 

 

2.9 metre seal (claps flippers)

 

 

Fitted to car and trimmed to size

 

 

Gah! Stripped thread! Nuts!

 

 

Look! Glass has been fitted!

 

[MrBounce]

I had a spare couple of hours this afternoon; Although the garage isn't in a terrible state, there are two fully built-up doors in there. I am constantly aware of them and I am worried that at some point I will drop something on them and damage them, because I am clumsy. There are also 2 big holes where they fit - on the car. So I took the decision to attempt fitment on my own. The doors are the most heavy items in the world, but they're bleeping awkward, especially if you're trying to hold them in place whilst attempting to do up bolts. It isn't easy. My first thought was to use my wash bucket; this was too tall by about an inch, which was somewhat irritating - at first glance it looked perfect. However, there was something perfect for the job sitting in the garage: 2 of my Cosmic alloys were almost the right height, and a much more stable platform than a plastic bucket. The difference in height was sorted by adding a couple of flat bits of wood. Having popped the bolts through the hinges, it was time to see if I could actually do this by myself.

 

I lifted the driver's door on to my makeshift step; to my surprise, it was the perfect size, and the bolt holes in the body shell wre no more than a couple of millimetres out. The bolts mainly went straight through. Getting penny washers, lock washers and nuts on was more of a challenge. I did, however, remember to cut down one of the washers as a full one wouldn't fit. I recalled taking the old one out many years ago. I shall forever be grateful for my cordless ratchet which was a birthday present this year. It made short work of getting a couple of bolts top and bottom tightened up - this meant that I could stop holding the door and sort the rest of them with a spanner and the aforementioned ratchet, without having to balance the door anymore.

 

Once the door was hanging, I got the hide mallet out to gently knock the door seal into place, before cutting it to fit. Like the hatch seal, there were a few centimetres too many, which is a much better situation than it being too short! The door just catches on the door jamb, so this will need some adjustment before I attempt to fit it properly. Also, the striker plate needs adjusting as it's a little bit too high up and the latch won't properly engage with it. A bit of trial and error should have that sorted, but I couldn't finish this, as the light was starting to fade. So I'll have another crack at this soon. 

 

Door in the garage was getting in the way

 

 

Bucket was too tall (I did turn it over for better stability)

 

 

Wheels and wood - perhaps not obvious, but it really worked well!

 

 

Well this seems to fit rather well (it doesn't, but it will...)

 

 

Penny washer modified to make it fit

 

 

And door seal fitted