
No Oil Pressure On New Build
#16
Posted 07 August 2011 - 09:50 PM
#17
Posted 07 August 2011 - 09:55 PM
1. Remove the engine and strip it all down to find out why, changing the oil pump and re-priming with engine assembly lube
or
2. Put the plugs in, start the engine and run it at no more than 1000 rpm for no more than 10 seconds. Then, if the pressure comes up immediately it's OK and if not, go to option 1.
#18
Posted 08 August 2011 - 09:22 AM
If you still can't get pressure you have 2 options.
1. Remove the engine and strip it all down to find out why, changing the oil pump and re-priming with engine assembly lube
or
2. Put the plugs in, start the engine and run it at no more than 1000 rpm for no more than 10 seconds. Then, if the pressure comes up immediately it's OK and if not, go to option 1.
this is what I feared!!
cheers guys!
#19
Posted 08 August 2011 - 10:31 AM
I have a new rebuilt 1275 engine also
Waiting on a new oil pressure relief valve to see if that is anything to do with the low pressure. I have gone for the ball option
Will let you know what happens Matey
#20
Posted 08 August 2011 - 11:40 AM
Sorry to hear about your oil pressure problem.
I've rebuilt a good few mini engines in my time but the last had be completely stumped as I had had exactly the same problem as you!
Might be a long shot but have you had the gearbox replaced or rebuilt? On my engine, after several puzzling days of exhausting things like the oil pump, pressure relief valve etc, I turned my attention to the gearbox.
The gearbox was a 2000 MPi gearbox which had never been fitted to a car before and I had change the FD over.
Anyway, what I found in the end was the oil pick-up pipe flange gaskets (inside and outside the gearbox) where not sealing properly allowing the pump to suck in air and a little oil only!
This gave me no, intermittent and some oil pressure but the oil in the filter was full of tiny air bubbles!
Unfortunately the engine and gearbox had to seperate to cure the problem, and indeed two new gaskets and a little sealant did the trick, after grinding the pick-up pipe sealing flanges flat!
I'm glad to say that when it was all back together I got oil pressure immediately....this is just a thought as I had run out of other ideas too!
Cheers,
Steve.
#21
Posted 08 August 2011 - 04:13 PM
The oil transfer hose appears to be some kind oil black hole..
If you crank the engine with the transfer feed disconnected, there is loads of oil coming out of the where the banjo connection should be, however upon putting the feed pipe back on it takes AAAGGEES for oil to start coming out of it - the filter feed end, I think maybe I should of used a 90 degree connection instead of a straight connector, so I get gravity assisting the oil, as at the moment it has to go quite a way up (DIY - feed pipe).
Still it is eventually spurting oil through, so it does work.
Also I'm not 100% sure, and maybe I'm being paranoid or its the noise of a starter motor being cranked over constantly...but there is a knocking.
I can't find the bullet relief thing either, which is just annoying me!
Edited by liirge, 08 August 2011 - 04:17 PM.
#22
Posted 08 August 2011 - 04:59 PM
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Edited by liirge, 08 August 2011 - 04:59 PM.
#23
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:04 PM
#24
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:44 PM
I see youve got the pressure switch on there too, its worth checking to see if that switches with an ohm meter, Ive been fooled by a "known good " gauge before.
also if you wang the oil pump bolts up too tight is can knacker the oil pump gasket they literally just need nipping up, espeially the thin pattern ones, I always use the genuine ones, nice thick black things.
Another thing Ive seen which i thought was BRILLIANT, was an engine builder that fitted a tee peice in the oil transfer pipe (soldered into a std steel one) which connected to an electric oil pump. he's fill the engine via this while turning the engine over with a rachet.
#25
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:47 PM
at least its not in the car,
I see youve got the pressure switch on there too, its worth checking to see if that switches with an ohm meter, Ive been fooled by a "known good " gauge before.
also if you wang the oil pump bolts up too tight is can knacker the oil pump gasket they literally just need nipping up, espeially the thin pattern ones, I always use the genuine ones, nice thick black things.
Another thing Ive seen which i thought was BRILLIANT, was an engine builder that fitted a tee peice in the oil transfer pipe (soldered into a std steel one) which connected to an electric oil pump. he's fill the engine via this while turning the engine over with a rachet.
If the oil pump was knackered surely I wouldn't get a good flow coming out of where the banjo connection should be..squirting it like an inch into the air
Edited by liirge, 08 August 2011 - 05:47 PM.
#27
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:53 PM
Oh god.... You maybe rightAre you sure that's rotating the correct way. I thought the engine rotated clockwise from the timing cover end? And I am sure the flywheel is going clockwise.
am I going mad?????? or is the battery possible connected the wrong way around???Linky
#28
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:55 PM
#29
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:57 PM
So, is it rotating the wrong way?That was an eBay NOS starter motor, it's apparently for a different application as the cables are on correctly..
#30
Posted 08 August 2011 - 05:57 PM
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